Maintenance questions

[loosescrews]

I'm going to be doing a recovery of a 105a2 for another guy on here and in checking everything over carefully, I found a few deficiencies I am wanting to get your opinion on.

First, the glad hand gaskets that mate with the trailer on the truck side are aged and I am wanting to replace them. Are these industry standard or are they vehicle specific on the deuce? If vehicle specific, do you know a trusted supplier? Also, I would like to have a couple for the trailer side as well, and am wondering the same about them.

Second, I have two pinion seals on the intermediate axle that have a class one leak showing. I will be replacing them as time permits, but my question is about the gear oil. I found a supplier of gl-1 in the proper weight, described as "full mineral 90w SAE GL-1 Ford tractor hydraulic fluid". From my searches on here it appears to be acceptable, buy just wanting to confirm.

Finally, any tips about what to look for on the 105a2 would be helpful. I plan on checking the trailer wiring for bulbs and shorts, the airbrakes for leaks, the fluid in the master, the wheel bearings for play, the tires, you know the basics. I know about opening the drain on the trailer service side if the brakes get grabby or hot after a short distance, but any other hints would be awesome.

 

[MWMULES]

Glad hand gaskets, same every where, any truck stop.

 

[Recovry4x4]

GL-1 is what is specified, you will be fine. If the 105 is going to be empty, I wouldn't bother with opening the valves for brake service. If there are relay valve issues, you might have brake drag issues.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Fastenal also has glad hand seals...pretty cheap I recall.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You don't have to use GL-1 in the axles. Use any 80w90 in them that you want, just use the cheap stuff. Glad hand seals and ends are the same and available anywhere. I prefer to just get whole new ones, instead of the rubbers. They are cheap enough.

As far as the trailer goes, if it has both hub caps, just hook it up, check the lights, and take off. Do not open the air valves. With no load in the trailer, every time you hit the brakes, the trailer brakes lock up and you end up enveloped in tire smoke when you come to a stop. They don't stay locked up, they are just sensitive.

 

[loosescrews]

With no load in the trailer, every time you hit the brakes, the trailer brakes lock up and you end up enveloped in tire smoke when you come to a stop. They don't stay locked up, they are just sensitive.

Thanks, I got a chuckle thinking about that.

 

[Valence]

I would recommend towing it for a couple blocks and checking the trailer hub temperatures to make sure you don't have bearing issues. Then towing it for a mile and checking again. If you have a long way to go, check again after 5 miles. If they're still cool you're probably good.

When I bought my M105A2, I had trouble with the trailer plug staying in the truck's receptacle (old and dirty). It popped out just enough 1/2 way home such that I had no brake lights. (I was driving 2 miles, and had family in the chase truck that told me so).

I resolved the trailer plug issues by simply spraying silicon lubricant between the plug rubber shell and the metal housing, and spraying on the outside/inside lip of the truck trailer receptacle. The trailer plug now slides into the truck receptacle easily and I repeat that each year as I feel necessary.

 

[loosescrews]

The recovery went well today, and the trip to and back from FLW went great. A precursory inspections shown no problems and the trailer pulled ok. The 6 micron secondary and final filters I installed ended up working well. The truck ran flawless. Thanks guys!