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Converting my m1031 to a pickup and lifting it 6" to run HMMWV 24-bolt MT/R's

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I know that there are a few threads regarding lifting these vehicles. I plan to post a lot of before, during, and after build pics. My m1031 has just over 18,000 miles on it and the truck is in good shape. Getting rid of the utility body is kind of bittersweet for me. As cool as it would be to load the truck up with bug out gear, I just think the standard pickup will be more practical for me.

A couple pled of months ago, I secured a civy 8' bed from another SS member here in GA. This is a dual tank bed and should be perfect. I've managed to trade for a brand new set of Wrangler Military 37x12.50 MT/R's on new 24-bolt HMMWV wheels. In the interim, I am going to be using 3" spacers to address the backspace issues using the HMMWV wheels. I may later convert to DRW hubs up front if the spacers don't work like I want them to.

i am working with Chris Holick with Offroad Designs out in Colorado to put together the lift. My buddy owns Bulldawg Musclecars in Cartersville and his folks are helping me with the conversion.

Spacers are here, the suspension components are hopefully in route. Here is a list of what I ordered from ORD:

GM Dana 60 Front U-Bolt Kit
Greasable Heavy Duty Front Shackles
6" FR EZ ride 73-87 Springs / Special Bushings and Sleeves
Greasable Main Eye Kit for front eye of aftermarket front springs
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect System
4" 1-ton Shackle Flip Kit
2" Suspension Lift Block
3/4T (14B) upper ubolt plates for rear suspension
3/4 and 1 Ton (14B) Rear U-Bolts For Spring Lift With 3,4" Blocks
14" pair Bilstein F3 ORD SD Shock
14" pair Bilstein 5125 Shock
10mm GM Brakelines - through 6" lift
2" Drop Pitman Arm / 4wd Box
D60 ARP High Strength Studs (4) for Steering Block Applications
D60 Steering Block


Do you guys see anything that I need to add to the list? FYI- I have the utility body, PTO Generator, and air compressor for sale over in the classified section. I may be asking too much money for the stuff so I'm open to offers if anyone wants it.

plenty of pics to follow!
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
Sounds good.

I have an m1028 setup up similar on 37's

6in frt springs, greaseable everything
crossover steering (hydro assist not installed yet)

rear
4in shackle flip, 2 & 1/2in HD rear springs & a 1in zero rate
greaseable everything.


I think the rear of your truck will be slightly lower than the frt with the parts you have listed.
Also if your doing all this why not replace the frame bushing brackets & bushings ?
My truck was very low mileage & in great shape but the rubber bushings were severely dry rotted & crumbling.

Also before doing driveshaft work, I would convert the 205 to a "fixed" rear yoke.

Keep us updated with pics & progress.

P.s. I would love to have that m1031 box but distance & the fact I already have a few kills it for me.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
1) I would run a steering box brace. ORD makes a good one.
2) Buy the heavy duty rear shackles. With the stock rear setup the shackles are under tension, when you do a shackle flip they are under compression. I'd say it is a must if you plan on hauling firewood etc.
3) Go with crossover steering. It isn't a must, but you already are buying a pitman arm, riser, and studs. Why not spend a little more and get a crossover pitman and the rest of the goodies needed?
 
Last edited:

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
Sounds good.

I have an m1028 setup up similar on 37's

6in frt springs, greaseable everything
crossover steering (hydro assist not installed yet)

rear
4in shackle flip, 2 & 1/2in HD rear springs & a 1in zero rate
greaseable everything.


I think the rear of your truck will be slightly lower than the frt with the parts you have listed.
Also if your doing all this why not replace the frame bushing brackets & bushings ?
My truck was very low mileage & in great shape but the rubber bushings were severely dry rotted & crumbling.

Also before doing driveshaft work, I would convert the 205 to a "fixed" rear yoke.

Keep us updated with pics & progress.

P.s. I would love to have that m1031 box but distance & the fact I already have a few kills it for me.
I love Texas! If you are anywhere close to Abilene, I'd deliver it. I have a buddy out there and it'd be nice to link up with him.
 

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
1) I would run a steering box brace. ORD makes a good one.
2) Buy the heavy duty rear shackles. With the stock rear setup the shackles are under tension, when you do a shackle flip they are under compress compression. I'd say it is a must if you plan on hauling firewood etc.
3) Go with crossover steering. It isn't a must, but you already are buying a pitman arm, riser, and studs. Why not spend a little more and get a crossover pitman and the rest of the goodies needed?
I'll call Chris tomorrow and ask about crossover steering. Thanks!
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I have all of those parts from ord plus all the other ones they make on my 1009. they have good stuff. I installed the front upper shock mounts. I do not see these on your list. I ran the same shocks front and rear. maybe this is why you have different shocks front and rear. I also had weld on tabs to relocate the rear shocks. I do not see these on your list.
cross over is a must with hydro assist but I do not like my PSC steering box. way to sloppy. I sent the first one back it was worse. This one is still bad. I am going to try and rebuild myself soon and see if I can do better. At least it is already ported.
enjoy the build, it never ends.

