Why are CUCV prices so much higher that Civi Chevs

[CUCVLOVER]

View attachment 581825View attachment 581826Just got this M-1028A1 (same as a 1008 it seems) on bid in our village for $670.00. Looked it over and as a somewhat mechanic I believe the millage is correct (7,54. Underside, exhaust and engine parts are somewhat like new. Just signs of sitting. Our City (250 max people) gets these military rigs to use out here and this one they decided they didn't want. No one bid on it first time around cause they saw the air cleaner off and thought the carburetor and top of engine was missing (don't have much CUCV bid competition here). Soon as I saw that millage I quietly bid second time around and got it. So now I'm a CUCV forum junky as I need to fix it up and keep it running. My old 73 International finally bit the dust so this is much needed for hauling wood and fish etc. Only got 20-30 miles of road here but all gravel and dirt so need a tough truck. Like your site and very helpful info. Been looking all over. Stan Z up in Tanana, Alaska

Sweet ride.

Welcome, from the lower 48..

 

[reaper556]

View attachment 581825View attachment 581826Just got this M-1028A1 (same as a 1008 it seems) on bid in our village for $670.00. Looked it over and as a somewhat mechanic I believe the millage is correct (7,54. Underside, exhaust and engine parts are somewhat like new. Just signs of sitting. Our City (250 max people) gets these military rigs to use out here and this one they decided they didn't want. No one bid on it first time around cause they saw the air cleaner off and thought the carburetor and top of engine was missing (don't have much CUCV bid competition here). Soon as I saw that millage I quietly bid second time around and got it. So now I'm a CUCV forum junky as I need to fix it up and keep it running. My old 73 International finally bit the dust so this is much needed for hauling wood and fish etc. Only got 20-30 miles of road here but all gravel and dirt so need a tough truck. Like your site and very helpful info. Been looking all over. Stan Z up in Tanana, Alaska

The odometer has been changed at some point in that trucks life

 

[2deuce]

Looks good! I know we all would like to find a deal like that. One thing I have noticed with GSA auction sales is that they now hide the detractors from the photo's. They used to be more up front, but the photo's were never good. At least that is my experience lately. Anybody else notice this? It may vary by region, I'm curious what others think or experience.

 

[stanzuray]

Sorry guys that smiley face kept getting put in place of the millage until I saw the check box to stop it. 7,548 miles.

 

[al2ndWolfhounds]

View attachment 581825View attachment 581826Just got this M-1028A1 (same as a 1008 it seems) on bid in our village for $670.00. Looked it over and as a somewhat mechanic I believe the millage is correct (7,54. Underside, exhaust and engine parts are somewhat like new. Just signs of sitting. Our City (250 max people) gets these military rigs to use out here and this one they decided they didn't want. No one bid on it first time around cause they saw the air cleaner off and thought the carburetor and top of engine was missing (don't have much CUCV bid competition here). Soon as I saw that millage I quietly bid second time around and got it. So now I'm a CUCV forum junky as I need to fix it up and keep it running. My old 73 International finally bit the dust so this is much needed for hauling wood and fish etc. Only got 20-30 miles of road here but all gravel and dirt so need a tough truck. Like your site and very helpful info. Been looking all over. Stan Z up in Tanana, Alaska

I don't know as much about these trucks as most on this forum but isn't this a M1031?

 

[stanzuray]

I don't know as much about these trucks as most on this forum but isn't this a M1031?

You apparently know more than I. Just went over all the plates on the truck and came upon this one that says Chassis Cab M1031. Thank you this clears up a lot. This is why I 'm here - to learn. Stan

 

[cucvrus]

That is a million mile odometer. So the entire speedometer has been changed at one time. Good find but just to keep it straight the CUCV's came with 100,000 mile odometers. NOT million mile odometers. I have seen many of these million mile replacement speedometers. I bought one M1009 at a scrap sale that had 0000060.3 miles on it. It was a rusted old 1986 M1009 and the transmission was broken and the rear main seal on the engine was packed with mud and dirt from leaking for so long. I doubt the mileage was accurate even if it had been 1,000,060.3 that would have been amazing. Good find and excellent purchase price. I know they are out there I come across them more often than not. Carburetor missing that's a god one. I was at gas station filling up and a guy came up and asked me if he could see my engine. I obliged him and he told me how the spark plug wires were in them thin metal lines and that he used to changed them spark plugs and wires all the time when he was in the Army. I said they are not spark plugs this is a Diesel. He said I don't give a darn what you say I changed them spark plugs and wires on hundreds of them trucks when I was in Vietnam. OK enough said. I thanked him for his service and left him standing at the door to the gas station. He was still thinking he knew what he was talking about and was telling his friend and wife when I drove away.

 

[ODFever]

Welcome to Steel Soldiers, Mr. Zuray! You got a great deal on that 1031! Your name sounds familiar to me. Are you one of the gentlemen on a certain cable show that highlights the challenges of life in rural Alaska?

