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Thz71's M1008

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
No there's a wheel Horse D250 and John Deere 322 back there. I have ORD crossover steering to go on. I don't think I'm going to move the axle forward besides what the 52s already do, but I haven't completely decided yet. Yeah I plan to do springs and bushings yet this winter.
Excellent. Be aware if you ever decide to go with ORD high steer you might run into your tie rod hitting your pitman arm if you move your axle too far foward. I did crossover with high steer and hydraulic assist on a m1008 and used ORD'S "drop" arm. It hit the high steer tie rod. Ended up only moving the axle foward 1" and using ORD'S non-drop pitman.
 

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
Front driveshaft in, not sure I'm happy with it.
finished the body lift adjusted the shifter linkage put the lights back in. Burnt some of the new header paint off ( it shook the walls with no exhaust on it)
This is it beside a suburban with a 4" lift
grille is staying out for now because I'm putting lights and stuff back there.
measured for my new driveshaft
before and after

Got my driveshaft In

Exhaust bolted up to the new headers. They're alot different the exhaust works for now but it'll have to be redone.
Cut up a tahoe hitch for my front reciever mount.
 
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Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
Yep. Max is 1" foward from the stock location. If you want to move it further you would need to go with the rear tie rod. I've never done that and don't know how bad interference would be with the oil pan and crossmember
 

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
removed this for room
where it's going
on

Measuring for shocks
earning it's keep
led bar and pods mounted on the front. Cut up the stock turns to mount the pods. I'm going to do the turns different.
 
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llong66

New member
453
2
0
Location
kokomo, In
You said bye bye to your sway bar...is there a reason your not going with a disconnect? Does it have to do w the high steer? I have just started looking into lifting mine and am still uneducated about alot!
Thanks and good luck!
Greg
 

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
I know the question was for the op, but I figured I'd toss in my $.02.

I have ORD'S "quick disconnect" setup for my sway bar. It is a neat system if you want to retain a sway bar, but need to move your axle forward with different springs or zero rate blocks. If you want a disconnect for the trail it works but... It isn't quick disconnect, a better description would be beat it with a hammer disconnect. The setup is stout, and I trust it. Personally I retained my sway bar since I use my truck to go get firewood, and drive on river roads to get to the woods. If my pickup was strictly a wheeling rig I'd pitch the sway bar in the scrap heap. I don't know if a sway bar would get in the way with crossover, I still run a drag link since I have so little lift.

Update...
I asked my buddy who has a M1008 with about 5" of lift and crossover with high steer and hydraulic assist. His answer on a sway bar working was "No".
 
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evldoer

Member
141
1
16
Location
Leroy WI
I removed my sway bar when I put the lift on my truck and I don't notice it gone at all. You will be fine without it.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
699
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Mine seems to make a fairly noticeable difference when it's connected vs not connected while driving thru the mountains. I use the ORD kit and just keep it nice and greased up.
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
You said bye bye to your sway bar...is there a reason your not going with a disconnect? Does it have to do w the high steer? I have just started looking into lifting mine and am still uneducated about alot!
Thanks and good luck!
Greg
A stock sway bar with or without disconnects won't work with "crossover" steering.

BUT in MY opinion, if you run crossover steering you NEED a trackbar.
It tightens up the steering greatly.
 
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thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
The place called and the driveshaft is done so I'll pick that up Tuesday morning after work. Got my winch all wired and and ready to go. I decided to go with 30ft 2 ga. Welding cable leads with clamps at the end so I can use it on any of my trucks instead of having to hard wire each and every one. the cables the winch came with were too small for that length so I drilled out the housing and went with 2 ga. there also. Before on the left and after on the right
the quick connector
30 ft leads
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
For sure that's not pocket change, and it's not cheap:

- But that does look to be some pretty detailed machining there.

So it might be fair market cost, but I know what you mean, it always hurts to shell out three (or more figure) cash.
 
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