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Hubs driving me crazy

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
So I have replaced my hub seals multiple times now, and after about 1000-1500 miles I have gear oil on the inner wheel.

I started by replacing just the seals with no luck. Then I went all out and replaced bearings, races and seals. I have tried the procedure in the TM, rustystuds reccomendation of torquing the nut to 250-300ftlbs backing off 60* and tightening 30*. I have been putting gear oil safe sealant in the keyway and metal surfaces of the seals. I even tried re tightening the axle nut at about 500 miles. Still between 1000-1500 miles they start to leak again. Honestly it wouldnt bother me all that much at this point to keep topping off the axle, but it contaminates the brake pads which worries me.

Anyone in North Carolina have good luck with their seals that would be willing to mentor me?

I have no idea what it would involve,(did a quick search that didnt turn anything up) but axles off a 800 series truck is sounding really good right now.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
I've done this procedure quite a few times following the steps in the TM. Inner nut torqued to 50 foot pounds while Soldier B turns the drum. Back off a 1/2 turn, install retainer and tighten outer nut to 150 foot pounds. I use regular rtv gasket maker in the keyway as many others on here have. I build it up slightly before installing the nuts and retainer and I pack a little more in when finished. Where are you getting your seals? I've seen discussions on here in the past concerning a china made seal that many seem to feel was of inferior quality. I've only used NOS ones from vendors and have not had any repeats. I'm only speculating but I think you may be running the axle nuts too tight. It may seem counter-intuitive because tighter is better, right? Well, maybe not. Engineers with more intimate knowledge of the subject matter than myself came up with the procedure and it works. I'd side with following the procedure as outlined in the manual.
 

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
The seals I have been using came from Boyce. They werent in packaging so not sure if they were NOS or not. That is the procedure I was using until the last two. No change in the outcome though. Also I have checked the vents, they arent clogged the flapper isnt stuck
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
The seals I have been using came from Boyce. They werent in packaging so not sure if they were NOS or not. That is the procedure I was using until the last two. No change in the outcome though. Also I have checked the vents, they arent clogged the flapper isnt stuck
you are 100% sure these things are good? I thought mine were good (had cleaned them previously too). But one time I loosened one and heard a "pssst" sound. After that I took them all out and ran separate vent lines up to the firewall..... it solved my leaky hub problem and leaking transfer case problem.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
I looked on the Boyce website. I don't think those are the good ones. The outer perimeter with the dimples is what I'm looking at. The ones I used came in packaging with the NSN labels still on them. The outer part of the seal looks like they have little straight lines going from the inner to outer part of the rubber. I looked around and found a place that sell those. http://bandmmilitarysurplus.com/car...330007061238-pn-7061238-brand-new-p-1809.html I'm not endorsing the vendor in anyway as I've never purchased from them. Those just appear to be the seals that I've had good luck with. If you find them with another vendor that you'd prefer to purchase from, do so by all means. I do believe the good seals along with following the procedure in the TM will solve your problem.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Remove the vents. Make sure there is nothing blocking the casting in the hole then install a nipple and extend the hose up. Run this as a temp to positively rule out vents. I've found all kinds of issues related to these vents. I've owned a dozen or so deuces and at least 75% of my leaks were vent related.
 

M35A2-AZ

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,222
392
83
Location
Tonopah, AZ
you are 100% sure these things are good? I thought mine were good (had cleaned them previously too). But one time I loosened one and heard a "pssst" sound. After that I took them all out and ran separate vent lines up to the firewall..... it solved my leaky hub problem and leaking transfer case problem.
:ditto: I have ran vent lines up to the firewall on all my truck, Do not trust the little vents.
 

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
I will get some line and nipples and run my vents to rule that out. Each time I pulled the hubs apart I replaced the seals, I am now out of seals with leaking hubs so I will get some of the ones sandcobra mentioned. Hopefully that will help.
 

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
Haha yeah just getting a 5 ton would solve some problems. Down side is the cab on the M927 is a little over a foot too tall for my box to fit over it. Raising the box to clear would put me over legal height. I like the idea of the M934 but have t figured out a good layout in the back, Also to register as an RV I would have to have it inspected in Alaska according to the DMV. If I could find an XLWB 800 series truck in good shape i could direct swap the box and be good to go. But the registration problems still exist. Also comes down to the devil you know. I know the problems with this truck and I have a soft spot for broken things.
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
I also made vent lines for my axles, tranny and transfer case. I ran a plastic line along the frame and put T's in for the axles, etc. I ran the forward end up under the hood. I put a little filter on the end to keep dust and dirt out. It is a little work but solves a lot of potential issues.
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
... I know the problems with this truck and I have a soft spot for broken things. ...
Thinking back to your 'journey from Alaska', I have a feeling you formed a strong bond
with your MV after all the adversity you faced... and overcame! :wink:
 

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
Did you guys just use 3/8" vaccume line or something bigger?

azk9, yeah the two of us have been through quite a bit up to this point. Really I cant be too angry with him, as of yet evey major failure happened where I was safe and could get to parts and tools
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
I also made vent lines for my axles, tranny and transfer case. I ran a plastic line along the frame and put T's in for the axles, etc. I ran the forward end up under the hood. I put a little filter on the end to keep dust and dirt out. It is a little work but solves a lot of potential issues.
Might setting up lines like this help towards keeping water out (ex: while fording, etc.),
or is there some amount of 'back-pressure' required at the high end of the line?

Any chance that you have pics available? :wink:
 

TB58

Member
289
2
18
Location
Fayetteville, Nc
Thanks peashooter, that is a good looking set up. I will probably copy your set up. Did you get the manifold and airtool muffler at Napa or somewhere else?
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
Thanks peashooter, that is a good looking set up. I will probably copy your set up. Did you get the manifold and airtool muffler at Napa or somewhere else?
I got them off some old equipment at work we were scrapping. It can all be bought from McMaster.com but there are cheaper ways to do it also. Check eBay or somewhere for 1/4" push to connect manifold, or 1/4" tube manifold, or 1/4" instant fitting manifold.
 
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