 

[Gunzy]

The M1031 may actually have only 7548 miles. There are several ways to tell. Cleanliness of engine, engine bay and trans, take a look at the pedals as 100k+ will show a lot of wear, and look over the bottom of the truck closely. A truck with 100k+ miles will look the part, even from the military. I also have an M1031 Contact truck with just under 7K miles and I have thoroughly inspected it. I know the milage is correct and the odo/speed is original to the truck. Yes guages get changed on Mil vehicles, but it is rare on the CUCVs as they don't have the failures the 2 1/2 and 5 tons do. As far as "Million Mile" odos, no try again, they go to 100K then role over on '80s Chevys.

 

[cucvrus]

As far as "Million Mile" odos, no try again, they go to 100K then role over on '80s Chevys.
I must agree with this statement but the speedometer that is being shown is a million mile speedometer, odometer set up.I have several of them that I removed from CUCV's they are the replacements that were sent when the speedometer needed replaced. Trust me a I have a few of them in my parts collection. They are the same speedometers that are in the GM medium duty trucks from the same model years. They work just fine. I was just stating that the speedometer was not the OEM one for the CUCV line of trucks. It was an excellent find and that is all that counts on the buyer's end. Shame is i have seen several on these vehicles go to the crusher because townships,fire stations, police departments and municipalities were not allowed to sell them. The state never came back for them and they ended up being cannibalized and then the majority of the vehicle was just crushed. I have seen the destruction first hand. Sad but true. Good luck with your find that is a very desirable vehicle to have as a snow plow truck in my work. I had a few like it and sold them in the past. Thank you for sharing the pictures.

 

[Mercunimog404]

That is a million mile odometer. So the entire speedometer has been changed at one time. Good find but just to keep it straight the CUCV's came with 100,000 mile odometers. NOT million mile odometers. I have seen many of these million mile replacement speedometers. I bought one M1009 at a scrap sale that had 0000060.3 miles on it. It was a rusted old 1986 M1009 and the transmission was broken and the rear main seal on the engine was packed with mud and dirt from leaking for so long. I doubt the mileage was accurate even if it had been 1,000,060.3 that would have been amazing. Good find and excellent purchase price. I know they are out there I come across them more often than not. Carburetor missing that's a god one. I was at gas station filling up and a guy came up and asked me if he could see my engine. I obliged him and he told me how the spark plug wires were in them thin metal lines and that he used to changed them spark plugs and wires all the time when he was in the Army. I said they are not spark plugs this is a Diesel. He said I don't give a darn what you say I changed them spark plugs and wires on hundreds of them trucks when I was in Vietnam. OK enough said. I thanked him for his service and left him standing at the door to the gas station. He was still thinking he knew what he was talking about and was telling his friend and wife when I drove away.

That picture is not of a million Mike odometer. That last digit which is a different color is a tenths.

 

[Recovry4x4]

That picture is not of a million Mike odometer. That last digit which is a different color is a tenths.

They are often referred to as million mile speedos. 007547.3 is what it reads in the pic. The factory speedo rolls over at 100,000 miles, the pictured one rolls over at a million. So I guess technically it's a 999,999.9 speedo and the original is 99,999.9 speedo. And since we are being hypercritical, I know it's an odometer but the odo is part of the speedometer.

 

[cucvrus]

007547.3=
999999.9+ 1/10 of a mile will turn the odometer back to 000000.0 Unless I am loosing my mind that is 1,000,000 miles.

 

[Mercunimog404]

They are often referred to million mile speedos. 007547.3 is what it reads in the pic. The factory speedo rolls over at 100,000 miles, the pictured one rolls over at a million. So I guess technically it's a 999,999.9 speedo and the original is 99,999.9 speedo.

**** you're right. I missed the digit all the way to the left.

 

[Mercunimog404]

007547.3=
999999.9+ 1/10 of a mile will turn the odometer back to 000000.0 Unless I am loosing my mind that is 1,000,000 miles.

You're right I missed the digit all the way to the left. It's early

 

[stanzuray]

Just thanks for all the ideas. It's how we learn and especially me as I try to figure out the truck. At a fish camp now and away from truck but maybe when I get to my village I'll take some pics of the underside and normal heavy wear places like pedals and see what you think. A lot of experience on this forum and appreciate it. Do have a picture of engine compartment. Real dusty but no oil anywhere and underside of motor not a drop either so hoping for the low millage. It's got all the diesel engine and cab heaters on it so it's set up for the cold. I run the town snow grader etc. each winter and do mechanic work around diesels so some experience with what millage does to engines. Can't wait to work on it. Stan
And please don't hold it against me but yes I'm on an Alaskan reality show called Yukon Men. It 4th season premiered 2 days ago but didn't get to see it. Got a Sat Dish at camp for email/internet but no TV.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Just thanks for all the ideas. It's how we learn and especially me as I try to figure out the truck. At a fish camp now and away from truck but maybe when I get to my village I'll take some pics of the underside and normal heavy wear places like pedals and see what you think. A lot of experience on this forum and appreciate it. View attachment 581913Do have a picture of engine compartment. Real dusty but no oil anywhere and underside of motor not a drop either so hoping for the low millage. It's got all the diesel engine and cab heaters on it so it's set up for the cold. I run the town snow grader etc. each winter and do mechanic work around diesels so some experience with what millage does to engines. Can't wait to work on it. Stan
And please don't hold it against me but yes I'm on an Alaskan reality show called Yukon Men. It 4th season premiered 2 days ago but didn't get to see it. Got a Sat Dish at camp for email/internet but no TV.

