Cucv m1009 won't start....Electrical?

[SgtHaas]

So this problem has started when it's been cool in the mornings(damp or dewy out). My batteries are charged(new) connections are tight, all fused are good. Can't find any ground issues, my dash lights are dim. The starter doesn't even click. Voltage meter needle isn't showing any power. This is my D.D. any help would be appreciated.

 

[Cantos]

Hi,
If there are mor than 3Glowplugs damaged, the 6.2 will not start.

 

[joshuak]

Hi SgtHaas, I would start by having your batteries load tested, many auto parts stores do it at no cost.

 

[SgtHaas]

Hi SgtHaas, I would start by having your batteries load tested, many auto parts stores do it at no cost.

I just did last weekend and both are at factory standards,(925cca) 12.73v. Its only in the morning during damp or wet mornings (fall here in Maine now 45°-55° in the mornings) starts fine every other time during the day.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Hmmm. Cool, damp mornings = electrical problem. I'm still suspicious of your grounds, or perhaps your cables. Do check your starter relay. Also verify that the key switch is doing its thing properly.


Remember that a voltmeter might show the correct voltage when a circuit has no load on it, but there might be a high resistance (from corrosion) upstream that will prevent current from flowing. Test things both loaded an unloaded when possible. When it's not possible, invent a way. Test lights are better at showing such problems than voltmeters.

 

[SgtHaas]

Hmmm. Cool, damp mornings = electrical problem. I'm still suspicious of your grounds, or perhaps your cables. Do check your starter relay.

I will have to go back over all of them. I wish it was in the garage .... Would make things easier. I will have to check the starter relay . where is that located?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Under the dash. Look up the "doghead modification" in the stickies and you'll get a ton of info on it.

 

[Warthog]

You may also want to split the wiring harness at the firewall. One bolt in the center and it will
split. Get a can of Electrical Contact cleaner and an old toothbrush and go to town cleaning the contacts. GM used a grease that over the years turns to a black goo.

 

[SgtHaas]

Well I replaced all the battery connectors, put new wires and connectors on the bus bar both - & + also new bus bar copper plates, replaced all the glow plug wires, cleaned all grounds (that was painful) cleaned all the connections on the alternators, took apart the fuse b9x assembly and cleaned the contacts and added electric lube alux to every connection (that was a lot) replaced alot of wiring recharged both batteries during the process. NOW GUESS WHAT....... IT STARTS LIKE NEW NOT A HICK UP!!! HURRAY! !!! . Pretty much a whole new electrical system by now.... lol thanks for the help to the other members.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Glad you got it going. (just now spotted thread)
Sometimes you just have to keep slinging on new parts until it works.

 

[tim292stro]

Important to know is that the insulation that protects the wire from corrosion by resisting the passage or oxygen and moisture has a design life of only 20-50 years. For a mid-80's GM now in 2015, it's past half way to the "ideal" life-span, or 11-years overdue for failure, depending on care and usage (yes, mudding or fording rivers, or parking it in a field for ten years without moving it is not healthy for longevity).

You will see the mantra "check your grounds, clean any corrosion, test and repair your wires" as if it was an oft repeated prayer as a result

Modern cars with all of those fancy electronics are in for worse life expectancy, components like electrolytic capacitors have a design life of 10 years, and when they fail they can leak electrolyte that eats circuit boards causing the whole assembly to fail (usually at immense expense to replace). Ask me how I know