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Genset Bonding Switch?

steelandcanvas

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A few years back, there was a Member that installed a switch on a Genset, that in one position bonded the Neutral and Ground, and in the other would separate, or un-bond the Neutral and Ground. I'm sure the reasoning was to be able to safely attach the Genset to residential service, or as a stand alone with a driven ground rod. Anybody familiar with that post?
 

Crawdaddy

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I'm working on a genset trailer and wanted to do the same thing. I figured I'd use either a safety disconnect, or a single-breaker in a dedicated panel to act as a disconnect. Of course the switch would get ample signage and description as to its function.
 

Gunzy

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As my unit is going to be primarily a backup for my house I was going to just strap them together and put on a sign saying they are so if I got out into the wild with it I will unstrap and rod it. Your ideas are great but a strap and sign is cheap.
 

DieselAddict

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I'm working on a genset trailer and wanted to do the same thing. I figured I'd use either a safety disconnect, or a single-breaker in a dedicated panel to act as a disconnect. Of course the switch would get ample signage and description as to its function.

Using a switch wouldn't be my first choice but I would strongly recommend against using a breaker. That connection needs to be maintained to the point of failure if need be. You don't want to risk having a breaker trip at the wrong time.
 

DieselAddict

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As my unit is going to be primarily a backup for my house I was going to just strap them together and put on a sign saying they are so if I got out into the wild with it I will unstrap and rod it. Your ideas are great but a strap and sign is cheap.
If the primary use is a home backup where you already have a grounding system you would unbond the neutral from the ground and extend the ground from the home system.

When the generator is being used solo that is when you would bond the neutral and ground then drive a rod.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
Am I missing something.. On the MEP-802 and MEP-803 the bonding copper piece is right in plain view whether its bonded or not. The copper piece is a bridge between the Ground and Neutral lugs.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
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Location
Southwestern Idaho
As my unit is going to be primarily a backup for my house I was going to just strap them together and put on a sign saying they are so if I got out into the wild with it I will unstrap and rod it. Your ideas are great but a strap and sign is cheap.
Incorrect, You would want the neutral and ground un-bonded when feeding into a main service panel. The neutral and Service Equipment Ground are already bonded at that point. You do not want two grounding points.

If the primary use is a home backup where you already have a grounding system you would unbond the neutral from the ground and extend the ground from the home system. When the generator is being used solo that is when you would bond the neutral and ground then drive a rod.
Correct. I want to be able to select bonded or un-bonded, and have my genset flexible for different uses without having to bolt and un-bolt items.
 

Crawdaddy

Member
442
2
18
Location
Louisiana
Howdy,
Am I missing something.. On the MEP-802 and MEP-803 the bonding copper piece is right in plain view whether its bonded or not. The copper piece is a bridge between the Ground and Neutral lugs.
But on a MEP-002 and MEP-003, and the entire MEP-016 series, the bonding is done on the back of the ground wire split nut, so it's not plainly visible or a quick swap. Therefore a nice easy knife switch is visible and easy.
 

Gunzy

Well-known member
1,769
65
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Location
Roy, Utah
If the primary use is a home backup where you already have a grounding system you would unbond the neutral from the ground and extend the ground from the home system.

When the generator is being used solo that is when you would bond the neutral and ground then drive a rod.
Well, that IS helpful. I had it backwards and am glad I know now. Thanks guys. This is why the knowledge here is awsome.
 
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