Valence's 1960 Pioneer Tool Trailer

[Valence]

Here's some pictures of the "parts donor" trailer. It's more rusty than you'd think based on how GOOD much of the original paint is. It looks like a dinosaur chewed on parts of it.

Honestly, it's still restorable - but it's a question of how much time (and skill?) do you have or how much do you want to pay someone else?



Interesting, above the rear doors:
TRANS (OFF?)
TOOELE ARMY DEPOT
TOOELE UT 84074


And my desired rear-door latch and linkage parts (complete):


Junk tires and it looks like even one of the wheels' lock ring is rusted through and needs to be junked (possibly fixable with a talented welder??)

 

[rustystud]

Here's some pictures of the "parts donor" trailer. It's more rusty than you'd think based on how GOOD much of the original paint is. It looks like a dinosaur chewed on parts of it.

Honestly, it's still restorable - but it's a question of how much time (and skill?) do you have or how much do you want to pay someone else?

View attachment 613083 View attachment 613085 View attachment 613086 View attachment 613084 View attachment 613087 View attachment 613088 View attachment 613089 View attachment 613091 View attachment 613092 View attachment 613090 View attachment 613093 View attachment 613100

Interesting, above the rear doors:
TRANS (OFF?)
TOOELE ARMY DEPOT
TOOELE UT 84074
View attachment 613101

And my desired rear-door latch and linkage parts (complete):
View attachment 613102

Junk tires and it looks like even one of the wheels' lock ring is rusted through and needs to be junked (possibly fixable with a talented welder??)
View attachment 613094 View attachment 613095 View attachment 613097 View attachment 613096 View attachment 613098

Never try and weld a locking ring ! They are tempered and you would weaken the ring and cause a failure !

 

[Valence]

Never try and weld a locking ring ! They are tempered and you would weaken the ring and cause a failure !

Thanks rusty, I didn't know they were tempered.

 

[red]

Hey, you are quite useful. We'll have to keep you around.

Thanks Mr. red

No problem, I do what I can

 

[maddawg308]

I concur that the "donor" pioneer trailer is probably best used for that, and not to be restored by itself. I see too much already gone or rusted too badly to make it a resto candidate, but it will do great donating some much-needed parts to the good one you have.

Make sure whatever you don't need, and is too good to toss, gets a new home or purpose with one of the other board members.

Subscribed! I like the pioneer trailers, will be neat watching this get restored...

 

[Valence]

A couple weeks ago I very carefully removed the original tail lights from the donor trailer. Frankly, I was surprised at the condition of the plugs and original wire harness. The rear section of the rear wire harness (so far) appears 100% reusable and only 1 wire on the right taillight needs repair (it wore through on a bolt head). I don't think I'll be using the original wire harness because it is only 3 plugs on the left side, and 4 plugs on the right (my new, flat, LED tail lights require 4-plugs on both sides).



Also, the taillights were 100% functional!

Passenger Side (right) Taillight:


Driver's Side (left) Taillight:
(one bolt will need some careful removing, it was rusted in place and the head sheered off)



I like the looks of these original lights so much, I'm considering wiring them in parallel with the LED lights. They won't work when connected to my civilian pickup (12V), but that's what the LED taillights are for, but may look a little odd when connected to an MV since they'd be significantly dimmer than the LEDs. But I may still try it for kicks!

The biggest con is actually their location sticking out from the sides of the rear of the trailer. Easily in the way (ie: often hitting your leg on them) when accessing the the trailer contents via the gull-wing side doors. And with any trailer lighting that "hangs out there", are likely to be broken/damaged.

 

[Valence]

The donor trailer still had the blackout light too. It was located on the underneath of the frame on the right rear. Its mounting bracket has obviously been bent from an impact with the ground.



The light didn't work with initial tests and all the interior corrosion speaks as to why. I had to destroy the original bulb to remove it and clean up the receptacle with a wire brush and fine-grit sand paper.



Test Before cleaning:


Test After cleaning:


It works once-again! Though, I could only make out the faintest of light around the edges of the lens. I don't know if it's been painted over or what the intended use/brightness of the light is supposed to be.

 

[Valence]

Once restored, I still wanted the ~8" x ~8" delineator reflectors on the fenders, because most of the pioneer tool trailers that I've seen have had damage to the fenders. I can only surmise that it is a common issue on those parts of the body that "stick out there" so I want the fenders to be as visible as possible!.

I easily found the delineator reflectors from a seller on eBay, who was from Italy. Initially I didn't want to pay that much ($28 x 2 + $19 = $75) and ship over seas and risk damage in transit but the reflectors were surprisingly uncommon, so I took a chance.

They arrived this past week (isn't the modern age truly astounding?!) and I'm very pleased to report they are in good shape! There is only a little bit of curling on the edge but a small stack of books will easily straighten that out (they're adhesive backed and would probably have no problem adhering anyway).



