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Heads up to M1008 owners rear ubolts

cucvrus

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006.jpg008.jpg007.jpgI just replaced the spring saddles on Mr Rusty. I looked at the ORD type when I bought the steering box reinforcement but the Stanley springs man said that will change the weight distribution of the rear springs. i thought about it for a while and said. OK what are my options. He sold me these cast replacements that still stay on the bottom of the springs. These are made of cast and do not have a place where debris can accumulate. I am not a spring expert. But when I look at lighter duty CUCV M1009 they have the spring plates on top and the others have it on the bottom. I think there must have been a reason for that. I was putting this back together with new springs front and rear and the customer was hauling coal and a plow so I followed the recommendations of the Stanley springs salesman. Your job looks good. Just thought I would mention this. I have changed a few of these because of rust. Most often on snow plow trucks and salt spreaders.
 

welpro222

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Stanley springs man said that will change the weight distribution of the rear springs
That is interesting? There is always a reason why they do things the way they do. I don't thing I'll be loading this truck up to the max capacity as I am adding a 4inch lift at the same time.

CUCVRUS, What did you use for paint on your frame? Is it a rust stopping paint? It appears you had some nasty rust problem on the top of the frame. I plan on doing something for my frame as I have some rust forming on the rear section of my frame.
 

cucvrus

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005.jpgI top coated the Rustoleum Rust reformer with this Krylon Iron Guard. This is a water based paint and it is nice to use from a cup gun. It cleans up with soap and water and drys quickly. All this was after I needle scaled the frame and ran a knot wire wheel over the entire surface. I don't want to rob your thread. But I did want to answer your question. 021.jpg020.jpg019.jpg
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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"If you have a 1-ton GM truck with the 1-ton axle, you will need to have a lift that moves the springs down from the frame to create clearance for the ubolt plate. Examples of these lift types would be a shackle flip kit or a new deeper arch spring. A stock spring on a stock truck will have to retain the factory style ubolts because of tight clearance to the frame."

Here is the little tidbit of information that nearly everyone overlooks, right from the ORD site.
 

welpro222

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So far, as I have mine in the air on stands. It looks like it will make contact with the bump stop bracket. I will cut away the side to make clearance, I will keep you updated when I complete the lift if it appears it will still hit the frame.
 

cucvrus

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Yes I believe the guy. That's OK if you don't. There was a lot of rhyme to his rhythm. I too have been working on trucks for 25 years and see the jams people get it with poor modifications. I was only trying to help. Keep it easy. Again I knew someone would have something negative to say. That's fine do it how ever you like. I tend to go the easy way. Replace the defective parts not change the design. The U bolts, nuts, washers, centering pins with plates was $90. A direct unbolt clean the area paint and install new parts. With a torch 2 hours tops. On the ground one side at a time. welpro222good luck with your task. I hope everything works out for you. Thank you for your time.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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While I don't necessarily agree on changing the weight distribution, I'm not a technician or salesperson in that field. My common sense physics approach doesn't see it but I can be taught. I think the cast u-bolt saddles are an excellent option for those not wishing to change the geometry of the trucks suspension. Eliminating the catch basin that the original design has, can do much good, especially in a road salt environment.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
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Location
Clover, SC
You can also drill a hole on the bottom so it will drain and can clean them out. I like the idea of cucvrus new plates.
 
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