drpyloo
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Thank You very much for the information. I will be doing the very same thing in about a month and was somewhat nervous about doing it without reference. Subscribed.
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M35A2 Front axle and brake service.
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wilfreeman
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Same here - I hope to be doing the same thing in a couple of weeks + brakes.
drpyloo
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It's a shame we are not closer we could get together and tackle both rigs at one time. You know what they say; two minds are better than one.
wilfreeman
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Unfortunately there are only a few deuce owners (that I know of) close around me. We (my Brother and I) are quickly learning how to work on them as we are bobbing her. I have a good bit of experience working on older Jeeps, and the deuce front axle is not so different - just ALOT bigger!, so hopefully it will go smoothly. I will be sealing up the rear axle and doing the brake lines, hoses and wheel cylinders during the same work session also.
Yeah, I'm sure the first side will be a pain, but the other side will be fairly enjoyable since I will know what I am doing by then. If we had 2 trucks to do, the 2nd one would be a piece of cake!
MRAP DREAM GIRL
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This will be the typical girl question, can anyone point to the tm and section that covers how to do this by the book?
blisters13
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TM9-2320-361-20 Chapter 8 (and possibly TM9-2320-209-34-2-1 Charper 12) cover everything with the brakes pretty well. For TM9-2320-361-20, start on page 8-18 (or page 592 in Adobe Reader).
No, that's not a "girl" question- it's a normal newbie question (don't sweat it).
There will be a few large tools you will need, and I personally STRONGLY recommend having the correct 8-point hub nut socket. Using a hammer and chisel to tighten hub nuts is wrong.
By the way, I think the OP's posts are better than the book in how he illustrates in color what's going on with real-life descriptions; just my
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No, that's not a "girl" question- it's a normal newbie question (don't sweat it).
There will be a few large tools you will need, and I personally STRONGLY recommend having the correct 8-point hub nut socket. Using a hammer and chisel to tighten hub nuts is wrong.
By the way, I think the OP's posts are better than the book in how he illustrates in color what's going on with real-life descriptions; just my
.
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nchittendon
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Awesome thread. Thank you!
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How does the grease get into the Ujoint and what keep it from slinging off when the axle comes up to speed. I see a little grease on the axle to spindle bushing ride area but did you put some more grease into the backside of the spindle before you installed it?
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welldigger
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My truck has sealed u joints in the front axles. So packing the knuckle full of grease does nothing with this style axle. I also slather plenty of grease on the thrust surfaces of the u joint and all over the short shaft. Then I push a big wad into the backside of the spindle before I slide it on. What keeps it all in place? Nothing really.
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Correct there is no reason to pack any grease in the knuckle of the U joint type of connection. Only the ball and sockett older axles need it.
Also a little tec tip inless you realy want to clean and paint the knuckle there is no reason to drop the tie rod off the knuckles. Leave it on both knuckles and just set the knuckle on a towel or something so you don't dammage the stud threads that hold on the spindle while you remove the outher side.
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Great right up thanks a lot. Question I have is shouldn't there be some kind of washer or spacer between the second axel nut and the bearing? I had my passenger side wheel bearing seize up and upon removal I found the second axel nut striped out and also damaged the spindle threads, like the bearing upon detonation sucked the nut in to itself. It seems that someone over tightened that load nut or a lack of maintenance. So wouldn't a spacer eliminate this issue from ever happening again
welldigger
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There is a lock washer with tabs you fold over that goes in between the 2 spindle nuts.
yes but between the bearing and the second nut not between the 2 nuts
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No there is not a spacer. After the nut there is a outer seal on the rear axles.
welldigger
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O ok. On the front axle no. Nothing is required between the nut and outer bearing. If it makes you feel better you can put an outer axle seal in between the bearing and nut. It won't really do anything.
I probably will install some kind of shim maybe a spare lock washer with the tabs bent straight or cut off it seems to me that it should be there. I wish I had some pics to show but there is a definite imprint on my old outer wheel bearing and had to use a air hammer and cut it off. I am sure this could have been prevented with a good maintenance schedule however it happened and I don't want it to happen again (chasing threads on the spindle sucks) Any problems anyone could see that I am overlooking with adding a shim?
welldigger
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Other than the fact that it won't prevent or cure anything.....it adds something else to weld to the spindle in the event of a failure.
The simple fact is the bearing failed and no shim or seal was going to save the spindle and nut.
Regular bearing packing and inspection is the ticket to prevent this from happening again.
Hainebd
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The lock washer is too soft for that placement. Needs to be a harden washer.
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Also read this thread or you can blow the boots when greasing.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...n-front-axle&p=1531700&highlight=#post1531700
Also there is a mandatory replacement parts list for your vehicle. It exists in TM 9-2320-361-24-2 WP 0470 00 which is the work package. See item 375.
Also the "WASHER, KEY" also known as keyed lock washer, tablock, locktab, item 375, and various other names (nsn 5310-00-752-1650) should fit right on without being hammered on. I bought lots of them and most were incorrect dimensions.
The original design and maintenance is to replace those parts.
All that part number 1229G969 washer, key thing really does is hold nuts on so the wheels don't fall off. It is also in the springseats, so if you find real ones and not the ones being sold recently then get a bunch of them.
On the right in the picture is my wood box( I am soldier A,B, + C) that I move my drums onto, works good.
washer, key research
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...n-front-axle&p=1531700&highlight=#post1531700
Also there is a mandatory replacement parts list for your vehicle. It exists in TM 9-2320-361-24-2 WP 0470 00 which is the work package. See item 375.
Also the "WASHER, KEY" also known as keyed lock washer, tablock, locktab, item 375, and various other names (nsn 5310-00-752-1650) should fit right on without being hammered on. I bought lots of them and most were incorrect dimensions.
The original design and maintenance is to replace those parts.
All that part number 1229G969 washer, key thing really does is hold nuts on so the wheels don't fall off. It is also in the springseats, so if you find real ones and not the ones being sold recently then get a bunch of them.
On the right in the picture is my wood box( I am soldier A,B, + C) that I move my drums onto, works good.
washer, key research
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