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Solenoid in stead of relay?

oppossumdad1

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Gentlemen. I just picked a rig ( blazer) it has a 12 volt conversion but only 1 battery connected. It also has some solinoid mounted where the glow plug relay is suppose to be. It started and ran fine when I picked it up but I could never hear the relay click. Would a solinoid also make the click sound? My wait light wasn't coming on until today. I'm kinda lost here because from what I have read, the reason for putting on the solenoid on would be for a manual switch. Any help would be appreciated I can post pic if I figure out how
 

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Warthog

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Are you sure the GP system is functioning correctly? There is a test section in the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual. There are also a bunch of posts for the GP system in the Helpful Threads sticky. (got to be too many stickies so we combined them all in to one)

The relay that is installed looks to be a good replacement. There is a possibility that it is not functioning correctly
 
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tim292stro

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Easiest way to tell is to measure the big lugs to see if there is a voltage between the two when the engine is switched off, and no voltage between the two right after the engine is switched to run. If nothing happens, do the same check again, but measure the small terminals - no voltage on the small terminals means you need to start looking at the glow plug controller card and wiring.

Yeah, a solenoid can be a big relay based on sales literature - Solenoid is actually french for a tightly wound coil of wire, what the solenoid actuates (a metal rod pulling in a contact plate, or a swinging plate making a direct contact) usually makes it a high-power relay.

Take a look at this site's variety of high-current relays/solenoids, a valid relay for the glow plug can look like just about anything on that page, so long as it's rated for the current (>150Amps). I am not affiliated with that site, but it has the best picture list of just about every variety of automotive relay I have ever found.
 

doghead

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That is a relay on your firewall.

Too often the terms solenoid and relay are used incorrectly(interchanged). As you found, even in a website description.

A relay and a solenoid do two very different jobs.

A relay is in essence a switch with two positions, on and off. A solenoid, meanwhile, enables mechanical components to physically move and change position, for example, a starter motor engaging a flywheel.

http://www.trombetta.com/

Notice the manufacturers site actually refers to them as contactors! (not relay)
 
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Recovry4x4

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I have used that type of relay in one of my trucks. It was there for a couple of years before I switched it out.
 

Mainsail

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That looks like the same solenoid I'm using to switch my landing lights- a relay couldn't handle the 900 watt load.
 

oppossumdad1

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Gentlemen. I just picked a rig ( blazer) it has a 12 volt conversion but only 1 battery connected. It also has some solinoid mounted where the glow plug relay is suppose to be. It started and ran fine when I picked it up but I could never hear the relay click. Would a solinoid also make the click sound? My wait light wasn't coming on until today. I'm kinda lost here because from what I have read, the reason for putting on the solenoid on would be for a manual switch. Any help would be appreciated I can post pic if I figure out how
Updated: put the same relay on it. Found it at a parts store. Cleaned all connections while I was at it. Took a minute to pray. Turned key on, waited a few seconds and she busted right off. Thanks for the help gentlemen. I will read up on all the threads to better educate myself before asking questions. Still learning to navigate here. Love this rig! Drove a few in the army and loved them then too. Now, on to the hard shifting threads for study time. Thanks again guys
 

tim292stro

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Glad to hear it worked out, don't be afraid to ask questions. You may get inundated with information if you ask a question, but we'll walk you into an answer eventually.

Follow-up question, did the wait light start working? If not, that would be the next thing to chase down - it's your "proof" that the glow plug controller is at least thinking about functioning. [thumbzup]
 

oppossumdad1

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Glad to hear it worked out, don't be afraid to ask questions. You may get inundated with information if you ask a question, but we'll walk you into an answer eventually.

Follow-up question, did the wait light start working? If not, that would be the next thing to chase down - it's your "proof" that the glow plug controller is at least thinking about functioning. [thumbzup]
The light did not come on this time. Guess I'll have to start reading up on that next
 
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oppossumdad1

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sallisaw, ok
Updated: put the same relay on it. Found it at a parts store. Cleaned all connections while I was at it. Took a minute to pray. Turned key on, waited a few seconds and she busted right off. Thanks for the help gentlemen. I will read up on all the threads to better educate myself before asking questions. Still learning to navigate here. Love this rig! Drove a few in the army and loved them then too. Now, on to the hard shifting threads for study time. Thanks again guys
update2 well evidently that didn't fix the problem.no start this morning but hey, the light is coming on for about 5 seconds
 
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Warthog

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Make sure you read and watch the video in the GP Operation thread. (listed in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky) It will help you understand how the system works.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62477-GP-Module-Theory-of-Operation

You will also want to read the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual for a non-operational glow plug system. It has a step-by-step procedure to troubleshoot the system

One of the first steps is to check the plugs themselves. All you need is a ohmmeter (or multi-meter).

Owning a CUCV (or any MV for that matter) requires some basic tools. For me three of the most important ones are:

1) voltmeter/ohmmeter (Just about anywhere for $10-$20. No need for a $100 unit)
2) battery load tester ($20 at Harbor Freight)
3) know how to use both of them

I use each on a weekly basis. One of the first things listed in the tech manuals is " Do not start any electrical work until your batteries are fully charged (and I like to add "and load tested"). This is sound advise as I can not tell you how many times a battery has dies overnight.
 
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oppossumdad1

New member
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Location
sallisaw, ok
Make sure you read and watch the video in the GP Operation thread. (listed in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky) It will help you understand how the system works.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62477-GP-Module-Theory-of-Operation

You will also want to read the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual for a non-operational glow plug system. It has a step-by-step procedure to troubleshoot the system

One of the first steps is to check the plugs themselves. All you need is a voltmeter (or multi-meter).

Owning a CUCV (or any MV for that matter) requires some basic tools. For me three of the most important ones are:

1) voltmeter (Just about anywhere for $10-$20. No need for a $100 unit)
2) battery load tester ($20 at Harbor Freight)
3) know how to use both of them

I use each on a weekly basis. One of the first things listed in the tech manuals is " Do not start any electrical work until your batteries are fully charged (and I like to add "and load tested"). This is sound advise as I can not tell you how many times a battery has dies overnight.
Thanks for the info warthog I will read and watch video when I can get back to a computer. Seems there is no audible click from the relay. The gp light comes on for about 7 seconds and it won't start unless it's about eighty degrees out. I will try to learn how to use the volt meter check to see if plugs are working, go thru and do the card test and just keep trying until I get er done
 

tim292stro

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Try a screw into sheetmetal to see if that works - the blue wire you spliced into may in fact be the problem from the original glow system - bad grounds abound on these old trucks.
 
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