1952 M135 W/Winch

[USMC 00-08]

Quieter is part of the goal. Lower RPMs, maybe a little more power on hills. I don't plan on getting wild with it or exceeding speeds of 50-55 mph. Would just like to see what it would do with a different engine and transmission. I'm hoping to use the same transfer case so I don't loose the 6x6. First gear should work fine for low range.

As for brakes, I may use the original system and just hook up the air compressor to the 366 somehow or maybe use the brake system out of the truck the engine is in. I'm not sure yet. A lot of research to do. I do want to maintain the original look as much as possible. Maybe use the original shift tower, etc. Hopefully the only visible difference would be under the hood.

My carburetor build is coming along nicely I think. This modern carburetor cleaner doesn't work at all!

As a result, I resorted to this.....


It melts the old varnish off in 20 minutes of soaking. Judge for yourself.

Before


After

 

[Another Ahab]

My carburetor build is coming along nicely I think. This modern carburetor cleaner doesn't work at all!

As a result, I resorted to this.....
View attachment 577495

It melts the old varnish off in 20 minutes of soaking. Judge for yourself.

After
View attachment 577498

Wow. Clean as a whistle.

Where do you get this stuff. Just any good paint store?

And how did you hear about it?

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I have always used Berrymans Chem dip- I have gotten the same results as you when rebuilding old ATV carburetors, although sometimes it takes 2 dips

the stuff in a spray can never works

 

[USMC 00-08]

Where do you get this stuff. Just any good paint store?

And how did you hear about it?

I got it at Sherwin Williams after reading about the ineffective modern day carburetor cleaner and what other people are using on some hotrod forums. This was one of the most highly recommended things to use.

I have always used Berrymans Chem dip- I have gotten the same results as you when rebuilding old ATV carburetors, although sometimes it takes 2 dips

the stuff in a spray can never works

I was using the spray cans at first. Completely worthless for anything except burning your eyes if it happens to get past the safety glasses. I have not tried the Berrymans but will when the stuff I have runs out.

 

[USMC 00-08]

My carburetor is rebuilt. I had to improvise on a couple of seals but it turned out nicely. For the adjustment screws, I had to use rubber grommets and the seal between the bowl and base I used an o ring of similar diameter and thickness as the old brittle seal.


The carburetor was mounted on the truck and it did start. I hope to break out the tach and vacuum gauge and adjust everything tomorrow. The truck is idling higher than 375 RPM, but sounded really good. This truck has always seemed to run better at higher RPM, so hopefully it will run better than before at 375 RPM.

I have really struggled with adjusting the fuel level. The float was set at 7/32" per the TM. When I set it there, the fuel level is about 1/4" too high. The fuel level is supposed to be 1/2" below the machined surface of the body. That leads me to another problem and that is my truck, even on level ground, leans to the back, so the fuel level nearest the cab is higher and the level toward the front is lower. Anyone else run into this issue?

While rebuilding the governor, I noticed that the governor that was originally on the truck had the pin inside set in the #3 position. The manual says the pin is to be in the #1 position. The newly rebuilt governor is set according to the TM. Not sure what this setting will do yet.

Another thing I am wondering about is how the truck starts up. I have read of some trucks starting right up on the first pull of the starter. The trucks I have never have done that and they do not like to stay running until warmed up a little. Is this normal or are these trucks supposed to start right up and idle without being warmed up first?

 

[m1010plowboy]

The trucks I have never have done that and they do not like to stay running until warmed up a little.

I was lucky enough to fire up SuperDave's Re-built M135 one day. I pull the starter and start tapping the throttle, like we do when starting any old GM product.

It starts on half a revolution of course and SuperDave calmly asks,.....always freakishly calm when he's talking mechanical...."What are you doing?"

I could feel the blood flushing my face as I explained how mine liked to be kicked in the throttle for a minute before it would idle. His reply was...... "No", "Pull starter, let idle".

One of the reasons for a rough idle is different compression and if the valves are set, rings could be next.

Wish I could help on the carb. You'll be a carb wizard before I even begin putting new parts back in mine. It's been running so good for 5 years now I'm afraid to touch it. I would like to pull the top and see how you're measuring that fuel depth if you can talk me through the process. I'd say we need to ignore the truck and get the bowl level to get accurate......I gotta look at mine now because I always thought things sat level.

That clean-up is spectacular so I'm really hoping this doesn't cause you any more problems so we can go cruisin' Friday and show it off.

You're so close now it's gotta be good seeing how much you've got done.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I would like to pull the top and see how you're measuring that fuel depth if you can talk me through the process.

That clean-up is spectacular so I'm really hoping this doesn't cause you any more problems so we can go cruisin' Friday and show it off.

You're so close now it's gotta be good seeing how much you've got done.

I'd be glad to talk you through the process whenever you are ready. I have some good pictures of how to do it in the carburetor TM. I'll try to get that posted up soon.

I went out to tune the carburetor this evening and my Tach/dwell meter decided not to work, so now I am back in a holding pattern.

Does anyone know where to get a tach/dwell meter that is compatible with a 24v system? I am just not seeing them when I search online. I have the military test adapter kit.

 

[SturmTyger380]

I have an inductive tach/dwell meter. I connect the power to one of the batteries and the sensor to the plug wire adapter I have. My timing light works the same way.

