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MEP 803A is ALIVE!

Gunny65

Member
173
7
18
Location
Bonners Ferry, idaho
It took some time to get things going but I finally got the genset running. Not that it had any problems. I had problems getting the fuel/water filter off. What a tremendous pain in the butt. I don't think anything has ever got me so angry. I read on here the problems some of you have had getting that filter out. I figured this one would be easy since it was just rebuilt. Noooooooo, it wasn't. I tried the rubber filter wrench, the metal one, the screw driver through the body method, strap and screw driver together method and could not get it to budge. I finally took the side cover off and removed the whole unit, head and all. I had to put the head unit in a vice and used several other ways and nothing worked. Then I pulled out the 18" pipe wrench, put it on the rigid lip of the filter and it still took several slips and cuss words to get it to come off. Finally though, it came off and I threw the mangled filter out the door. Made me feel good. I am just glad nobody was around to see my tantrum.

Anyway, I finally got all the filters replaced (oil, fuel/water, air, and fuel filter). I also replaced the oil since it was still the breakin oil they used after the rebuild. There was a tag on the inside stating that the oil in the genset was the original breakin oil and needed replaced at 100 hours...there were 250 hours on the meter. The oil was quite black and the tag was still hung next to the oil fill hole so I figure it was still the breakin oil. Checked the radiator fluid and charged up the two Ultima redtop batteries that were in it. I was worried because there was also a condition code "H" tag on the outside of the generator. However, there was also a condition code "A" tag inside the documents box. So, anyway, I primed it, bled the air out of the secondary fuel bowl/filter (the two screws at the top of the bowl) and it started up on the third attempt. It didnt belch black smoke, just some initial white smoke and it ran very smoothly. I was soooooo happy after the fuel water filter fiasco. I ran it about 45 seconds, turned it off, checked the oil level and all was good. I then turned it back on, first try, and let it run for 50ish minutes watching the gauges throughout the process.

Everything went smooth, all gauges were where they should be. EXCEPT the amps gauge. It never moved at any point. It just sat in the red prior to starting, during starting and throughout the initial test run. I am assuming the gauge is bad? I will check it out at some point. I am not sure how to test it though. Suggestions on how to determine if it is bad or not?

I am very happy at this point. I now have a fully functional generator for my house. Now I just need to get the plugs and get everything connected. I am using the cable that came with the M934A2 I got this summer. It was still on the reel under the van. I think it is 50' of really heavy duty cable. I am not sure what the wire gauge is but it has to be in the 2 or 0 range. The cable is rated at 100amps, I think. Big enough to run the 50 amps I need into the house from the generator anyway. It is also VERY quiet. I am accustomed to wearing hearing protection around the generators we used while I was active. They were stupid loud. This thing you can talk normally right next to it. My chainsaw is much louder. Here are a few pics.

The fourth pic of the head unit shows rust. It is running fine but that worried me. You could not see that in the GL inspection pictures. It is doing its job though so I am assuming it is just surface/orifice rust.

The fifth picture is the unit sitting next to the generator on the trailer. It is for switching the load from the semi-permenant generator on the ground (just as an example) to the trailer mounted generator so maintenance could be performed on the ground generator and whatever the generator was providing power to could keep on doing whatever it was doing during the maintenance downtime. I think this is what it was used for anyway. It is definitely for switching loads from one genset to this one and back.

The last picture is of what I won on GL right before Christmas. My wife said I could bid on it for a Christmas present. It is the Eyecon 360 Light System for the MRAP vehicles. I am going to put it on my M934A2 (Sasquatch). I don't have a picture of it but she bought me a lighted toggle switch that has a pic of Sasquatch on it that lights up when powered. So Cool!. I love it. I won't be putting the kit on the truck until spring though. Sorry, this doesn't have anything to do with the generator but I had to share since it was in the same batch of pics I had loaded.

Okay, enough typing. This happy camper is going to sit, rest and relax.

IMG_20151208_090541655.jpgIMG_20151208_090549879.jpgIMG_20151208_090634055.jpgIMG_20151208_101810515.jpgIMG_20151208_102142853.jpgEyecon360.jpg
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,522
771
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Location
Va
Howdy,
Congratulations on getting it up and running.

Yes, that fuel/water filter seems to really be a bear to get off. I had the same thing happen to me. And there is a thread here with others which had the filter put on by King Kong too.
 

CT-Mike

New member
238
2
0
Location
CT
To test your charging system ammeter, go to Lowe's/Home Cheapo and get a $40 clamp on ammeter. Start the generator, clamp the ammeter around the positive cable from the battery, and see what your current is. Red on that ammeter means current coming out of the battery (draining), green is current into the battery (charging).

Congrats on getting running. I recommend that you pull a permit for the electrical install and do things right. Last thing you want is your homeowners insurance to deny a claim due to a faulty install.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
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Pepperell, Massachusetts
If the ammeter is hanging in the red it means the alternator is not putting out any current. (Battery is draining while the genset is running)
I'd suggest you first check Fuse #1 (FU1). It's the one for the alternator output.
My fuse #1 was bad the first time I brought my 802 back to life. Replaced the fuse and it's been good ever since.

If you decide to buy a clamp on ammeter be sure you get one that can measure DC current with the clamp. Most inexpensive ones can only measure AC current.

You can also check if it's charging by measuring the DC voltage across the shunt MT4 in the control box.
Connected a DC voltmeter where the two small wires are attached to MT4.
When priming (not running) you should see a small DC voltage in millivolts. It might read a negative or positive voltage. Doesn't really matter which polarity it's reading on the hand held meter.
- If after you start the generator the voltage on the hand held DC voltmeter does not change polarity (+ to - or - to +) it verifies that your not charging the battery while running.
- If it changes polarity then the alternator is charging the battery.