Edit: I had four inch. you are doing six so maybe difference in shocks and mounts.
Rich
 
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Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
One more question. Why do you want to run 3" spacers? 2" spacers will work.

Crossover with hydraulic assist is fantastic. If you want to do it on the cheap it is not that difficult to take apart your steering gear to drill and tap it. I have done a couple, it really isn't that bad.
 

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
One more question. Why do you want to run 3" spacers? 2" spacers will work.

Crossover with hydraulic assist is fantastic. If you want to do it on the cheap it is not that difficult to take apart your steering gear to drill and tap it. I have done a couple, it really isn't that bad.
I could never get a definitive answer as to the thickness of spacer that I'd need for my truck. Most folks on other forums were saying between 2" and 3" so I just settled for the 3" ones. I really wish I would have started this thread prior to ordering any parts. The wealth of knowledge on SS just blows my mind. You guys are courteous and respectful and know your dang military vehicles!

THANKS!
 

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
This is going to turn into quite an adventure. I just found out today that a buddy of mine has a Cummins 6bt long block that he is willing to donate to the cause! Now the wheels really are turning... If I could adapt an Allison transmission to the NP205 I think I would have a beast... :D:D
 

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
OK guys, I ordered some more parts from ORD. Boxes are showing up everyday at the house and my wife is freaking out... (She's German :razz:) Have a look at this list now and tell me what I am missing. With the billet wheel spacers that are not listed, I have $2,366 in what I hope will be a high quality 6" lift to clear my 37" Military MT/R's. I will look into crossover steering after I do the 6bta swap. In the interim, I will go with what I have in the list for steering correction.

Once the budget recovers, I will try to begin the 6bta swap. I am guessing that it will be an additional $5k to make it happen. In truth, I may drive for a year with the 6.2 before I can afford to make the swap. In the meantime, I plan on twin sticking the NP205 and fabricating a mount for a Mile Marker hydraulic winch. This is going to be the truck I have wanted my entire life when it is finally finished. Lots of work ahead of me though. Maybe my son will enjoy it for years.

Here's what I have here or on the way here:

6" FR EZ ride 73-87 Springs / Special Bushings and Sleeves

Greasable Heavy Duty Front Shackles

GM Dana 60 Front U-Bolt Kit

Greasable Main Eye Kit for front eye of aftermarket front springs

Swaybar Correction/Disconnect System

Extended Front Shock Mounts (Pair)

Bilstein 5125 Shock - Front and Rear

10mm GM Brakelines - through 6" lift

2" Drop Pitman Arm / 4wd Box

D60 ARP High Strength Studs (4) for Steering Block Applications includes nuts & conical washers

D60 Steering Block

4.5" Rear Super Shackle with Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit: 1.5" and 1.75" Spring Eyes

2" Rear Suspension Lift Block

3/4T (14B) upper U-bolt plates for rear suspension

3/4 and 1 Ton (14B) Rear U-Bolts For Spring Lift With 3,4" Blocks / 14" Long

4" 1-ton Shackle Flip Kit, 73 & up Straight Axle GM




 
Last edited:

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
Now just budget for a high angle front drive shaft and you should be good to go.

Are you not going to run a steering box brace? Once the wife budget radar goes down you should buy or build one. Repairing a cracked frame later is no fun.

I have my front axle pushed forward an inch to give me more clearance between the cab side of the inner fender well and the tire. You might find you need to do it, you might not. I know with my rig it keeps the tires from hitting when I am turning with a front wheel stuffed up to the bumpstop. The zero rate blocks are an easy way to move your axle if you need to.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
don't go a year without steering box brace with that setup you will be doing frame repair. Bolt on one is good.

Have a plan for rear brake proportioning valve. some have trouble with getting it to adjust to the additional suspension travel.

Rich
 

Wargasm

New member
6
0
0
Location
Henniker, NH
Have done this exact change over the last 6 months or so. Started with a 1031, gave the box to a friend and replaced with a civilian long bed. We ran mostly ORD items such as the shackle flip, 2" Blocks, and up front went with a custom hanger and 4" front springs. We added the Sway bar disconnect and have the cross over steering system + steering box brace in a box waiting for nice weather to install. We are running the Hmmwv 37's and experienced some very minor rubbing under full lock on the passenger side. We have since added a 3" body lift and it absolutely clears. It is the fiances truck and she was resistant to any form on trimming. I utilized (2) 12" sections of perforated steel stock and cut, sandwiched, and bolted them to the old proportioner arm, the holes are spaced about 2" apart, you actually get a decent amount of adjustability with it as far as finding the sweet spot for that arm. All simple stuff.
 
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Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
Ok guys, I figured id post a few pictures... Box is off and my buddy and his guys are making progress! Here is where we are at now. Looking forward to the lift!

IMG_0089.jpgIMG_0088.JPGIMG_0090.jpgIMG_2844.jpg
 

Glockfan

Member
274
14
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
Alright, it's been awhile. ORD 6" lift installed, civvy 8' box is mounted in place of the tool body, tires are on it... Paint will be soon. I plan to be driving it in a month!

.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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