Appears the seller shipped these in an original supply box.
Label reads:

3M
6060 Series
Military Vehicle
Delineator Sign Face
20 cm x 20 cm
10 Plates
Re-order Quantity - Box containing 50 Plates
Part No.: DR-9999-3270-7
----------
Re-order form:
3M U.S. Government Services Europe
and SHAPE/NATO Relations
Carl-Schurz-Strasse 1
D - 4040 Neuss 1, W.-Germany
Tel. (0 21 01) 14-0, Telex 8 517 511


I also scanned in the paper that came with it. One side is in English, the other German. Apologies, as about a 1/2" was cut off as the scanner I have access to is only so big.
Quick preview pictures:


PDF (3.45 MB):
View attachment 3M_Military_Vehicle_Delineators_Info_scan.pdf

 

[bikeman]

Looks like the seller figured out people weren't too happy with folded Delineators. Glad your shipment came through ok!

And I'm debating the same thing with my Pioneer fenders. I'm thinking I might put the delineators on magnet sheets and use those until I repair/derust/paint the fenders.

For S&G I sent 3M an email asking about them since you have the part number.

 

[Valence]

That's good thinking there Mr. bikeman! It'll be interesting to hear what 3M has to say if/when they reply.

I was also thinking of putting the reflectors on automotive magnetic sheets. Mostly so if one is damaged or wears out in the weather it can be replaced easier without trying to peel it off the fender and dealing with the adhesive or damaging the paint on the body. Another option is to stick it to a separate painted metal sheet and bolt the sheet on. Kind of like what this fellow did:

 

[juanprado]

The donor trailer still had the blackout light too. It was located on the underneath of the frame on the right rear. Its mounting bracket has obviously been bent from an impact with the ground.

View attachment 615552 View attachment 615551 View attachment 615557 View attachment 615550 View attachment 615556 View attachment 615553 View attachment 615554 View attachment 615555

The light didn't work with initial tests and all the interior corrosion speaks as to why. I had to destroy the original bulb to remove it and clean up the receptacle with a wire brush and fine-grit sand paper.
View attachment 615561 View attachment 615562


Test Before cleaning:
View attachment 615558

Test After cleaning:
View attachment 615559 View attachment 615560

It works once-again! Though, I could only make out the faintest of light around the edges of the lens. I don't know if it's been painted over or what the intended use/brightness of the light is supposed to be.

I took the black out lens and just left the clear to make it a license plate light. I then hung a universal plate holder under it. I Y off the taillight's running light.

 

[juanprado]

Looks like the seller figured out people weren't too happy with folded Delineators. Glad your shipment came through ok!

And I'm debating the same thing with my Pioneer fenders. I'm thinking I might put the delineators on magnet sheets and use those until I repair/derust/paint the fenders.

For S&G I sent 3M an email asking about them since you have the part number.

3m made a hard plastic sheet to mount the stickers to. Some of the ones I picked up from Scrap trucks had them. There is a Europe surplus website that had them in both sizes possibly Netherlands. I have the bookmark at home.

 

[Valence]

Jack's Tire & Oil in Logan, UT came through once again. I don't know how, but they managed to dismount the 3 good wheels between both trailers. I kind of wish I had been there to watch. Poor guys.

I blasted (steel shot media) the wheels. There definitely is some rust pitting, but the lock ring edge looks pretty good. I'll have to try and remember to get pictures specifically of the lock rings.



Ray, at the Powder Works in West Valley UT, told me that using the steel shot media was good for those wheels, Instead of removing layer by layer via typical sand blasters, the steel shot hammers the surface and has actually made it stronger. I'll take his word for it but it sounds good to me!

Reads:
BUDD
D-68


The lock ring reads:
GYR6516TS (symbol with a 'G') S


Wheel reads:
48750 (faint symbol) ORD7389625


Inside the wheel reads:
2-60
GY ??? U.S.A.
A.
B65 16 TS (or with no spaces: B6516TS)

 

[bikeman]

No Joy from 3M. They state they no longer make that product. I'll copy the email if I remember. I can't access it at work.

 

[Valence]

No Joy from 3M. They state they no longer make that product. I'll copy the email if I remember. I can't access it at work.

Well, not the news we wanted to hear, but your follow through is most certainly appreciated. Thanks for trying!

 

[juanprado]

try:
http://www.us-army-military-shop.de/Decal/Stencil/Decals/Delinator-Substrate-20-x-20-cm::1859.html

http://www.us-army-military-shop.de/Decal/Stencil/Decals/Delinatoren-Set-40cmx40cm::188.html

 

[Valence]

try:
http://www.us-army-military-shop.de/Decal/Stencil/Decals/Delinator-Substrate-20-x-20-cm::1859.html

http://www.us-army-military-shop.de/Decal/Stencil/Decals/Delinatoren-Set-40cmx40cm::188.html

Cool find! But I couldn't determine if they shipped to the USA or not. I e-mailed them on 4/08/2016 about it and received no response.

