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Remote AC

patracy

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I'm more interested in the DC compressor than anything. Would be an easy way to add AC to a CUCV and retain the alts.
 

Coffey1

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I wonder if there any thing special about the controler like a DC speed control or something.
 

patracy

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Compressor would be on/off, just like the clutch pack on a mech compressor. (Yes, flow would change at engine RPM)
 

ke5eua

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So basically they took what was already done on the hybrids and tweaked the controller a little. 9-30vdc in, 3 wire hookup. So basically the controller is an inverter providing a/c to the electric compressor.

I have explored this option for the 818, if it wasn't for the cost I would be all over it. Another option is to get a window unit compressor and have the fittings soldered on it and run a small inverter.
 

Keith_J

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Was considering it but built my own 24 volt DC compressor for a bit less. Surplus motor for $80 plus a $180 compressor and a few other parts. Built the motor compressor coupling from the clutch hub on he compressor, using a Lovejoy coupling.

even the big compressor only draws 31 amps, at 30 volts that is 930 Watts. At a coefficient of performance of 3 which is unheard of, that is still less than 3500 watts of cooling or much less than a ton of refrigeration ( energy absorbed by melting 2000 pounds of ice in 24 hours).

You need at least 1.5 tons in a pickup, 2.5 tons in a Blazer.
 

Keith_J

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Compressor would be on/off, just like the clutch pack on a mech compressor. (Yes, flow would change at engine RPM)
Would be far better to use the inverter as a variable frequency drive to vary the speed of the compressor, much like is done with high efficiency ductless mini splits.
 

ke5eua

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Was considering it but built my own 24 volt DC compressor for a bit less. Surplus motor for $80 plus a $180 compressor and a few other parts. Built the motor compressor coupling from the clutch hub on he compressor, using a Lovejoy coupling.

even the big compressor only draws 31 amps, at 30 volts that is 930 Watts. At a coefficient of performance of 3 which is unheard of, that is still less than 3500 watts of cooling or much less than a ton of refrigeration ( energy absorbed by melting 2000 pounds of ice in 24 hours).

You need at least 1.5 tons in a pickup, 2.5 tons in a Blazer.
Pics please.
 

badassissimo

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How would you manage to keep the alternators?
Once upon a time my steering pump went out and I drove like that for a year in a dying c10... I don't recommend it but that would free up a pulley loop. There'd be a few more parts to trade out but I have electric fans and humvee pulley grooves anyway. All those parts still don't come to 1200 or near. Likewise, if power steering is a big deal, electric power steering pumps work pretty nice. Least ways, my experience with the ones on newer SUVs was nice and got a lot more done than a mechanical one did in my m1009, c10, or even the little toyota camry I daily drive now. Still well under a grand. I could be snowballing on this one but I thought there was a thread about adding another arm for a 3rd alternator. Use that thread to get the compressor rolling?

Then again.. KISS rule could be the "cheaper" route.
 

patracy

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Yup, Hydroboost runs off the PS pump. Bad juju when it goes out. (Lack of power steering and brakes!)
 

tim292stro

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I am actually planning a DC-aircon, both for the XM1027 project, and the S-250 shelter project.

Those are Tecumseh/MasterFlux DC compressors, and you can get them from other places cheaper than JEGs (that's probably true for most of their products IMHO). Though, for the XM1027, I'm using a pair of compressors to get a little shy of 3-tons of cooling with a 48Volt supply (5kW boost regulator with separate battery pack) - the largest one they have at 12/24V will only do about 6500btu/hr (about half a ton), and will probably have trouble keeping up with freeway driving in the deserts of California, at altitude). I'm also expecting to use a huge alternator to get power to those in the XM1027 - at 2kW max load each with two compressors running, I'd expect a little shy of 150Amps pulled - might as well round that up if I take into account the condenser fans (outside, 24VDC), and evaporator fans (inside, 24VDC).

The requirements for the XM1027 project were more package constrained, I wasn't going to be able to fit factory AC under the hood with the power generation stuff I was doing, and the step from 200Amps to 450Amps didn't actually increase the case size for the alternator so that was a no-brainer (and picking up three 450Amp alternators from CBR-Metalworks here in the classifieds for $160 each made that a done deal).

The S-250 project was wanting a DC compressor that could do both internal air conditioning, as well as freeze the holding plate in the mini-fridge for power and space efficiency
 
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badassissimo

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Well.. wouldn't hurt to go electric on the hydro-boost too, would it? Might get some abrupt stops till it's felt out but I can't see why not. The only possible down side I can think of is the rpm on the power-steering pump aiding in steering at high speeds and probably matching stopping force but all of this would be on a chip set anyway.

Then again, KISS rule.
 
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