1952 M135 W/Winch

[SturmTyger380]

There should be a axle vent. I would check to see that they are not clogged. I had a couple of wheels on the M35 that looked like yours. I have no idea how that truck was stopping. It's axle vents were open. Just a crappy job with the cork.

The openings were closed off by Permatex blue. Funny, the same amount that squeezes out also squeezes in.

Hendersond - you are not icing a cake dude!

Now that you mention it I did read where you can use this stuff - Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

I used that all around the cork piece and then used the applicator and put it all around the area where the nut screwed up to the bearing. So far so good.

Alan

 

[hendersond]

We should come up with something that seals up this whole area after the locking tabs and lock nut are in place. Maybe held in place by the flange? Surely there is a better way to keep all the differential fluid out.

A project for another day maybe.

Maybe like a Dana 44 front axle. Place the lip seal inside the housing right beside the differential side bearing. Oil never even gets inside the tube as it all stays inside the pumpkin. The lip seal rides on the shiny area right next to the splined axle shaft.

Lets dwell on this for a while...
A modern seal has the lip SQUEEZING on the spindle. As a matter of fact there is a coiled spring SQUEEZING the lip to the spindle.
Many modern "full floating axles run the bearings in oil not grease. So we got 2 seals and we still can't hold it in? I know the inner seal is a squeezer. Does it have the spring around the lip?

And yes, My axles looked exactly the same or I would not be ranting.

 

[USMC 00-08]

So we got 2 seals and we still can't hold it in? I know the inner seal is a squeezer. Does it have the spring around the lip?

Sorry it took a while to get back to you. I have been down with the flu. Anyway... the answer is yes to the spring.

The wheel I took a picture of that had the most grease on it had inner seal number 32527. This is a replacement for 6584S which is what was original for the truck.

Here is a picture of them side by side.


They are the same dimensions with the exception of 6584S, which is a little thicker and has a lip wider than the seal itself. I am changing all seals to 6584S, but 32527 had been put in the truck by a previous owner. I am sure these seals are not the problem. It has to be that crazy cork seal. We have to come up with something better.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I ordered Walker carburetor kit #159040 that is in our parts list just to have one on hand. Here is what they look like. Seems good to me.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I have been out of town and was able to stop by and look at the first M135 I owned. I still own it, but have not shipped it out where I currently live yet. I have owned it for about 10 years now, but have never taken much time for it or even looked through it. Hopefully that will change later this summer. It does run but need transmission work. The plan is to use one of the transmissions out of my parts trucks to get it going.


I've never seen an air buzzer like this before.


Or a light like this.


The old orange forestry paint is coming off now and I was able to see some of the old military markings. The hood number is 41143???. I could not see the last three numbers.

Thought you guys might enjoy seeing it.

 

[USMC 00-08]

My rear brakes are done and ready to go. Since I had to replace all of the wheel cylinders back there, I decided to change out the front with new ones as well so everything is the same. My front brakes were done back in November complete with new hub seals, wheel bearings cleaned, packed etc. Today I decided to pull everything apart to swap wheel cylinders out...simple task.

Well... when I pulled apart the front driver side, there was gear oil that had leaked into the front of the hub and partly washed out my outer bearing. The oil had not gone past that and the middle of the hub and the inner bearing and seal are fine. I did take out the grease zert that is on the knuckle and quite a bit of gear oil drained out. The passenger side knuckle was fine as was everything else.

Trying to find a solution to this problem, I came across this thread
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?65931-Clearing-up-axle-seal-confusion

What is the inner axle seal and where is it? Anyone have a modern part number? Does anyone have any pictures of rebuilding the steering knuckle.

What could be my problem? Over the winter, I did have the truck parked in a way that the driver side was somewhat lower than the passenger side. In hindsight, probably not a smart thing to do. Do I have a bad seal or did the oil just run in because of how the truck was parked?

 

[m1010plowboy]

Front inner seal

Posts 148 and 149 here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52255-G749-preservation/page15

Post 140 has info on one of the original/replacement?? seals The "National" 'original' inner axle seal Part #2277317

contains some funky pictures of the CR18025 and the NOS seal from Brian Asbury TOD82-3970/4. The CR18025 was thinner than the original seals, so I put 2 in.

I heard a theory that if the trucks aren't driven 52x a year they will leak. There was another thought that the weight of the truck somehow deforms the seal and they seep out the bottom. Can't wrap my head around how the axle wouldn't always sit true, in the middle of the rubber, but the proof is in the leaking.

Outside storage has been hard on Goose too. We were problem free for the 1,2, and 3 year inspections but looks like Goose blew a seal from her rear-end while nesting over the winter.

Here's the inner seal.

