And so the MV madness begins...bought a M1009

[alpine44]

Last weekend, I acquired my first MV, a M1009 from a guy in Oakland, CA

After helping a friend retrieve two M939 series trucks from GL and driving them home for a couple hundred miles I decided that I would need something more daily-commute friendly.




I am going to break up the related question into several post to make replying easier.
Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.

 

[alpine44]

M1009 Body:

The truck came from a depot in Arizona, then lived in SFO, and never saw salt. Therefore, the body is in great shape. No rust holes other than the infamous tailgate "vent" at the bottom.

What is the best way to fix the tailgate? New gate (who has one for sale?), reskin the existing one (who sells skins that fit?), or just a patch (I have welder and skills)?

We will have salt on the roads here in Montana. What is the best way to preserve the frame and body from corrosion?

 

[alpine44]

M1009 Interior and trim:

Some of the weatherstripping is shot from the sun. Who carries replacements?

The front seats are also cracked and peeled from the UV. How well are the OD canvas covers fitting? (Does anyone have photos of them installed?)
An alternative would be to buy the more costly, black vinyl recover set they sell for Camaros with the same seats. Did anyone try those?

 

[alpine44]

M1009 Engine:

The PO included a turbo kit to fit the 6.2L. I am torn between mounting the turbo kit on the existing engine (and waiting till it blows) or building a new engine from a running takeout that was manufactured in the 90s. A lot of parts were improved over the years and I would also add the reinforcement girdle between the main caps. With that, plus improved timing chain components, and a new harmonic balancer there would be less of a chance that the turbo'd engine grenades.

Please share your experiences with turbocharging the 80s 6.2L and building an enhanced 6.2L with turbo.

 

[alpine44]

M1009 Driveline:

The PO changed the rear axle to a 14 bolt 10.5" dia FF 8-lug axle with 4.10 ratio and a matching 10 bolt 8-lug front. The springs were changed to 4" lift springs (no blocks) and the truck rolls on 16x8 alloy rims. I am planning to mount 315/75R16 BFG KO2 tires and with those and the 4.10 ratio the truck will be about 10% slower than a stock M1009 at the same rpm. On my way back from SFO (~1000 miles) I will find out how annoying that is.

Two options would bring the truck back to efficient highway cruising:

Changing the diffs to 3.73 or building a 700R4/NP208 to match and survive the torque curve of the diesel engine.
Does anyone have long term experience with a conversion to a 700R4 tranny. On paper, I like the lower first gear and the OD. But who knows how this pans out in real life?

BTW: The truck will be used for off-road exploration in Montana. No serious rock crawling is planned at this point.

 

[KansasBobcat]

LMC truck has most of the parts although some people have not liked the replacement body parts.

 

[alpine44]

LMC truck has most of the parts although some people have not liked the replacement body parts.

Thanks. I did not know about them but they seem to have most parts I would need. Better than dealing with the local GM Stealership.

 

[Assel]

Hey, sweet ride + I like the paint, would fit into the quarry I work in just perfect

I would not put the turbo on yet, get used to your engine and then maybe... I drive mine stock (sometimes daylie) and I like it just how it is.

if you need a new dashcover I´d buy a new one...I just painted mine and ignore the cracks, for new seats I would take some money and go to a professional saddler and have them redone there... (my plan for my M1009)

I wont change to a 700 tranny.... I like the TH-400 ...it was a whole mess inside when I got it and still runs great (changed fluid & filters twice)

for rust prevention there is one big question: how much money do you want to spend? best thing in my opinion is getting rid of all the rust, repaint it from underneath and then cover it with clean wax, not that black goo stuff...you wont see where rust comes up until its too late.

have fun with your rig

 

[alpine44]

Hey, sweet ride + I like the paint, would fit into the quarry I work in just perfect

Yes, it is also very close to the color of the dirt roads here so I do not have to wash it that often.

I would not put the turbo on yet, get used to your engine and then maybe... I drive mine stock (sometimes daylie) and I like it just how it is.

Turbo is supposed to get better mileage - according to Banks.

if you need a new dashcover I´d buy a new one...I just painted mine and ignore the cracks, for new seats I would take some money and go to a professional saddler and have them redone there... (my plan for my M1009)

I wont change to a 700 tranny.... I like the TH-400 ...it was a whole mess inside when I got it and still runs great (changed fluid & filters twice)

for rust prevention there is one big question: how much money do you want to spend? best thing in my opinion is getting rid of all the rust, repaint it from underneath and then cover it with clean wax, not that black goo stuff...you wont see where rust comes up until its too late.

have fun with your rig

Thanks for the suggestions.

I was going to import a Mercedes Wolf from Germany but my retired (!) brother there is just too busy (or too lazy) to be of any help. Do you know someone who has experience with exporting German military vehicles without doubling the price?

(Ich spreche Deutsch falls Du eine PM senden willst)

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Last weekend, I acquired my first MV, a M1009 from a guy in Oakland, CA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0GA6nqw5As

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Good looking truck, have fun with it.
As for the rust just don't drive in the winter.

 

[wheelspinner]

Good looking truck, have fun with it.
As for the rust just don't drive in the winter.

THIS !! I am in (but leaving) the rust belt and there is no preventative that works against salt, especially on these older trucks that just have plain old good steel under them. You can delay it, but it will eat everything on these. Get a winter rat, and park this one. Mine I had to drive just one winter here in NY and only sparingly, and now three years later I have an incredible amount of rust repair to get to. The only true prevention is abstinence.

 

[fitz]

Wheelspinner nailed it. A cheap beater is a great way to go.
If you have to drive the CUCV in the winter, spray the undercarige down with oil.

 

[alpine44]

Wheelspinner nailed it. A cheap beater is a great way to go.
If you have to drive the CUCV in the winter, spray the undercarriage down with oil.

THIS !! I am in (but leaving) the rust belt and there is no preventative that works against salt, especially on these older trucks that just have plain old good steel under them. You can delay it, but it will eat everything on these. Get a winter rat, and park this one. Mine I had to drive just one winter here in NY and only sparingly, and now three years later I have an incredible amount of rust repair to get to. The only true prevention is abstinence.

I hear you. However, I currently do not have the space for another vehicle. I am going to treat bare spots on the frame and underbody with a suitable epoxy primer and CARC (or substitute) as soon as I get the truck home. Before the snow falls, the entire underside and wheel wells will be sprayed with a wax/oil corrosion preventative. Fortunately, Montana is not one of the worst states as far as the amount of salt is concerned.