Noisy axles at LMTV

[engele]

Hi,

My lmtv makes some noise, i think the axles. Not under load or coasting.
i know the Steyr 12m18 is total Different, i had One and he had the same Noise.

the Truck is a 2003a1 with only 5.400miles.

maybe it makes sense to use a other oil in the axles.

Does anyone know this?

Alex

 

[NDT]

Oh yes. This problem is caused by using the incorrect shims in the wheel end spider gear setup. See this thread for links to the correct method to set up (youtube). The sound is caused by the outer bevel gear flopping around.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...LMTV-planetary-hub-setup&highlight=lmtv+axles

 

[tburk49760]

Is there no easier way to set these up?

 

[tennmogger]

What about running a heavier, more viscous, lube? Maybe NLGI 0 (zero) grease, aka John Deere corn head grease?

 

[dalej]

This brings up a question... Does the differential oil in the axles, lubricate those bearings and gears? or does one need to repack the wheel bearings? I really hope the heavy oil lubricates everything in the axles.

 

[tennmogger]

Hi Dale,

No doubt the reduction gears run in their own reservoirs. The front axle reductions are certainly separated from the diffs.

If you get to checking them, it takes a 5/16" Allen hex drive, and a good bit of torque to pop the plugs. There are magnets built into the plugs so you can check for magnetic wear products. Mine had a light covering of very fine black stuff and no chunks, and that's probably normal.

Bob

 

[dalej]

Do you check the hub oil level when the plugs are at either 9 or 3 o'clock?

 

[Overdrive]

Hi Dale,

No doubt the reduction gears run in their own reservoirs. The front axle reductions are certainly separated from the diffs.

If you get to checking them, it takes a 5/16" Allen hex drive, and a good bit of torque to pop the plugs. There are magnets built into the plugs so you can check for magnetic wear products. Mine had a light covering of very fine black stuff and no chunks, and that's probably normal.

Bob

Thank you for giving the required tool to check those front hubs. Putting that on the mandatory checkout list as I read the death of hubs thread where they were dry for a recovery.

 

[dalej]

If you have a 8 mm hex, it worked good for me. I was told to put the plugs at either 4 or 8 o'clock 12 being straight up.

 

[NDT]

On the rear axle, there is no seal of any type that prevents gear oil from the center differential from running down the axle tube and over filling the wheel hubs when the truck is on a side slope. And there is no troublesome outer axle seal (like on old gen deuces/5 tons) to keep the oil out of the wheel bearings. Bottom line, the bearings and wheel end spider gears are lubed by gear oil only. If you applied grease to the bearings, the grease would get washed out.

 

[Overdrive]

Quick verification question: Is it just the front hubs that have separate reservoirs and not the rear? Or are there hex/Allen drain/fill plugs on the rear as well?

 

[Suprman]

Each axle has a fill and drain plug on the chuck.

 

[dalej]

So what I'm reading is when the truck is in a level position, add differential gear oil to the back axle in the fill hole in the center of the axle. No need to check the two cap plugs. BUT on the front axle check the differential oil AND the end caps for the proper level of oil.

 

[Suprman]

I only checked the pumpkin fill on my front axle. I can ask an army mech about it though. Level ground take the fill plug out the fluid level should be around 1/2 inch below the plug hole.

 

[NDT]

So what I'm reading is when the truck is in a level position, add differential gear oil to the back axle in the fill hole in the center of the axle. No need to check the two cap plugs. BUT on the front axle check the differential oil AND the end caps for the proper level of oil.

No. You must check the wheel hub oil level front and rear. If someone had drained the hubs, they would not automatically get filled by the center differential oil.

 

[Overdrive]

Right, that was that big "my front hubs burned up" during a recovery thread everyone points to as a caution/danger. Didn't check the fluid in the front hubs and they had been drained so they quickly were eaten up and seized. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123148-LMTV-recovery-and-failure-home-now

So.... Rule is there are fill points on both front and rear axle hubs and those plugs are 8mm hex or 5/16" Allen hex. There was another thread that said a 3/8 drive could be used but that seems less likely with the updates on the hex info.

 

[10Lugger]

No. You must check the wheel hub oil level front and rear. If someone had drained the hubs, they would not automatically get filled by the center differential oil.

Correct! They are separate from each other with two different seals, oil and CTIS

 

[engele]

Hi guys,

can someone explain me again in which Position must the srew are to check the oil level?
i saw 3 o'clock and 4 o'clock.
and what Type of oil?
Best regards

 

[Lmtv772]

The TM said 4 o'clock while 12 would be the top. But you're really well off if you download them and scroll through a little bit. You can always find some interesting stuff.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

No. You must check the wheel hub oil level front and rear. If someone had drained the hubs, they would not automatically get filled by the center differential oil.

NDT...to recap please....4 o'clock, check each hub and fill correct..
and yes,diffs are seperate...so,that's a no brainier.
I Will liken it too a HMMWV, it has 4 geared hubs and 2 diffs...all need fuild.

Would it be recommended to go to 6'oclock and drain and refill at 4?