Gen 1 & Gen 2 gauges, instead of lights???

[Drock]

I had an idea that I didn't see covered here. Would it be possible to replace the Gen#1 & #2 lights with ah pair of gauges? I'm getting my ducks in ah row to install my Banks turbo and I realized I'm going to have ah mess of random gauges, especially if I find ah tach I like. I thought If I could replace the lights with gauges I could eliminate the stock single volt gauge.

 

[dmetalmiki]

The single volt gauge is abattery indicator. And you could if you wish install an ampmeter for each alternator.

 

[Warthog]

There is no easy way to just simple replace the lights with gauges.

You can do it but is really involved.

 

[Westech]

I don't know if you really could. Power needs to flow in both directions through the light bulbs. It really is part of the charging system and not just a dummy light.
Just add s 12v gauge next to the stock one. That is what i did.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Another option is to go digital. Stack a couple of these, one above the other, next to the existing voltmeter, and use the old voltmeter's cutout for another gauge. Leave the idiot lights alone.

I plan to do this one of these days. I'll look for a red gauge, though, for the sake of night vision. Blue is terrible for night vision.

But then, if you dare put a digital gauge in one of these old classics, you'll be guilty of sacrilege and will be asked to reflect and take stock of yourself and consider what you are doing.


EDIT: Putting the gauge details here, as links sometimes go bad.

SMAKN® Blue 0.28" Mini 2 Wire DC Voltmeter 2.50~30v Digital Display Voltmeter Gauge LED Voltage Detector

Product Description
Cutting size:23.5mm x 10mm
Mounting holes distance:29mm
Measuring rangeC 2.50~30V Two-wire access
Measurement precision:0.01V(3-10V); 0.1V (10-30V)
Refresh Rate?about 500mS/times
Display:Three 0.28 " LED digital tube
Display Color:blue
Operating Temperature:-10 °c ~ +65 °c
Power supply same Source,self-Power
Current consumption: generally 5-15mA, less than 20mA
Reversal protection:Have
Wiring: Red: Power Supply +,Measure Voltage +,(2.50~ 30V DC)
Black: Power Supply -, Measure Voltage -
If measure 10V below, accurate to 0.01V,display x.xx
If measure 10V or more,accurate to 0.1V,display xx.x

 

[richingalveston]

civy gauges customized

your best option is to get a civy gauge cluster with the gauges. I did this and moved the volt gauge to the upper left hole in the dash. The gas gauge is the lower right hole. temp gauge and oil pressure are in the other two holes. I put a tach in the big spot to the right of the speedometer. I have a trans controller for the 4l80e located where the 24V gauge was.

I tied the idiot light together and any one of them will light the check engine light in the bottom of the speedometer. 4x4 light is also in the speedometer.
Gen one and two lights were moved to the bottom of the tach.

I used red LED's and although the do not dim, the do not need to. The red is easy on the eyes.

I plan to add a turbo and will have to add boost, and exhaust temp gauge and I have not decided where to put them. I have a switch panel where the radio location is and I may move this to add the gauges in this location.
the switches can be moved to their own box which I will probably locate under the ash tray.

The most difficult part is identifying all of the wiring and each wire needs to be connected individually. No more plug in the back of the cluster.

You can get all of the gauges for the factor dash at LMC or other places.
My dash still looks factory.

 

[acesneights1]

I don't know if you really could. Power needs to flow in both directions through the light bulbs. It really is part of the charging system and not just a dummy light.
Just add s 12v gauge next to the stock one. That is what i did. View attachment 541012

This/\
I actually had gen 2 not charging because the circuit board on the instrument cluster had burned and the light was not in the loop.

 

[Drock]

your best option is to get a civy gauge cluster with the gauges. I did this and moved the volt gauge to the upper left hole in the dash. The gas gauge is the lower right hole. temp gauge and oil pressure are in the other two holes. I put a tach in the big spot to the right of the speedometer. I have a trans controller for the 4l80e located where the 24V gauge was.

I tied the idiot light together and any one of them will light the check engine light in the bottom of the speedometer. 4x4 light is also in the speedometer.
Gen one and two lights were moved to the bottom of the tach.

I used red LED's and although the do not dim, the do not need to. The red is easy on the eyes.

I plan to add a turbo and will have to add boost, and exhaust temp gauge and I have not decided where to put them. I have a switch panel where the radio location is and I may move this to add the gauges in this location.
the switches can be moved to their own box which I will probably locate under the ash tray.

The most difficult part is identifying all of the wiring and each wire needs to be connected individually. No more plug in the back of the cluster.

You can get all of the gauges for the factor dash at LMC or other places.
My dash still looks factory.

I like this! what tach did you use?

 

[richingalveston]

purchased the tach from lmc, I use a Dakota digital ds1 module for an alternator/tach interface. Purchased the small gas gauge also from lmc. The other gauges came with the civy cluster I retrieved from a parts suburban.