M1078 little additions & mods

[Terrh]

it actually really surprises me that engine oil is OK to use in that auto trans at all. Not many automatics would be OK with that, ATF is quite a lot thinner than 10W40.

I'd put some modern synthetic Dexron IV in there when you change the filters. You should always flush transmissions when changing fluids, but I think it is almost an absolute MUST if changing fluid types.

If you don't want to spend gigabucks on fluid doing it, I don't think there would be a problem with using the cheapest dexron IV you can find during the flush until you're satisfied you've got all the motor oil or whatever is in there is out.

There are a ton of methods to flush auto transmissions, easiest way for many transmissions is to unhook the cooler lines, one will blast fluid out and the other will suck fluid in, so you let it suck in fresh fluid while it pumps out the old stuff. Do this after changing the stuff in the pan once. Not 100% sure this method will work with this transmission, but it probably will.

disclaimer: I have very little experience with HD auto transmissions, mostly just light and medium duty stuff, YMMV and if anything I say sounds wrong it might be!

 

[Suprman]

Added rev cam. Makes it much easier in reverse and I can leave it on with the push of a button. I was driving around I need to remember I am over the wheels and go forward a bit more before turning I am used to driving my old 5-ton. Next comes a radio with subwoofer and more lights.

 

[honor first]

Added rev cam. Makes it much easier in reverse and I can leave it on with the push of a button. I was driving around I need to remember I am over the wheels and go forward a bit more before turning I am used to driving my old 5-ton. Next comes a radio with subwoofer and more lights.

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Very nice. Where is the camera in that rear end picture, don't see it.

 

[Tetz]

Very nice. Where is the camera in that rear end picture, don't see it.

It's on the right side between the shackle and the brake light.

That looks like a pretty nice setup.

 

[Suprman]

Hella H4 headlights with 12v silverstars. The original headlights sucked.

 

[Suprman]

H4 low and high beams at night. With the cheapo LED lights on too.

 

[Tetz]

H4 low and high beams at night. With the cheapo LED lights on too.

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That's pretty nice, I'd bet it's a lot better than the stock ones (haven't seen them).

I put a set of these on my KLR and it made a world of difference: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W

They're pretty affordable and I've beaten my bike up with them in and no failures so far. I think once I've gotten my own LMTV I'll put them in there, too.

 

[MaiNiaK]

Wicked nice..!! We live in the country where you might not think it would matter, but moose do serious damage. Their dark and hard to see even with optimal lighting. Being a cab over I'd hate to hit one dead center without having a major, fold down, cattle bumper in place.

I'm still waiting for my SF-97 so I can register mine. Seeing how much you've already done, make me feel like I'm slacking..!!

 

[Suprman]

You live in Maine a bill of sale would have done just fine. I registered mine with a bill of sale from me to me. It would be nice to have a pinned removeable push bar in front like the humvees have. I'm the gizmo guy I modify everything. I have a 200 amp alternator upgrade kit I am doing next week then the stereo is going in. Looking into a sliding back window for the cab too. Maybe some low profile roof lights.

 

[MaiNiaK]

A bill of sale would have worked fine if I had bought a 94, but I bought a 95. Maine has the 20yr title requirement.

For my push bumper I plan to use a length of 6 inch thick walled pipe. Slid over that (but notched for the 2 attachment points) will be a 7 inch thick walled pipe. The 7 inch will ether have 2 inch pipe or T shaped steel welded on vertically with the tops cut at a 45. So it looks like a grill on the front with guards around the lights. Then so the cab can still tilt forward, pull the 3 or 4 pins and it folds forward. I will also make it so it can be pinned in the forward position. Probably a light bar underneath.

Are you adding the 200 amp because your running out of power with all the add on's?

 

[Suprman]

In CT 1995 would be 20 years since its 2015. I have been having issues with the 12v side of the 100a alternator and I have the kit new in the crate. Its an odd alternator its 12/24 but appears designed to be used in a "combined system" like our trucks have. Many of the dual voltage Niehoff alternators are designed for 2 independent electrical systems one 12v and one 24v ours does not appear that way. The 100 amp rating is split between both voltages its like there is two 12v alternator windings with a tap off in the middle. I am having issues with the 12v regulator sense but the 24v just picks up the slack so you dont really notice it. I have done a bunch of troubleshooting and following wires looking for any damage and found none. I have a few Army mechanic friends the general consensus is the polarity protective device, under the spare tire, is causing the problem. The 200a version is relocated so I cant just swap it out the new one is larger and the truck operates fine. If you werent an electrical geek like me you probably wouldnt notice it at all. None of the add ons so far really draw any power. I have all kinds of lights, power converters, stereo with amps and stuff on my M939 trucks off the stock 60a alt and that works just fine. The mil 100a rating is the lowest possible output under the worst conditions.

 

[Oxyacetylene]

I'm interested in the 200amp alternator swap. Post some details of what is different between the 100amp system and the upgraded system. I was wondering if the wires are heavier gauge, is the pulley on the alternator really different, etc.

 

[Suprman]

I will post pics when I do it. The protective polarity relay isolator gets relocated under the air cleaner, alt to batt cables relocated to right side of engine and the alt is a bit larger. Pulley looks about the same. In theory one could just do a larger 24v only alternator with a 100a power converter running the 12v. It's a center tapped setup on the batteries anyways not 2 independent systems one for 12 and one for 24.