The engine looks clean.
I won't hold nothing against you, I think it's cool we have a real live celebrity on here.
I can tell you it might do some good to to post a :new member thread.
Welcome again

 

[tim292stro]

Just thanks for all the ideas. It's how we learn and especially me as I try to figure out the truck. At a fish camp now and away from truck but maybe when I get to my village I'll take some pics of the underside and normal heavy wear places like pedals and see what you think. A lot of experience on this forum and appreciate it...

...Real dusty but no oil anywhere and underside of motor not a drop either so hoping for the low millage...

...And please don't hold it against me but yes I'm on an Alaskan reality show called Yukon Men...

Welcome, and don't worry too much about judgement here - we're all nuts

If you don't see a lot of frame and lower body rust, it may just be that it sat in a shop/garage on a base somewhere (not on dirt or gravel where moisture evaporate up from the ground and condenses on the underside of the truck) and it may never have been used.

One of the things you have to worrying about with older trucks with low miles is not the leaks now, but the leaks that happen after being run for a while. Gaskets and rubber parts are meant to be flexed a bit during their service life, on a 30 year old truck with potentially that low of miles, best case is that truck did less than 3/4 of a mile a day - it may not have also gotten up to operating temperature very often (if at all). For oil to prevent rust inside the engine, it needs to circulate and coat things, and the higher temperature will evaporate water. That thin coating of oil on the inside components displaces water, and prevents moisture from being in contact with the oil coated surface. If your rubber and gaskets have been sitting in exactly the same position for a decade, and you start demanding flex out of those parts, they will rupture and start leaking. Think of what a tire looks like on a spare rm after sitting for five years...

Interesting to note, that picture you have of the engine compartment has an auto-throttle actuator, like what we'd expect to see in an M1031 Contact Maintenance Truck. Can you take a picture of the data-plate in the driver's side door? Does your truck have dual rear wheels? You may have a mix-n-match truck (either engine swap, or someone swapped a lot more parts).

We discovered an assembled from parts Blazer (M1009) in England recently, no matter what it is or was, you're welcome to show it and get help here.

 

[stanzuray]

. I have learned from the guys here that it is a M1031 and sure enough a data plate confirms. Just has single wheels. Only thing (besides battery's missing) is something not connected and loose called the vacuum regulating valve on the injector pump and the vacuum lines to it. Maybe it was broken but looks simple and okay?? Ya I expect there will be some frustrating times and surprise leaks. This is the fun part fixing it in my head. Checking on that Auto throttle actuator. Basically trying to learn as much as possible now so when I get able to work on it I can be efficient as winter is coming and hard to work on then. Thanks, Stan

 

[ODFever]

Mr. Zuray - I think it's absolutely AWESOME that you joined our community! I sincerely respect and admire your way of life. I'm thankful you are on a show that educates the rest of the world about the importance of living off of the land and respecting nature (at least that's what I get out of it). I've never been to Alaska. One of my dreams is to visit. My father-in-law was stationed at a base in Alaska, and has showed me LOTS of pictures and told me LOTS of stories of the fun he had.

Also, I know how 'fun' it is to replace the vacuum booster on an Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 Rocket in -20 degree temperatures. My fingers froze to the bolts and ripped skin off. This is one of many reasons why I escaped the cold and moved to Florida!!

OK, enough rambling.

The vacuum regulator valve is attached to the injector pump. It controls the amount of vacuum sent to the transmission, which aids in shifting. You can run the truck without it by running the vacuum lines directly to the transmission. Doing so causes the transmission to shift very early. I ran my truck like this for a while, but it's probably not too good for the drive train as it causes the engine to lug. Running the truck without any vacuum hooked up to the transmission causes very hard shifting at very high RPMs (shifts from second to third at 50-55MPH). Don't run the truck like this. I recommend installing a new regulator valve. They break, and there's a reason why the one on your truck was disconnected. Here is a thread that will help you:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50568-CUCV-Throttle-Vacuum-Valve-Adjustment

Before you start up that beast, please do the following:
- Read all of the stickies and the threads in the CUCV Forum.
- Download all of the Technical Manuals (TM's) and read them. They are loaded with detailed instructions on how to repair your truck.
- Replace all of the vacuum lines. Don't forget to replace the short piece of hose on the side of the transmission that connects the steel line to the vacuum modulator.
- Replace the radiator hoses.
- Replace the heater hoses.
- Replace the rubber fuel lines and the fuel filter.