71 kaiser... got a clunk and shake.... any ideas?

[longbeard87]

i just picked up a 71 kaiser m35a2 about a month ago. ive put around 300 miles on it since i bought it just trying to get all the bugs worked out. today when i was leaving my house when i came to the stop sign my brakes made a funny "clunk" noise when i first pressed them but never made the noise again so i didnt pay it much attention. however now when i slow from 40mph and am on the brakes i get a wobble and occasionally another clunk............... any ideas before i start tearing into it blindly? thanks guys.....

 

[dmetalmiki]

For crying out loud, CHECK YOUR WHEEL NUTS IMMEDIATELY. (or sooner!) And wheel bearings, Before doing a full all round inspection to check and perform necessary maintenance on your truck. And can we have pictures of your vehicle please. Now, Welcome to the site, Hobby, friendships, And events to come. Go to it and duly report progress. Good Luck.

 

[longbeard87]

Lol I checked all that.... im thinking it might be hub bearings guess I just gotta rip it apart and give it a good once over

 

[dmetalmiki]

Another tip for you, When you have checked your bearings and adjusted them as per the appropriate T.M. And before putting wheels back on, Grease or oil the wheel studs. This will ensure Even and Adequate Torque on the wheel (and wheel nuts).
If threads are "dry" they Can (will!) bind to varying degrees, resulting in uneven tightening torque. Hence the "crack" you may have experienced when Trying to undo the wheel nuts. (on Any vehicle). If lubricated, this "Bind snatch and crack" does Not occur.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Another tip for you, When you have checked your bearings and adjusted them as per the appropriate T.M. And before putting wheels back on, Grease or oil the wheel studs. This will ensure Even and Adequate Torque on the wheel (and wheel nuts).
If threads are "dry" they Can (will!) bind to varying degrees, resulting in uneven tightening torque. Hence the "crack" you may have experienced when Trying to undo the wheel nuts. (on Any vehicle). If lubricated, this "Bind snatch and crack" does Not occur.

Do not do this!


If you feel the need to apply something, put anti-seize on. I prefer the copper to the regular silver stuff.

 

[rustystud]

Do not do this!


If you feel the need to apply something, put anti-seize on. I prefer the copper to the regular silver stuff.

I also recommend using "anti-seize" . At my work ( Transit Dept ) we always use anti-sieze ( or "Tri-Flow" Teflon spray) on all the lug nut threads. This will always provide a good and accurate torque reading. You don't want the wheels coming off ! I mean that literally !

 

[daytonatrbo]

Antiseize is a very handy thing, but you will find that in 99% of cases the torque spec on wheel lugs is for DRY.

 

[steelandcanvas]

We did this in the Military, and I still do this: A very conservative amount on the stud threads only. I Don't put any lubricant on the face of the lug nut or the wheel. This argument has been going on forever.

 

[longbeard87]

UPDATE: didnt have a whole lot of time to really tear it apart this morning but i jacked the truck up and did the wiggle the tire with a pry bar trick and it seemed tight............... could worn brake shoes make a shimmy? i drove it around the block and the problem only arises when im hard on the brakes

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, ESPECIALLY if they are not adjusted right.

I typically do 15thousandths top and bottom, rather than the 10 top and 20 bottom like the book says.

 

[longbeard87]

could it have gotten out of adjustment just from normal driving wear and tear or should i expect to do a major brake overhaul..... ive never messed with air over hydraulic drum brakes, i just assumed they would be similar to traditional drum brakes

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes and no.

If you haven't looked inside your drums yet, you should probably do so. You will be able to verify the brake pad's mounting studs(which is what this sounds like), your wheel cyls, bearings and (brake pad)adjustment.

 

[gringeltaube]

......i just assumed they would be similar to traditional drum brakes

These are simple drum brakes. The only thing that's different to say a typical '60s pickup truck is the way the booster works.


G.

 

[rustystud]

Antiseize is a very handy thing, but you will find that in 99% of cases the torque spec on wheel lugs is for DRY.

We have beaten this horse dead many times now. The last time I posted a memo from Meritor Axles saying to lightly lube the threads of the wheel studs. If our major transit department (1400 buses and counting ) and a major axle manufacturer says to lightly lube the studs then I think it is OK to lube them.

 

[Brian Kemm]

As for wheel retainer maintenance it pretty simple.i dealbwith a fleet of 530 tractors in bulk powder, liquid, and propane and the industry standard is to lubricate the stud with light oil. We generally use 10w tractor fluid (all season hydraulic oil) or 50 wit Eaton transmission lube. 1 quart does about 1000-1500 wheel studs. That's on a bud wheel retainer. On unimount (hub pilot and stud pilot systems) you also use the same light oil on the wheel nut swivel ring. I have first hand seen that never seeze dries out over time and stiffens up attracting dirt which binds them up. Generally on hub pilot wheels if the wheel nut ring doesn't turn you throw it out and replace it. Bud wheels you would benefit more from a marine grease on the rear inner nut/stud so that you don't require a pork chop (budd inner nut lock) to remove the outer nut from the inner nut stud. Really works well to prevent corrosion. But in the end in a pinch use whatever lubricant you have around. Grease and a solder pastier brush works great. Motor oil, even used motor oil works great. The end goal is to obtain correct torque to prevent wheel loss and also enable easy removal. They do make 475lb ft torque sticks for 1" impact guns to make it a no brainier as well.