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Mike82ndABN

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Tampa/Florida
I was curious what brand/weight everyone is running in their trucks, preferences and opinions

Engine Oil - 15-40w
Transmission - DexronIII? Synthetic?
Transfer case - DexronIII? Synthetic?
Differentials - 80-90w (synthetic?)
Hubs - 80-90w (synthetic?)
Grease fittings - ?

Brake -
Power Steering -
 

gcbennet

Member
221
7
18
Location
Trenton, ON
I have been using Amsoil synthetic and it works great. Only now my truck drips way more than it used to. The mess of drip spots it leaves behind everywhere i park and added expense of having to top-up on a regular basis is pushing me towards going back to the less expensive dino.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
I was curious what brand/weight everyone is running in their trucks, preferences and opinions

Engine Oil - 15-40w
Transmission - DexronIII? Synthetic?
Transfer case - DexronIII? Synthetic?
Differentials - 80-90w (synthetic?)
Hubs - 80-90w (synthetic?)
Grease fittings - ?

Brake -
Power Steering -

follow the Lube Order....the military has gotten away with using non synthetic for how many years?
IMHO, it's a waste of money....stick with Dino oil...
 

KansasBobcat

Member
641
8
18
Location
San Antonio, TX
I use Rotella 15W40 in all my diesels.Dexron III; 80-90 nonsynthetic. Decided on nonsynthetic in M998 due to age, military lube, and storys about leaks after switching to synthetics. However, have always used synthetics in H1 since new. Also used non-Fram, more expensive oil filters...pick your favorite.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
22
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
I use Rotella 15W40 in all my diesels.Dexron III; 80-90 nonsynthetic. Decided on nonsynthetic in M998 due to age, military lube, and storys about leaks after switching to synthetics. However, have always used synthetics in H1 since new. Also used non-Fram, more expensive oil filters...pick your favorite.
+1, I chose the valvoline 80w-90 only because its probably a little better than the store brand.
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Fargo ND
on every truck I own all the way up to an M920 I run Rotella 15w40 NON SYNTHETIC, I once tried running synthetic in my Deuce and what was said earlier concerning drips is 100% correct, I drained the synthetic and put rotella NON SYNTHETIC in all 99% of all the drips stopped. I have never tried synthetic in another military truck again, and besides that based upon the amount of actual driving these vehicles get I found synthetic to be a waste of money!
KK
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
223
10
0
Location
Tampa/Florida
Changed out most of the fluids today.

Engine Oil - Rotella 15w40 (was low, only about 6 quarts came out). Purolator 34631. I had some water drain out when I took off the old filter, no idea if that means I have coolant contamination issues or what but it was not mixed and milky looking, it was just a small amount of plain water drizzling out as I unscrewed the old one, then came the oil trapped in the filter housing.

ATF - I didn't touch the ATF because it was at the correct level, and nice and red and does not smell burned, I will save this for another day when I do the transmission filter.

Transfer case - Dexron III (was low, only about 3 quarts came out, I couldn't touch the top of the fluid from the fill hole with my finger.) The stuff that came out was bright red and did not smelled burned. Refilled with a gallon.

***Front Diff - Gear oil came out the moment I opened the fill port, it was overfilled which seems impossible unless I have some vampire issues with the vent tube? Replaced with Valvoline 80-90w, liquid pipe thread sealant on the plugs

Rear Diff - Valvoline 80-90w, liquid pipe thread sealant on the plugs

Hubs - I will definitely be buying an impact wrench for the lug nuts, that was about 30 minutes of fun per wheel. The hubs didn't have leaks around the covers as best as I could tell, and they all had fluid in them still except the left rear which had a loose drain plug and was only about half full. I used a liquid pipe thread sealant on the drain plugs.

Drained a pint of fuel from the petcock valve, came out very yellow, no water, just yellow and clear.

Discovered that I have a rear ball joint on some control arm that is shot, the wheel wiggles left to right. I have also saw a bolt that is loose on the front end of part of a driveshaft, inside the yoke.
 
Last edited:

fnpurist

New member
187
2
0
Location
BR,LA
I couldn't believe the amount of torque it took to unscrew the lug nuts even once the mechanical weld was broken on the taper. I just changed the oil in all my hubs too and the POS harbor frieght electric impact almost caught fire haha I used valvoline 80 90 as well. I just did the fuel filter today and only have to do the coolant, power steering and brakes to be done with the fluids. My front differential oozed a little oil out too when I took the full plug out
 

fnpurist

New member
187
2
0
Location
BR,LA
Also if your looking for grease to get locally then go with a lithium complex. It's compatible with the gaa calcium based grease the mil uses. I went with Lucas red and tacky grease but I hear mobil makes a good one also
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
223
10
0
Location
Tampa/Florida
Yea tomorrow I will pressure wash all the crud off the suspension, underbody and wheel wells, then I plan on hitting the grease points. I saw the red tacky grease today at the store and will probably go with that, thanks for the info because I didn't see any of the GAA stuff.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,556
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113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Engine, Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic. Trans & Transfer. NAPA 90wt. GL-1. Diffs, Valvoline 80-90 non-synthetic. Grease Fittings, Lucas green or tacky red. Brakes DOT 5. Power Steering......I wish.
 

JaJohnson911

New member
3
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0
Location
Cypress, Tx
Transfer case fluid is milky...no leaks that I've seen. Live in Houston and house flooded so had to use 998 to relocate fam. Any ideas how water might have been able to penetrate?
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Possibly the vent on top of the transfer case. Reach up from the left side, it's on top right above the shift shaft. It's small and round with a wobbly cap, and sticks up about a 1/4 in. Happy to hear you got the family out!!
 

JaJohnson911

New member
3
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Location
Cypress, Tx
Possibly the vent on top of the transfer case. Reach up from the left side, it's on top right above the shift shaft. It's small and round with a wobbly cap, and sticks up about a 1/4 in. Happy to hear you got the family out!!
Thamx a bunch for the quick reply!

Is it normal for the it to leak when on deep water? If so, guess it's best to always drain the fluids after fording?
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,556
13,941
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Thamx a bunch for the quick reply!

Is it normal for the it to leak when on deep water? If so, guess it's best to always drain the fluids after fording?
It can be a problem. You also have vents on all 3 axles, and on your transmission. The vents on your rear axle housings are on the top r/h side & front axle top l/h side. The trans vent is on the front of the top cover, just in front of the shifter. Check your vents to make sure they haven't become clogged with crud, (easy to remove) and change your transfer case oil. If it looks like your transmission, and axles have picked up water change their oil as well. Also it sounds like your truck was in deep water, so be safe, and check your engine oil & fuel tank for water. Some of our off road members may want to chip in as well.
 
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