 

[USMC 00-08]

What tach/dwell meter do you have? I am going to try to find one when I get off work today.

 

[SturmTyger380]

They are Suntune models, I got them back in the 80's. I took a quick look online and can find inductive timing lights but not tach/dwell meters. (Maybe a used one could be found?) But I did find and attachment for a Fluke electrical meter to allow it to measure dwell - Fluke RPM80 Inductive pickup external trigger. Uh Oh - I think I just found something I can't live without!

http://en-us.fluke.com/products/all-accessories/fluke-rpm80.html

Features
The RPM80 Inductive Pickup accessory allows the Fluke 78 to measure engine RPM via the secondary ignition impulses in the spark plug wires.
It features a selection for DIS or conventional systems.
The RPM80 Inductive Pickup converts the magnetic field created by the current in the spark plug wire to a pulse that triggers an RPM measurement.
To measure RPM using the pickup, attach the probe to any accessible sparkplug wire and select the normal (1) or DIS (2) setting to read the correct RPM for the engine you are working on.

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/ieen/digital-multimeters/fluke-78.htm?pid=56130

 

[USMC 00-08]

I searched all over for a tach/dwell meter today. No one but the older guys knew what I was talking about. There were none in stock locally and all were over $100. I ended up finding this military tach and dwell tester online and bought it. Looks like it will be next week before I adjust anything.

 

[Another Ahab]

I searched all over for a tach/dwell meter today. No one but the older guys knew what I was talking about. There were none in stock locally and all were over $100. I ended up finding this military tach and dwell tester online and bought it. Looks like it will be next week before I adjust anything.
View attachment 578222View attachment 578223

Was the cost decent?

 

[USMC 00-08]

It was a little under $63 shipped. I hope this is the right one. I looked through my TM's and searched online for what was supposed to be used with these trucks, but found nothing.

 

[Another Ahab]

It was a little under $63 shipped. I hope this is the right one. I looked through my TM's and searched online for what was supposed to be used with these trucks, but found nothing.

Seems reasonable. Nothing bad about that.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Check Your Bumpers!

Today I was out at my parts trucks and some stampings on the top driver side of the bumper of #556 caught my eye. A closer look showed that some of the numbers are the registration number that is on the hood! (41121215)


Out of curiosity, I went over to truck #3194 that has no visible hood markings and sure enough it has similar stamped markings and the hood registration number in nearly the same place! (41122836)


I had never noticed this on any other trucks before and I need to check the other two that I have.

Anyone else seen this on yours?

 

[metal magnet 1963]

The work continues on my M135. I had the brake shoes relined locally and am waiting on wheel cylinder boots to come in so that I can put everything back together.

I the mean time. I found two more M135s that were about to be scrapped and added them to my collection. Here they are....
View attachment 522562View attachment 522563View attachment 522564View attachment 522565View attachment 522566View attachment 522567View attachment 522568

They will be used as a parts source for my other two since I don't think they are restorable. As soon as I get a replacement for my camera that just quit, I will post more pictures.

I know this is an old post, but have to say you did right, save the old iron!!! I do the same thing.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I try to whenever I can find them. These trucks are not very easy to find in my area.

 

[Another Ahab]

I try to whenever I can find them. These trucks are not very easy to find in my area.

I wouldn't expect that they're easy to find in ANY area. I mean I can't recall ever seeing any around this area. But, I know I might be wrong.

 

[metal magnet 1963]

Saving the remaining few.

I try to whenever I can find them. These trucks are not very easy to find in my area.

There are some still around, but either people are getting wise to the scarcity of the type, or are just plain greedy, but the prices for the condition you find them in is really starting to creep up fast. Last one in my yard cost $2500.00 plus delivery, and although in better than average shape and is reasonably functional, still was more than I was wishing to spend. BUT, you have to act on it or walk, and kick yourself after. I heard through "the vine" of a place where one person has ten trucks, and enough parts to BUILD ten more!!! He bought a large lot from a nearby base, and from what I've heard still has it all. I will be knocking on his door sometime in the future, and see just what is what. From there I will let everyone here in on what is really available. BUT REMEMBER, this is word of mouth, don't get excited just yet. I tracked down one truck this past week on my last weeks holidays, (posted pictures) it was sold, (maybe?) so I told him if it was still here next year, I'm going for it, because of the winch and parts I need. I told him I bought all the trucks I'm able to this year, the "kitty" is dry. I have had people want to buy all my trucks, running or not, so there is interest out there. Hope to see more people restore some, and drive them, not butcher them.

 

[metal magnet 1963]

Bumper Markings

Today I was out at my parts trucks and some stampings on the top driver side of the bumper of #556 caught my eye. A closer look showed that some of the numbers are the registration number that is on the hood! (41121215)
View attachment 578487View attachment 578548

Out of curiosity, I went over to truck #3194 that has no visible hood markings and sure enough it has similar stamped markings and the hood registration number in nearly the same place! (41122836)
View attachment 578489View attachment 578488View attachment 578553

I had never noticed this on any other trucks before and I need to check the other two that I have.

Anyone else seen this on yours?

I will as soon as possible, I don't know if in Canada they did the same practice, but I'll scrape and see!