battery cable connections

[Joehop]

1

 

[loosescrews]

I'd check the frame ground first, then start shooting the wires with a test light and see where the power stops. TM-9-2320-365-10 section 3.2 starts the proper troubleshooting.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Is there not a relevent T.M. for you look at? or a trouble shooting guide? or wiring diagram? (as it) sounds like you have blown a link or fuse somewhere. Trouble is are those trucks not controlled by a (dreaded!) computer set up? or king size ecu?. Could be a problem that's been caused there. Huge oops maybe.
To help you...Thinking about it though..Which cable did you connect to which terminal FIRST?, And whch Cable flash Arced on which touched terminal.
The sequence describing this must include the JUMP cable conecting the two batteries. (As incorrect sequence gives 24 volts or 12volt grounding.)

 

[loosescrews]

TM_9-2320-365-20-1 should contain all advanced electrical troubleshooting in section 2-147.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Good info there. But still post ( ALL ) the sequence up to the "flash" ok.

 

[loosescrews]

Good info there. But still post ( ALL ) the sequence up to the "flash" ok.

Given that he will have multiple issues to diagnose, I figured he could find the most fitting problems to his specific issue, and decide what troubleshooting he is capable of. Give a man a fish, so on and so forth. Cheers if you would like to post the flash yourself instead. I do believe a man is capable to find the correct info once given a solid place to start.

 

[Joehop]

2

 

[loosescrews]

I wasnt able to see which cable arced, it happened too fast, I was afraid that something major might have been damaged when this happened. I will read through the tm's when I have a chance. thx

Take your time and be methodical, this kind of thing is nerve-racking for some. I have had my share of uh-ohs myself, its all part of the experience. Concentrate on the simple first, follow the tms as best you can, and ask questions. You'll have this hammered out in no time.

 

[sandcobra164]

On some of these trucks, there is something similar to a PCB for 5 tons. It's a simple solenoid and is normally the first to blow in the event that something arced. It's located at the rear of the battery box just outside under it's own cover. I've only had to replace one. When it goes, the truck won't even have power if you hook slave cables to it.

 

[Suprman]

I believe only a1 trucks have the batt solenoid. There is a battery connection diagram on the inside of the battery cover. Under the spare tire is a polarity protection device. 12 and 24 volt going into the cab have their own leads going to this. 24 volt also goes directly to the starter. It's a confusing setup if you haven't experienced it before. The diagram helps a lot.

 

[Joehop]

3

 

[Joehop]

4

 

[bikeman]

Joe, part of the issue with the FMTVs is there's a 12V out and a 24 V out...

Double check your relays and fuses under the Pass dashboard.

 

[Suprman]

If the box isnt allowing current flow then its probably bad. I think its basically 2 big diodes to prevent a reverse polarity connection. I dont see why you couldnt put heavy duty breakers in its place. Maybe 150 amp. I cant see how anything in the cab will draw anywheres close to that. The starter power cable is separate from the batteries directly to the starter.
Will

 

[Suprman]

I looked I have a good used one on a parts truck