cucvrus
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Don't get excited. It is not the end. Which 2 are stuck?
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I put all the same in. A new 8 pack of 13Gs. The Wellmans were all 6a843g070.If all of the glow plugs were not type/brand matched that's probably what did the others in.
They all need to have the same electrical characteristics or the ones with the lowest resistance will burn the hottest. Do you know what model the Wellmans were?
Cylinders 6 & 7 (2nd and 3rd from front on passenger side) are the ones that came out. The rest are stuck. I just cant believe they swelled from so few times of use.Don't get excited. It is not the end. Which 2 are stuck?
What voltage did you see? And you tested the two glow plugs at 24v? The glow plugs run on 12v, not 24v. That is the reason for the resistor, to form a voltage divider network with the glow plugs to provide them with 12v.Well, I just tested every wire to the glow plugs and every one had the correct voltage. ... Tested the two with jumper cables on 24v and nothing on them two that came out...
Sorry - mention of the Wellmans made it sound like you had 6 AC13s that were stuck and burned, and two Wellmans that came out and worked...I put all the same in. A new 8 pack of 13Gs. The Wellmans were all 6a843g070.
I saw 24v at glow plugs. Yes, I tested at 24v, oops. No wonder it was instant. So is my controller bad?What voltage did you see? And you tested the two glow plugs at 24v? The glow plugs run on 12v, not 24v. That is the reason for the resistor, to form a voltage divider network with the glow plugs to provide them with 12v.
Sounds like my game planNo offense to anyone,but this is a good example of why I did the GP resistor bypass,manual GP switch and run the 60g plugs.On my first 1009 the resistor ate 8 new GPs in a week.Now I know my GPs are getting 12v.
If you individually touched 24V to the glow plugs they're probably dead. 12V only for these. 24V is roughly half consumed by the ballast resistor to provide 12V to the glow plugs - but this presumes that the glow plugs are doing half of the work. If not the voltage will creep up to battery voltage as each successive glow plug burns out faster and faster (cascade failure).I saw 24v at glow plugs. Yes, I tested at 24v, oops. No wonder it was instant. So is my controller bad?
Thank you Warthog. After thinking for quite a while on this, I think I will keep it stock and just use wellman 070s. Apparently the 24v I am seeing at the glow plugs is correct. However, shouldn't I have seen it drop to(ward) 12v? Also, the wait light is going off real quick now with the Delco 13s vs. the normal 8 second or so illumination I got of it with the wellmans. Is that most likely the card or the failed 13s? I found a thread with a link to the section of the tm for the controller testing and have downloaded it and if the rain permits it, I will do that later today. I will also test all of the wellman's I took out (as well as these delcos once I get them pryed out) to see if, or how many of them may be good. I don't plan on reusing them, but want to know this for further understanding of what or what didn't go wrong.A recap of how the stock system works. Simplified version (some steps left out, like starting the truck)
The stock glowplug in the CUCV are 12v versions.
1. 24v comes from the 24v buss bar to the large resistor pack and then to the GP relay
2. The GP controller card senses that the engine is cold and closes the ground circuit and allows the GP relay to energize
3. 24v now passes through the relay and goes to the individual plugs
4. With resistance of the large resistors and the individual plugs, the voltage drops to ~12v as the plugs heat up
5. As the plugs are heating up the controller card is reading the voltage and turning on and off the relay
6. After the engine starts the controller card will continue to cycle the plugs. This is the after glow.
Here is the issue. If the glow plugs are not with in spec it causes an imbalance in the system. Let's say that one plug fails. The resistance is now lower and allows a higher voltage to the other plugs. Since these plugs are really designed to operate at ~10v they are now seeing a higher voltage and are glowing hotter. Now second plug fails and the voltage goes higher. Then a third fails, a forth plug, etc, until finally the last plug sees the full 24v and dies in a painful death.
The speculation as to why GM choose this setup is to make the truck compatible with the other 24v trucks. It works great if everything is in good (not perfect) working order.
The HMMWVs run a true 24v GP system. They have treir own issues but burning up GPs is way down on the list.
There are members that have good luck with the stock system and those that have had issues and switch to the 12v setup and have good luck with that setup.
The only one that can make the decision on which way to proceed is yourself.
Well, after much reading and a good bit of frustration trying to get stuck glow plugs out, I have decided it's time to convert glow plugs to 12v and I ordered some Delco 60Gs. It sounds like they have the least chance of swelling and at 12v I think that should extend their life. Gonna hook up a push button switch for the blue wire and pull the controller card if it seems like the wait light isn't staying on like it should.Thank you Warthog. After thinking for quite a while on this, I think I will keep it stock and just use wellman 070s. Apparently the 24v I am seeing at the glow plugs is correct. However, shouldn't I have seen it drop to(ward) 12v? Also, the wait light is going off real quick now with the Delco 13s vs. the normal 8 second or so illumination I got of it with the wellmans. Is that most likely the card or the failed 13s? I found a thread with a link to the section of the tm for the controller testing and have downloaded it and if the rain permits it, I will do that later today. I will also test all of the wellman's I took out (as well as these delcos once I get them pryed out) to see if, or how many of them may be good. I don't plan on reusing them, but want to know this for further understanding of what or what didn't go wrong.
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