5 ton 12v 5.9 repower?

[my76fj40]

Given that you have the space maybe a Manual tranny of your choice with an Atlas transfer case behind it to give you a multitude of gearing options. Might break the bank. There are a few underdrive units that may do the same thing too. May get the rpm's where you want. May come down to what you have easy (cheap) access to.

Lots of room between the frame rails.

 

[Jeepsinker]

The 8.3l is just a 5.9 on steroids. You can drop one of those in ( and probably get one for $1500) and you won't have to worry about a liner ever again. Plus, they share many parts with the 5.9. Easy to maintain and find parts for. And then you don't need to change the transmission out either.

 

[lindsey97]

The 8.3l is just a 5.9 on steroids. You can drop one of those in ( and probably get one for $1500) and you won't have to worry about a liner ever again. Plus, they share many parts with the 5.9. Easy to maintain and find parts for. And then you don't need to change the transmission out either.

If a NHC250 with bad liners is replaced with the 8.3l Cummins, Why would a person never have to worry about replacing liners again? Isn't the 8.3l wet sleeved also?

The reason I ask is that I am in the same situation as acme66, my last truck purchased made it most of the way home and then proceeded to fill the crankcase with coolant.

 

[Jeepsinker]

The 8.3l is a dry liner motor. Nothing there to get a hole in it and leak.

 

[Bandit02]

8.3's have wet liners.

The have one o-ring for sealing.

5.9/6.7's are parent bore designed. IIRC you can bore out 0.030" on the b models and run oversize pistons/rings if they get scored. I also believe you can run a dry liner as a final solution for a scored hole as well but I have never seen it done.

 

[WillWagner]

The 8.3l is a dry liner motor. Nothing there to get a hole in it and leak.

No, wet, mid stop, and the only thing in common with the B is the timing pin and the low pressure pump. 2 different animals.

 

[DEMON]

The 8.3L C Cummins is a wet sleeve.

 

[Bandit02]

Was a jake option ever made for the 8.3? The last one I did an in-frame on was the newer CR model (ISC) had an exhaust brake. That be a sweet addition to a 8.3 if you could run one.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

If a NHC250 with bad liners is replaced with the 8.3l Cummins, Why would a person never have to worry about replacing liners again? Isn't the 8.3l wet sleeved also?

The reason I ask is that I am in the same situation as acme66, my last truck purchased made it most of the way home and then proceeded to fill the crankcase with coolant.

As others have said the 8.3 is wet sleeved as well. However, from what I have seen on here it seems like the liner issue is more common with the 250's. Not sure why.

 

[WillWagner]

Mid stop liner v.s no stop on the 855. The C uses a mid stop liner, it is supported 1/2 way down the liner and is barrel shaped. The 855 is only supported at the counter bore, the top of the liner. There is something like 8 inches of no support. The receiver area is only a crevice seal and an o-ring, no suooprt, only liquid transfer protection. It worked well for a very long time. C liners are spun steel and 855 liners are lubrite coated cast iron. This is one of the reasons C liners don't show cavitation as bad as 855 liners. They still do, but nowhere near as bad.

And yes, a B can be sleeved. It isn't a dry liner, the cylinder is bored to the od of the sleeve, it is put into the block with a big hammer and a plate. It is then trimmed for height then bored to standard.

The C had it's fair share of issues early on, block cracking between liners, spinning mains, cams breaking. These happened in the pre 1991 engines.

A C can't have a "jake brake" It has slider tappits. The tappits tend to break with too much downward force, they are made of a cast iron alloy. New C series are roller follower engines and do have the ability to have a compression brake installed

 

[Jeepsinker]

Well thanks for all that. I was always told they were dry liner engines. Never had to open one up yet.

 

[98G]

Well thanks for all that. I was always told they were dry liner engines. Never had to open one up yet.

You had me in the garage last night examining my 8.3 liter blocks wondering what I was missing.

Lots of good info posted to this thread - at least 2 of us learned something new.

Thanks

 

[lindsey97]

Make that 3 of us. This is why I enjoy this forum so much, because of folks like Willwagner. Thank you for the knowledge.

So is it worth replacing a nhc250 that is overall in good shape but has bad liners with a used 8.3l? I think that liners, main/rod bearing set would be a quicker easier fix.

 

[Bandit02]

Lots of parts for the 250 around.

Such as from Interstate Mcbee or IPD Diesel for liners/rings/bearings/pistons/seals/gaskets and many reman parts. They are aftermarket but waaaaaaay better priced then from Cummins.

I got a entire in-frame kit for my Cat for $2500 vs from Cat which was outrageous.

 

[M543A2]

We rebuilt the engine for a Deere 4x4 tractor for a friend. They bought aftermarket parts for us to use, including a new cam and lifters. After a few days of use the nose broke off the cam. The whole cam was very brittle, poor material or heat treat. Working on major repair on engines in these tractors is no fun at all. Too many times I find that Deere does not think of the time and effort needed to make major repairs because of their designs, or that they do and want their dealers to make labor dollars. Never again for off-brand critical items like this!
Regards Martin

 

[WillWagner]

Cams and follower and rods...on the nhc...buy Cummins. You'll be fine with aftermarket cylinder kits, bearings and heads, as long as the aftermarket supplier is reputable, will be good.

 

[rangereter]

acme66, what is a "munched" liner? If you only have one hole that is damaged, you don't have to do an entire in-frame kit. The one nice thing about the old small cam 855 is there is not much to remove to fix one hole..."light weight" aluminum base pan, exhaust manifold without a turbo to handle/wrestle, few bolts on the "aluminum" intake manifold (easy), no engine brake on the top end, and one little cylinder head that one guy can remove without a crane. If needed, farm out the liner removal/install if not comfortable doing to a mobile tech. Couple of days for a novice and a couple of hundred bucks and back in service. Like I said, not sure what a "munched" liner is, but if it scored, dropped lower liner o-rings and dumped water into the base, or cavitated (pin holes in the liner and moving compression gasses and coolant back and forth). Regardless of failure, just make sure you pin down the "cause of failure" before buttoning up! I guess you will have to run the "time and money" math and go from there and good luck.
Regards, Bob

 

[Bandit02]

I agree. For the cost of things in the end doin one hole is way cheaper.

If your unsure pull the pan and look at the liners, you'll see which one(s) are damaged. Plus all that metal will need to be cleaned out. I would recommend checking the liner and see if it dropped before pulling it out once you get the head off, just need a dial indicator. Even getting the counterbore cut & shimmed is still cheaper then a repower.

 

[WillWagner]

I would recommend checking the liner and see if it dropped before pulling it out once you get the head off, just need a dial indicator. .

What??

 

[Bandit02]

huh?