cev65
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Where you get the antidrainback valves and where do they go??
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There aren't any. You can get a spin on filter conversion kit. They have anti drain back valves built into the filters.Where you get the antidrainback valves and where do they go??
I tried that. The check valves cost over $100.00 and then they don't pass the oil volume needed as the passage is 1/2" not the factory 3/4" .Or just get a check valve...
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/SPINONADAPTERKITS.htmWhat's a spin on kit cost??
I guess that depends on the application and how hard they are to find. In my case they are cheap and easy to find. In high torque applications they are essential. To run the m35 alternater....not so much.I feel the same way about pre-lubing a 45 year old engine as the way I do about the magical matched belts. Not worth the time, effort or cost.
Or a Cummins 250 alternator or a fan. Water pump maybe and though it is arguably more important than the first two they only used one belt. Doh!!I guess that depends on the application and how hard they are to find. In my case they are cheap and easy to find. In high torque applications they are essential. To run the m35 alternater....not so much.
Well, logically, if the water pump belt brakes you now have an air cooled engine. Hence the double fan belt.Or a Cummins 250 alternator or a fan. Water pump maybe and though it is arguably more important than the first two they only used one belt. Doh!!
No its not. I'd also stop using the lucas also. It doesn't help with dry starts anymore than quality engine oil. If anything it over thickens the oil and dilutes it's additive package.So all in all is it worth the time and money to do a pre-lube system?? Running rotella 15-40 with a gallon of Lucas oil additive to help with dry start ups.