M35 fuel troubles

[SLEA]

Im trying to start a '70 M35 that ive recently bought (my first one), It was running fine before it was setup a couple years ago. Ive read through allot of TM's, and i do mechanic on my own vehicles, but I'm also new to diesel's, it was hard to get started, but when it finally fired off the idle was extremely high and the kill cable wouldn't kill it, i dumped the clutch in a high gear to kill it. the throttle and kill cable appear to be working correctly.
a friend who is an experienced diesel mech told me it sounded like the fuel rack was stuck and that likely it may restart correctly if i tried it again, i tried it again and it ran rough at a high and climbing idle, it was obviously loading up with fuel. I was attempting to move the truck no more than 3/4 of a mile to get it on property where i can work on it at my leisure and off the prev. business owners property.
Any suggestions, guidance would be appreciated. Also why would the kill not work?

 

[Warthog]

First check to see that the return spring is installed on the throttle linkage. If it is then we move to step two.

It is a common problem with trucks that sit for awhile.

It is not a fuel rack but rather the fuel control rod is sticking.

Remove the side cover from the injector pump and check to make sure the lever moves freely.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-Fuel-Engine-Fuel-Controll-Assembly&p=1640633
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61428-Stuck-open-injection-pump

When starting again, remove the intake mushroom and have an assistant ready with a large board to cover the intake.

 

[SLEA]

Thank you for the info and links, the return spring is working fine, I did try searching several different things but never found what you've got me! I can't wait to try this fix, first I tried placing my shirt on the bottom of the mushroom to kill it but that didn't even affect the idle at all, I will pull the cap next try and let you know if it fixed my issue.

 

[FloridaAKM]

You have to follow Warthog's recommendations of: When starting again, remove the intake mushroom and have an assistant ready with a large board to cover the intake.

It will save your engine in case it tries to run away!

 

[SLEA]

I surely will, I hope the short duration of excessive idle (not so much idle) didn't do any long term damage, it had hit around 3300 rpm before I decided dumping the clutch was my only option.

Are there any post damage checks I should make prior to my next starting attempt, like I said I really need to get it moved 3/4 of a mile before I really get indepth with all my checks?

Yes, before I get flamed, I was very unprepared for the events and do feel like a true idiot.

 

[Karl kostman]

When you try restarting the truck DO NOT use a shirt when attempting the plug the intake with the mushroom off, the tube is to big and you will get the shirt sucked right in and the truck will still be probably screaming by now! Use a flat board that is the most effective way to cut airflow on a Deuce.
Good luck!
KK

 

[SLEA]

Finally got it re-assembled and it ran like a charm, thanks for all the great knowledge and advice guys, I definitely have allot to learn.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the follow up. Glad you got it running

 

[jbayer]

Finally got it re-assembled and it ran like a charm, thanks for all the great knowledge and advice guys, I definitely have allot to learn.

Also glad you got it running.
So, what did you reassemble? Did you find something, as in a broken/bent/dirty or missing something or other when you disassembled what you reassembled?

 

[SLEA]

I cleaned the stuck fuel control rod, it wouldn't move at all but after I cleaned it it starts and kills great!

 

[SLEA]

A pic of the two I've acquired, the one on the left was the one that had the fuel rod issue, it's also a pain to start and smokes excessively, the other runs like a top, I've got allot of work to do.

 

[Keith_J]

I surely will, I hope the short duration of excessive idle (not so much idle) didn't do any long term damage, it had hit around 3300 rpm before I decided dumping the clutch was my only option.

Are there any post damage checks I should make prior to my next starting attempt, like I said I really need to get it moved 3/4 of a mile before I really get indepth with all my checks?

Yes, before I get flamed, I was very unprepared for the events and do feel like a true idiot.

The accelerator pedal controls the governor. The governor then controls engine speed, according to accelerator position. That the engine hit 3300 RPM means the link between the governor and injection pump is suspect.

Most probable is the fuel control lever is stuck. On the inside of this lever is diesel fuel. On the outside is engine oil. The only seal is the precision fit of the lever pivot in a bushing, that keeps diesel at a few PSI from leaking into the oil. So this shaft is easily fouled with diesel oxidation products, given this modern diesel, it is a sure bet if diesel is more than a few months old. Moisture contamination. Look for a milky layer or worse, dandruff flakes. It passes through most filters.

No potion will eliminate moisture problems. Only way is to heat it above the boiling point of water.

 

[Keith_J]

Ad you got off easy. I've had to pull that lever, cutting the safety wires and removing the screws. Then took the lever off the shaft and cleaned the bore and shaft. Careful reassembly, then aligning the pawl with the control block.

If you let fuel quality suffer, you will have to pull the hydraulic head and clean that out. All six injector lines, getting it all lined up and timed is an all day job. And if the fuel is really bad, you break parts. Or timing buttons fall off. All time consuming repairs.