Perkman87
Member
- 65
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- 6
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale FL
It is really easy, just make sure you replace the coke thin tin bottoms for the rear seats, as it has a tendency to tear.
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Unless your seats are really wide, there should be a few inches available to move the seats closer to the vehicle's center so that your seatbacks will clear the reels.I actually just got some of the Smittybilt Standard Buckets delivered and I am in the process of trying to get them in.
The issue that came up is the angle of the seat back. The HMMWV high back seats are nearly vertical, while the Smittybilts have an angle of recline to them. So the back of my seat hits the seatbelt reel on the b pillar and I can't get the seat far enough back.
So my question to you guys who put aftermarket seats in, what did you do with your seatbelts in your set up, or did your seats work fine with the location of the reel.
I'm brainstorming on where to relocate my reel too, but I am open to other ideas as well.
Yes, fab up reinforcement or washers work.For aftermarket on the passenger front, do you guys just bolt them to the lid? Fab up reinforcement bracket/plate?
Was totally looking at mine the other day and notching a section like you did out. Then if necessary do a flat bar or something similar inside against the back lip.Although not nearly finished, here's what I've done to pick up a little extra leg room...
View attachment 625855
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Diggin' it...who makes them and maybe a possible source?View attachment 626381View attachment 626382View attachment 626383View attachment 626384View attachment 626385
This is what I put in this HMMWV.
Those look like global GSS seats, maybe "cobra" model. Probably GL as those seats have a hefty OE price and metal blast plate protection.Diggin' it...who makes them and maybe a possible source?
They are the seats out of a MRAP.Diggin' it...who makes them and maybe a possible source?
That's a neat idea ! I will see if something like this would work for me.Ok, finally got a few pics for the benefit of the brotherhood of vertically gifted. I'm 6'6" tall and the changes I made give me that "just right" amount of leg room.
While not really that much to look at, it's effective. I removed the original seat, leaving only the base level frame. Added steel angle iron around it so I could weld the slider (donor from a Jeep Cherokee) to it. A router with a carbide bit makes a nice clean cut in the aluminum cross bar. Because of the angle of the seat back, I did not have to cut into the bottom section of the crossbar. In a future project, I will be building a base level frame that is about 2" shorter. Current sitting height is a bit too high for me to see my side mirror clearly, and my eye level is almost even with the soft top. Slight discomfort that is overcome by the extra legroom.View attachment 663335View attachment 663336View attachment 663337View attachment 663338
I used a set of seats from a Razor UTV. Lightweight, side supports hold you in, and so much more comfortable than the OEM seats. Added a sliding rail from a donor Jeep seat for the driver, and cut the top section of the rail behind the driver seat. I'm 6'6" and needed that extra 2". Works great. The other seats are stationary. No complaints. Will get some pics up in a few days.
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