 

[USMC 00-08]

That is what I was looking for. Thanks!!! This leaking stuff is becoming a challenge. Fix one thing and then the next starts leaking.

I'm not ready to rebuild the knuckles yet so I will see what happens. The passenger side is just fine. It is very possible I overfilled the differential last time and then with it sitting on that incline with the driver side on the lowest point, the oil may have run past the seal like Gunfreak eluded to. Hopefully that is it. I just want to make sure before I tear it all apart.

 

[Another Ahab]

I heard a theory that if the trucks aren't driven 52x a year they will leak. There was another thought that the weight of the truck somehow deforms the seal and they seep out the bottom. Can't wrap my head around how the axle wouldn't always sit true, in the middle of the rubber, but the proof is in the leaking.

Was what you haerd related to all vehicles in general, or just this one?

 

[USMC 00-08]

My brakes are finally done and working great!!!! This thing stops on a dime!

I checked all of my differentials and I am sure I had them too full. I pumped them down to where the oil is about 1 inch below the bottom edge of the fill hole. Hopefully this will solve my gear oil leaks.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I ended up with a fiberglass troop seat set, and a metal bow set . The seats and headboard are out of a M35 and the bows out of a 5 ton.

Some of the purists may hate me, but I want to use these so I don't have to worry about wood deteriorating. Three of the stakes on each side and the seat legs just need cut down a little shorter to accommodate the M135 wheel well. The metal 5 ton bows are 75-3/4 inches long. If I am not mistaken, M135 bows are 69 inches long.

Has anyone succeeded in making the metal bows work for the M135? If so, advice would be appreciated. I was planning on cutting an even amount off each end of the bows to take them down to 69 inches.

Not a great picture but here they are.

 

[Another Ahab]

I ended up with a fiberglass troop seat set, and a metal bow set . The seats and headboard are out of a M35 and the bows out of a 5 ton.

Not a great picture but here they are.
View attachment 562765

Compared to none, any picture is a good picture. Thanks for the shot.

 

[USMC 00-08]

m1010plowboy is right, this stuff is lurking around in barns waiting to be found. Ended up with these today.

The intake/exhaust manifold looks good with no visible cracks. The carburetors should be good rebuildable cores.

 

[m1010plowboy]

m1010plowboy is right, this stuff is lurking around in barns waiting to be found.

If I'm finally right about something I'm glad it's G749 parts. Would you mind if I copy and paste this to send to my ex? She WAS wrong about me! I AM right once in a while.


Kinda looks like your wife might be right about you though. Got a little green part collection addiction going on? Nice find!

 

[USMC 00-08]

Use it to your advantage however you need to.

My wife does get a little annoyed with my "investments" from time to time. She on the other hand wants a CCKW or a WW2 Jeep. As soon as I can make one of those happen for her, I will.

As soon as I get everything off of my parts trucks that I need, I will be selling the rest off. Feel free to start wish lists. I'll post up in the classifieds when the time comes.

 

[Another Ahab]

My wife does get a little annoyed with my "investments" from time to time. She on the other hand wants a CCKW or a WW2 Jeep. As soon as I can make one of those happen for her, I will.

It's all good; that's how you keep the love alive.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I got one side of the troop seats done. All I had to do was cut a little bit off the three middle stakes and seat legs. They were cut to the same dimensions as the original M135 pieces. I really like how it turned out.

 

[Another Ahab]

I got one side of the troop seats done. All I had to do was cut a little bit off the three middle stakes and seat legs. They were cut to the same dimensions as the original M135 pieces. I really like how it turned out.

View attachment 563255View attachment 563256

It's looking good.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Both of the side racks are installed now and I am moving on to the headboard.


This is off of an M35 and is of course too wide for the M135 bed. I do not have access to a good M135 headboard that will allow me to get accurate measurements from so that I can modify this one. If not too inconvenient, could one of you measure an M135 headboard and tell me overall length, how long the boards are supposed to be as well as how far in the two center stakes are supposed to be from the end pieces? I would sure like to modify this right the first time since I only have one shot at it.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Both of the side racks are installed now and I am moving on to the headboard.
View attachment 563450

This is off of an M35 and is of course too wide for the M135 bed. I do not have access to a good M135 headboard that will allow me to get accurate measurements from so that I can modify this one. If not too inconvenient, could one of you measure an M135 headboard and tell me overall length, how long the boards are supposed to be as well as how far in the two center stakes are supposed to be from the end pieces? I would sure like to modify this right the first time since I only have one shot at it.

I'll be with Goose tomorrow for her 1st big parade so if they're not posted by midnight, I'll measure up.

For the fun of it, take a measurement between your rails as they sit now and we'll see how close that is to two 2 sets of original racks that I have.

Nice upgrade, it's not made of wood so its good for the MVironment.