Those who have added a turbo

[welpro222]

I thought I would start thread on people who have added a turbo to the 6.2 diesel, I though it would be nice to have a collection of info for people who are thinking about doing it.

How much did it cost you?

Did you notice any difference?

Does it tow any better? Uphill or flat?

Does it get better mileage?

Was it worth it?

 

[Stonepicker1]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?66745-Dually-M1028A2-South-Florida-Rebuild

See post # 23, 27, 34, 35,41

How much did it cost you? $2000

Did you notice any difference? YES, a lot more power.

Does it tow any better? Uphill or flat? Yes, it was like night and day. Pulls better than my 2000, 6.5 turbo up a hill.

Does it get better mileage? About the same.

Was it worth it? I wouldn't buy a new kit, maybe a cheap used one if I was going to do it again.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

How much did it cost you?
All in probably $800

Did you notice any difference?
I did. Moving from 600ft of elevation to 5800ft my cucv was ok-ish to drive. Getting to 8k feet meant putting along well below the speed limits. Now it'll at least move out of its own way

Does it tow any better? Uphill or flat?
Don't tow

Does it get better mileage?
Mine seems to be worse but then again I seem to get on it more (turbos sound great)

Was it worth it?
I kind of wish I would of spent the money on axles and a gear change but I think the headache of it was worth it.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Well worth it, got great milage, 3:73 gears granny 4 spd with a ranger overdrive. PM me or call me i'll walk ya through what i know. Soon as i get back to my actual computor i will edit this with a short how and what to look out for, typing onmy dumb phone is a pain.
Joe S. (307)-282-0773

Edit...

If your going to do the junkyard conversion from a 6.5..... look for the "GM-3" turbo setup. this was used around 93-94. the reason is the turbo wastegate is mechanical. You can cut the tin can off and use the internal spring with a nut/washer and have an adjustable wastegate. 14PSI is the majic number for 6.2's as any more runs the risk of blowing head gaskets. 6.2's are naturally aspir high compression engines pushing approx 22-1 compression, 6.5 turbos are low compression pushing approx 14-1 or 16-1 compression...
I studed mine with ARP and new gaskets when I turbo'ed it, some guys use the 6.5 heads as they are supposed to flow better for coolant.
Keep your 6.2 injection pump as its mechanical and turn the fuel screw up about 3/4-1 turn, depending on elevation. ( l lived at 8500ft and had it turned up 2 turns and it would fog out those behind me.. I finally worked it down to a happy spot.
I had to have my machinist brother mill me a 3/8 spacer plate that I ran between the 6.5 turbo manifold and the head, reason was so that I could get to the glow plugs on the passenger side... I figure if you run the 6.5 heads this shouldnt be an issue.
Turbo drain will have to be fabbed into the oil pan, this is farely simple with a mig welder and some plate steel tapped to 1/2 pipe, the drain tube off the turbo is avialible from GM for modest $.... I suggest swapping out the starter to a gear reduction, (big $ but well worth it) as this will allow you more options to weld the bung in the oil pan for the turbo drain.
Turbo oil feed can be gathered from the back of the block where the oil pressure sending unit is... just remember this line needs to be flexible as I used steel tranny cooler line and a $0.50 fitting snapped and cost me a $2500 (my labor + parts) rebuild and a toasted crank.
I sold this engine some years ago as I was putting a 24v Cummins in my truck... the 6.2 had a tendency to heat up on tows and long hills. I loved the milage, (mid 20s on veggy oil/diesel mix) with the ranger OD I had 8 forward gears with a 27* overdrive. I could go from Moorcroft Wyoming to Ft Collins CO on one tank of diesel, in a 4x4 dually crew cab that weighed around 7500lbs fighing wind at highway speeds....

 

[Gunfighter1]

Yes, huge difference. Actually has balls now and doesnt take half a day to get up to 55. Dont remember what it cost but it was under 2K with the turbo being rebuilt and all the little stuff . Pieced together it all locally.

 

[Drock]

I ordered and installed a new Banks sidewinder turbo, from Banks. As it turns out it's cheaper to order directly from them then from summit? Not sure why there in competition with there own customers, but HUH what do I know ? So I ordered the kit, they tell me I'll receive it in about 1-1/2 to 2 weeks. After 2 weeks with no kit and no contact from them I call. Apparently they no longer stock this kit, and have to make one for me. So finally I receive the kit ah month and ah half after I ordered it, start the PIA! installation fighting with parts that have bin together for 30 years and want to stay that way, and instructions that are vague at best. When I finally get to the exhaust, it turns out they sent 2WD rather then 4WD pipes. So I call and request that they overnight the correct pipes so my ONLY work vehicle can get back on the road ASAP. They call the next day and refuse to overnight, and send them snail mail. So I get the pipes, install them, and the head/down pipe out of the back of the turbo is bent incorrectly and makes contact with the frame rail. More phone calls and pictures to prove/explain the problem to them then another week to receive the new pipe. Cost, about $2400.00 for the kit, and about $300.00 in supplies so $2700.00ish...... If I had it to do over again I think for the same price I could have just bought a compete wrecking yard 6.5 (with turbo) and either dropped it straight in or swapped the turbo over to my 6.2. Then I would have had a turbo + ah core engine when it comes time for a rebuild. Or perhaps I mite have had better luck just paying the little extra and ordered the kit Summit had on there shelf which wouldn't have bin quickly thrown together to fill an order like mine was? Even with all the problems I experienced I'll have to say in my opinion the turbo doubles the total performance of the truck! And makes it a viable work truck that can now tow and keep up with traffic on the highway.

 

[mdeamicis]

This is a pretty good idea. Although I would hate to duplicate any similar existing threads. But I would love a COMPLETE list of ports to turbo the 6.2 litre. I have most of the parts myself, they came with the truck. I plan to install the turbo asap after installing the dana 60's, also asap. I have a banks rebuilt turbo, manifold, downpipe, oil tank and a bag of blots and brackets. The bag of bolts has some plates that look they are for securing the turbo to the manifold and the exhaust. I would love to see some picks of how the assembly goes together. I know I need a hygrometer and a gauge to go with it as well as a boost and oil pressure gauge. I am sure I am missing something.

 

[Drock]

This is a pretty good idea. Although I would hate to duplicate any similar existing threads. But I would love a COMPLETE list of ports to turbo the 6.2 litre. I have most of the parts myself, they came with the truck. I plan to install the turbo asap after installing the dana 60's, also asap. I have a banks rebuilt turbo, manifold, downpipe, oil tank and a bag of blots and brackets. The bag of bolts has some plates that look they are for securing the turbo to the manifold and the exhaust. I would love to see some picks of how the assembly goes together. I know I need a hygrometer and a gauge to go with it as well as a boost and oil pressure gauge. I am sure I am missing something.

If you go to banks website you can print out the instruction manual.