 

[Valence]

While I wait for the Powder Works in West Valley, UT to get done with my wheels, I decided I should start to look at tires so the trailer can get off blocks and be mobile again. The first trailer I bought had highway 7.50x16 tires (~31" tall tire). Very good tread condition but cracked sidewalls. The donor trailer had the original military NDT 9.00x16 (~34" tire), which are junk. For the size of the wheel well and fenders, I thought that the 9.00x16 looked the best.

As of right now, I think I'd like to go with 9.00x16 tires.

Tire Requirements:

1. Fit the stock wheels (16" diameter, 6.5" wide)
2. Be rated for at least 70 MPH (I intend to take the trailer on the highway, pulled by my civilian truck). I question if this is possible with a tubed tire, but I think it should be fine because the trailer, even fully loaded can't weigh more than ~3600lbs (highway) or ~2850 lbs (cross-country).
3. Be durable enough that I'm not slicing the sidewall or puncturing the tube on roads/trails that a (mostly) a stock 4x4 truck can run.
4. Still be towable by both my deuce and civilian truck

Pros of the 9.00x16 tire choice:

• Original size for the trailer
• It does give the trailer an additional ~1.5" of clearance
• Maybe more common in the "military" world?
• Would more closely match the tow height of the deuce (though I expect it'd probably still be slightly "nose up").

Cons:

• Cost (bigger tires likely cost more, but can vary greatly)
• Heavier (though, if I really wanted to save weight, I should not go with these split ring wheels and get a different axle with electric brakes... but I'm currently not doing so...)
• It does put the lip of the gull-wing side of the trailer ~1.5" higher, however I'm ~6 foot tall and can still comfortably reach the inside bottom of the trailer and just reach the upper edge of the inside wall.
• It will make the trailer sit slightly more "nose down" on my current civilian truck - unless I flip the trailer's lunette over - which would then need to be re-flipped to be towed by the deuce.

Interestingly enough, there is a home a few blocks from me that has this really neat looking 1954 Dodge Power Wagon, which uses the same wheels.


It is using Samson Traker tires, which kind of look like tractor tires. Frankly, besides the truck just being awesome looking, I'm digging the tire look but question their speed rating.
Samson Traker Plus M+S
OB105
Base Item Number: 85070-2
Tire Size: 9.00-16
P.R. 12
Type: TBLS (Tubeless)
Load Index: N/A
Speed Symbol: K (68 MPH)
Section Width: 10.1"
Overall Diameter: 35.6"
Inflation: 75 PSI
Max. Load: Single: 3840 lbs / Dual: 3380 lbs
Standard Rim: 6.50H
Tire Valve: TL
T.D. 32nds: 20.8


FYI, I had to look up the speed rating symbols:
http://www.tiresplus.com/shop-for-tires/tire-buying-guide/tire-speed-rating/

Attached here is the full "Samson Medium Radial & Bias Truck Tire Catalog" pdf (3.43 MB)
View attachment Samson_Medium_Radial_&_Bias_Truc_Tire_Catalog.pdf

 

[Valence]

A couple others I've pulled up through a quick search:

Coker 71025 Military NDT Bias Ply
https://www.cokertire.com/firestone-military-tires-ndt.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cok-71025/overview/

• SKU: 71025
• Tire Size: 9.00-16
• Wheel Diameter: 16"
• Rim Width: 5.00 - 6.50
• Tire Construction: Bias-ply
• Tire Diameter: 35.2"
• Section Width: 10.1"
• Tread Width: 7.9"
• Directional: No
• Asymmetrical Tread Pattern: No
• DOT-Approved: Yes
• Tube Required: Yes
• Max Load Single (lbs): 3,300 lbs @60PSI

(I doubt this one would have the necessary speed rating, though no information was specifically listed on the two websites above).




Coker 71014 STA Super Lug, Bias Ply
https://www.cokertire.com/sta-super-lug-8-ply-900-16.html
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cok-71014/overview/

• SKU: 71014
• Tire Size: 9.00-16
• Wheel Diameter: 16"
• Rim Width: 5.00 - 6.50
• Tire Construction: Bias-ply
• Tire Diameter: 36.3"
• Section Width: 10.4"
• Tread Width: 8.7"
• Directional: No
• Speed Rating: S (112 MPH)
• Load Index: 120
• Max Load Capacity: 3030 lbs @50PSI
• Asymmetrical Tread Pattern: No
• DOT-Approved: No
• Tube Required: No

 

[juanprado]

The super lug is what the military started using on replacements for the m101a1's. 2 different trailers I have picked up at ft. Polk had a super lug on one side and a ndt on the other side. I have them on mine and very nice tread, runs cool. I have run the trailer 70 with no issues. For these wheels, you do need a flap and bias tube with the super lug though they can be run tubeless on a tubeless wheel.. Gimpyrobb had tubes available. GoldnEagle has some nice super lugs available.