Instead of connecting your hand held DC voltmeter to MT4 you could have instead connected it to the two terminals on the back of the 803's ammeter for the test.
 
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Gunny65

Member
173
7
18
Location
Bonners Ferry, idaho
Yes, it is the DC amperage (battery charge) meter. It shows left side red then to the right it goes green. The needle is not pegged to the left side it sits just before the green area. The needle does not move from that spot when I start and run the generator. It does not move at all when running or not running or during starting. That is why I was thinking it may be bad. I would think it would move at least a little at some point but it just sits in that one spot.
 
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DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Efland, NC
If you find the alternator isn't making power don't replace it without doing some troubleshooting yourself. The alternators are a little expensive to buy but easy and cheap to repair.
 

ZackMan

Member
47
4
6
Location
Virginia
Gunny65,

Congratulations on getting your MEP-803a started and Happy New Year to you and everyone else on the forum. Technical Manual 9-6115-642-24 has the information you are seeking in regard to testing the battery charge ammeter. Access page 2-71, section 2-43 (Battery Charge Ammeter). It spells out the inspection, testing, removal and installation of the battery charge ammeter.

Best of luck!
 

Gunny65

Member
173
7
18
Location
Bonners Ferry, idaho
Thanks Zackman for the TM information.

Diesel, I will check the alt and see if it is the problem. I don't think it is but I am going to go through the TM inspection.

Thanks for the help. :)
 

Guyfang

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Korgoth1 is right. And most of the sets I worked on, rusted right there.

The meters are not renowned for accuracy. But the meter should move from left to right as the alternator starts charging. The set should read at the batterys, 26-27.6 volts when you first start it up. You can also measure this at the cannon plug next to the control panel. Pin d, (small d) and ground to give you the DC battery charging voltage coming from the alternator to the FU-1 fuse in the control panel.

The voltage should drop to 24 volts when the batteries are charged. And you can read the same at the meter. But from the way you describe it, the meter sounds bad.

Testing the BATTERY CHARGE AMMETER


Start and operate generator set at rated voltage and frequency.
Release control panel by turning two fasteners and lower control panel slowly.
Set multimeter for DC volts and connect across BATTERY CHARGE ammeter terminals. Connect positive lead
to positive terminal and negative lead to negative terminal if you observe or think battery is charging. Multimeter
should indicate up to 50 mv (for example, 25 mv is equal to a +10 amps reading on BATTERY CHARGE ammeter).
Reverse multimeter leads if you obsere or think battery is discharging. Multimeter should indicate up to 25
mv (for example, 25 mv is equal to a –10 amps reading on BATTERY CHARGE ammeter).
If multimeter indicated millivolt reading and BATTERY CHARGE ammeter is not within =10% of equivalent
ampere reading, or is not indicating, replace BATTERY CHARGE ammeter.
Raise and secure control panel.
 

Gunny65

Member
173
7
18
Location
Bonners Ferry, idaho
Thanks Guyfang. I did find out that the gauge itself it bad.

I also got my house wired with a standby plug outside and easily accessible. It is positioned so it is out of the weather but still outside. I used the manual main breaker switch lockout option. You know, shut main breaker off, slide metal block down and turn on the standby power. If the main breaker is on then you simply cannot turn the standby breaker on. Someday I will make it auto start but for now I will need to go out and start the generator, plug it into the house, switch breakers, then close the AC circuit on the genset. Yeah, it may be a pain but I cant afford the auto stuff right now. It is nice to have good backup power available. I also know that the power will never go off again now that I have it. :)

Thanks for all the help in getting this up and running. This forum is excellent. Now, back to working on the M934.
 

Chrispyny

Member
294
12
18
Location
NY
Thanks Guyfang. I did find out that the gauge itself it bad.

I also got my house wired with a standby plug outside and easily accessible. It is positioned so it is out of the weather but still outside. I used the manual main breaker switch lockout option. You know, shut main breaker off, slide metal block down and turn on the standby power. If the main breaker is on then you simply cannot turn the standby breaker on. Someday I will make it auto start but for now I will need to go out and start the generator, plug it into the house, switch breakers, then close the AC circuit on the genset. Yeah, it may be a pain but I cant afford the auto stuff right now. It is nice to have good backup power available. I also know that the power will never go off again now that I have it. :)

Thanks for all the help in getting this up and running. This forum is excellent. Now, back to working on the M934.
This is how i run my genset. With interlock kit. It's simple, bullet proof, and i don't mind walking outside to start the genset, hook up power, flip interlock, and power the house up. For those few here who have the skills and know how to install, and trouble shoot auto start kits, good for them. I envy them. Personally i think for ME, it's just another liability. Please do not look at your method as inferior. I don't. I like it just fine.
 

Guyfang

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The problem I see with interlock is its something else to go wrong. Lots of the pig farmers here in germany have the interlock system. Most of the time it works well. But not all the time, and the cost is not insubstantial. KISS. Keep it simple stupid. Its a good suggestion. On our HAWK site here in germany, we had the interlock type system, but found that it wasn't always up to snuff. After several instances of not properly functioning, we simply had a cable hard wired to a switchover box and it plugged into whatever generator we wanted to run at the time. Worked every time. We never had a problem switching over to TAC power again. Well that's a lie. One young man pulled a generator out of the generator shed without unhooking the cable. That was interesting.
 
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