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Civi door ?

MAZ537

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Location
EU
Hello to all!I finally found a rust and dent free driver side door to put in my M1008 long time project (read in need of major repairs).It comes from an civi truck and as you can see it is different where the exterior mirror bolts to it.Can I put the parts from my old door to it to can mount the mirror properly ?
 

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cucvrus

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I would have to look close at it. One key item is the sharpness of the edges on the vents at the bottom of the door. Imports are sharp in comparison to genuine GM doors. Also the nuts in the door jam are not the same on the knockoffs. Many have misalignment with the holes in the sheet metal. The imports have improved over the years. But with the genuine parts being harder and harder to come by they are now the new standard acceptable replacement parts. I remember not accepting sheet metal parts from the dealer for minor imperfections. Now that is the norm to have them imperfections and it is explained because they are imported. I still have all the warranties from my genuine GM replacement sheet metal. They were warranted against rust thru to the original purchaser.(me) Well that would be sweet to try now and make a claim. They no longer make the parts. I am fortunate enough to have many genuine GM sheet metal parts still in the boxes. I have undecided on what to do with them at this point. I will probably save them till I retire and then send some to Carlisle or some other truck event. i always entertain offers. But am seldom making any sales. It's a possession thing I guess. Check it out if the door fits use it. It will do the same job.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I don't want to beat you up. That is a definite counterfeit. I just finished sanding the door jams on my M1009 Mule and they are not like that. The nuts in the jam are a dead give away. Don't strike back at me. Anyone else have an opinion. I was thinking of this post as I was sanding. You can drag your hands over the vents on the OEM doors and the edges are smooth. If you drag your hand iver the knock offs. Get the band aids out. Sand it prime it seal it and paint it. It will be fine. Preparation is 99% of the finished project. Good luck and make it enjoyable or don't do it.
 

MAZ537

Member
166
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Location
EU
Thanks again for the great info!They have some more doors, I hope to find a good genuine one...
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg014.jpg015.jpgThis is a few pictures of the door from a 1984 M1009 Mule that I have. The doors are in remarkably good shape for the OEM doors. They did have a few dents and have been repaired by a savage body man in the military at one time. But they are in great shape and will do just fine on a vehicle with a flat color finish. If it were going to be gloss paint. Forget it these would be scrap on a gloss paint job. Unless you like happy doors that wave at everybody. Thanks for looking.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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Location
Rochester NY
I don't want to beat you up. That is a definite counterfeit. I just finished sanding the door jams on my M1009 Mule and they are not like that. The nuts in the jam are a dead give away. Don't strike back at me. Anyone else have an opinion. I was thinking of this post as I was sanding. You can drag your hands over the vents on the OEM doors and the edges are smooth. If you drag your hand iver the knock offs. Get the band aids out. Sand it prime it seal it and paint it. It will be fine. Preparation is 99% of the finished project. Good luck and make it enjoyable or don't do it.
I was thinking OEM, for no other reason than the spot welds look a little to perfect for AM. Kinda hard to tell tho.
With another look the indentation lines are pretty darn smooth too, not that it really matters much use what you got.
I've found that the most troublesome area is where the window frame meets the A pillar, the rest can usually be horsed around and made to fit.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
No they are not. That is an easy task. Just use the unibit and it cuts perfect holes. The riv-nuts are the key. They used to make all the fenders with the holes in them for the emblems also. That is why a CUCV has the plastic rivets in the front fenders. After 1988 they stopped putting the holes in the replacement fenders because the 1988-1991 did not have bolt on emblems. They had adhesive emblems. I have had to drill to holes on a few customers trucks that replaced the front fenders to make it as original as possible. I put black vinyl dots on a few and glued black buck rivet heads on mine. No holes drilled and looked original. I am still not 100% sure on your door. But like i said use what you have. Properly painted ,installed and properly adjusted no one will be any the wiser. And who knows it could be the genuine thing. It matters not when complete.
 

MAZ537

Member
166
23
18
Location
EU
I will have to use this door anyway as it seems that drivers doors are very hard to come by in good shape (they have lot of good passenger side)!. One difference I found today is that the lower mirror bracket thread/bolt hole is a bit wider to allow some kind of adjustment, it the vehicle door the hole does not allow any adjusment.I also found a small stress crack but I will use at all.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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10,348
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The bottom hole is bigger. It allows the use of the bolt for the inner support bracket for the mirror. The inner support bracket connects the inner and out door skin together for better structural strength and support. Do you have that piece?
 
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