212sparky
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Nope, time for some new copper or braided flex fuel lines.
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deuce steering box
- Thread starter frank8003
- Start date
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- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
steering box changeout and crushed fuel lines
We have to replace many fuel lies, rubber + copper.
Must disconnect + pull the fuel lines of the way to get the
steering box out and in.
Have to learn how to make flare fittings, (again) have to find where to get new rubber lines to the hydraulic head, have to do this and that.
Anyhow she runs just fine the way she is.
Must be about a hundred percent overbuilt.
I like her more every day.
...........and Anyhow what the heck is that filter like thingie in photos 0285, 0276, 0282, and 0284!? oops, You don't get the photo numbers..............
We have to replace many fuel lies, rubber + copper.
Must disconnect + pull the fuel lines of the way to get the
steering box out and in.
Have to learn how to make flare fittings, (again) have to find where to get new rubber lines to the hydraulic head, have to do this and that.
Anyhow she runs just fine the way she is.
Must be about a hundred percent overbuilt.
I like her more every day.
...........and Anyhow what the heck is that filter like thingie in photos 0285, 0276, 0282, and 0284!? oops, You don't get the photo numbers..............
phil2968
Active member
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- Lakeland, Florida
Flame heater filter.
Heath_h49008
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Beat me to it!
As for the fuel lines, I thought mine were bad... yours might run ok, but I feel for the stress that lift pump must be under trying to push through those restrictions.
When you fix those, you might notice a serious jump in power.
As for the fuel lines, I thought mine were bad... yours might run ok, but I feel for the stress that lift pump must be under trying to push through those restrictions.
When you fix those, you might notice a serious jump in power.
WRMorrison
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- Ramsey, IL
I know this is an old thread, but I have one little tidbit of information to add (since I just accomplished removing the box myself after struggling with it for forever...). I didn't have to mess with motor mounts and such, so this is what worked for me:
1. Remove the bolts on the steering column mounting bracket on the dash and unscrew the turn signal wiring (and remove the plug)
2. Remove the four bolts on the square flange that holds the steering column to the box
One of the bolts will likely be hard to remove. I just unscrewed it as far as I could and then cut the head off with a hacksaw blade, then removed the threaded stub from the box.
3. Remove the pitman arm from the output shaft (I used the pitman arm/ TRE puller from Harbor Freight, tool #1752; it worked like a charm):
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html
4. Remove any hoses that are in the way of the bolt heads. I don't know the name of it, but I had to disconnect one end of one of the lines.
5. Disconnect the hose connected the 45 degree brass fitting on the bottom of the (?) injection pump, and remove the fitting as well.
6. Remove all the bolts holding the cover on the box. **NOTE** This is what took me FOREVER. One of the bolts has a countersunk head and is removed with an allen wrench (can't remember the size) and may be hard to see. It's located directly behind the 45 degree fitting mentioned above, and if you're looking at the box from under the truck, it's in approximately the 10 o'clock position and looks like this:
7. Crack open the cover and drain the box.
8. After all the cover bolts are out, remove the cover.
9. Remove the sector shaft (I think that's what it's called, but don't hold me to it); this is what is keeping the steering column in the box. It helps to tap on the output shaft with a deadblow hammer during removal.
10 Remove the steering column from the box. I couldn't remove the column from the truck completely as the square flange on the column won't fit through the hole in the firewall. It probably comes off somehow, but I haven't figured it out yet.
11. Once the column is removed from the box, the bolts holding the box to the frame can be removed and the box can now be removed from the truck.
Anyway, hope it saves someone else from wasting unnecessary time in removing the steering box.
-WRM
1. Remove the bolts on the steering column mounting bracket on the dash and unscrew the turn signal wiring (and remove the plug)
2. Remove the four bolts on the square flange that holds the steering column to the box
One of the bolts will likely be hard to remove. I just unscrewed it as far as I could and then cut the head off with a hacksaw blade, then removed the threaded stub from the box.
3. Remove the pitman arm from the output shaft (I used the pitman arm/ TRE puller from Harbor Freight, tool #1752; it worked like a charm):
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html
4. Remove any hoses that are in the way of the bolt heads. I don't know the name of it, but I had to disconnect one end of one of the lines.
5. Disconnect the hose connected the 45 degree brass fitting on the bottom of the (?) injection pump, and remove the fitting as well.
6. Remove all the bolts holding the cover on the box. **NOTE** This is what took me FOREVER. One of the bolts has a countersunk head and is removed with an allen wrench (can't remember the size) and may be hard to see. It's located directly behind the 45 degree fitting mentioned above, and if you're looking at the box from under the truck, it's in approximately the 10 o'clock position and looks like this:
7. Crack open the cover and drain the box.
8. After all the cover bolts are out, remove the cover.
9. Remove the sector shaft (I think that's what it's called, but don't hold me to it); this is what is keeping the steering column in the box. It helps to tap on the output shaft with a deadblow hammer during removal.
10 Remove the steering column from the box. I couldn't remove the column from the truck completely as the square flange on the column won't fit through the hole in the firewall. It probably comes off somehow, but I haven't figured it out yet.
11. Once the column is removed from the box, the bolts holding the box to the frame can be removed and the box can now be removed from the truck.
Anyway, hope it saves someone else from wasting unnecessary time in removing the steering box.
-WRM
jake1086
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- williston ND
Alright, I'm stumped, been searching TM's and googling, how do I remove the steering wheel???? I got the rubber horn cover off, after that... I dont wanna break anything. heeelllllppp
- 3,021
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- eldersburg maryland
take the nut off, use puller. it is just a straight spline but is a tight fit and probably rusted.
jake1086
Member
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- williston ND
I have two pullers, and none of em are big enough ugh.
jake1086
Member
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- williston ND
Since I know you're all on the edge of your seats, I finally got it, had to build my own puller......... 3 times
but the third iteration worked great!yolner
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Post a picture of your creation. Always nice to see stuff people rig up.Since I know you're all on the edge of your seats, I finally got it, had to build my own puller......... 3 times
lisam35a 2 1967
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how do I put the asteering colume back in to the gear box help
lisam35a 2 1967
New member
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- paris tennessee
how do you put the steering column back in to the truck help
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OK I fixed it all. So 09172012 until 03192016.I know this is about the steering box...
...But am I the only one who noticed the crushed fuel lines?
Hey I am catching up.
All the lines were on there since built. I replaced it all, thanks
