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Hub Removal/Replace

Lmtv772

Banned
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I agree with what has been said on this topic already (I don't think I would want to drive my LMTV much over 60mph), however I am curious as to how this Hub A, Hub B setup is accomplished as far as different hub ratios... Did the seller describe or explain how he accomplished this? I originally assumed, when you mentioned "eliminated" the reduction hubs that there was some sort of drive flange installed to lock the axle shafts directly to the hub itself (like on a jeep with no lockout hubs) but it sounds like from your quoted description of set A/Set B, that different reduction gears were used. Seems like if there were a way to change the gear reduction ratios you could dial small changes into the final drive for a LITTLE more top end power without sacrificing too much torque but I am thinking its not that simple. Not too mention as described in another hub thread the tolerances and setup for the hubs requires precise measuring equipment.

Just pondering....
OD
I myself thought that they have welded the planetary gears solid. But I don't know, if that would make sense or if it would even work
 

Overdrive

Active member
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Wentzville, Missouri
OK, I see now. Re-read the A/B posting so 1:1 modification. Oh CRAP! I sure hope it wasn't just welded reduction hub gears... that sounds scary dangerous.
 
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coachgeo

Well-known member
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He did explain it to me but that does not mean I totally understood having not looked at them. I believe he removed the planetary arrangement and welded Sun gear to hub. Guess that would make the Sun gear act like an external bearing support?? I'm sure there is way more to it. He did mention swapping hubs was easy though but part of me figured best to verify.... tis reason for this thread.

Information between us is slow. He works in various states in the country and is now dealing with an unexpected major family medical issue in OR. From get go before this situation occurred his reason for selling was cause he's moving across the country and simply needs to get rid of everything but his tools.
 

Overdrive

Active member
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Wentzville, Missouri
sounds like he setup a drive flange that can be unbolted and slid off the axle shaft (sun gear has splines to hold the axle shaft and welded to hub). wonder if he still filled the hubs with oil. Remember, the front hubs do not share oil with the front diff like in the rear.

Thanks for the update.
OD
 
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tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Greenback, TN
Hey George, you could still find another truck to buy :) NOT having to change out all four hubs and build a bed is worth a lot of $$$$, IMHO.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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Location
North of Cincy OH
Got a chance to talk to seller today. he's got 1200+ miles on the hub conversion. Most of that highway trip from GA to MO. It does drop into first gear when needed and it's not a sick snail on take off or hills. Say's it works thru all the gears just fine. Will obviously know more once I drive her. Honestly; I thought it would not have first gear available without being in one of the other modes, Apparently not the case.

I really don't plan to go much over 60 anyway. The old dieselized Unimog 404 once had was similar type driving. Like it, just looking for sitting in best spot can reach in engines power curve when in cruise mode yet still be able to offroad part of expeditions. Would be nice if that works with what I'm paying for upfront instead of having to buy 3rd members after the purchases. Icing on the cake; if they are switchable without major fuss. So far from what little overall we know and ya'lls thoughts here based on them/experience, that sounds doubtful.

Maybe I'll get lucky for once. Haha.... yeah right....... that's why like the fall back plan of having stock hubs to go back too.

I'll get a video of switch out from one hub to the other eventually if things seem to work though.
 
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Lmtv772

Banned
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Location
Florida
I am still not convinced, if the truck was so great and just the way he envisioned it, why is he selling?

on a different note. my truck is at 2400rpm when I drive 55mph. that is way past the sweet spot someone talked about. The fan clutch kicks on about every 5 mins. And fuel consumption goes up.
I found out the my truck likes driving at around 45mph best. That is at 2000 rpm. The temp stays around 200 and fan never locks. fuel consumption goes down a lot. I drove a 550 mile trip and my gas mileage came to 12mpg with a trailer in tow and going through rush hour. that is pretty neat.
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
if they are switchable without major fuss. So far from what little overall we know
What do you mean with 'little overall WE know'?

I for my part can tell you that switching the hubs is a major undertaking. the great have to be drained, it has to be as clean as possible, they have to be shimmed and installed in a correct fashion... yes there is a special tool involved. if you did it wrong you'll hear it when you drive, and soon after you;ll feel it.
And I know many others here have told you a similar thing, It just didn't arrive or didn't resonate. WE know a bunch more overall.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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North of Cincy OH
What do you mean with 'little overall WE know'?
Sorry for unintentionally misleading you in a totally wrong direction with that wording. I do try to write things in a manner where they can't be interpreted by another totally opposite of what I intended. Miserable fail on that last night. Let me re-write here.

So far from what little overall we know about how this conversion was done and based on yall's thoughts/experience that you've stated here; it sounds doubtful hubs can be swapped without major effort and time.


Here again is what he said to me about why he's selling .... he's moving across the country and thusly is selling mostly everything he owns.
 
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mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
Looked over the truck today. As suspected the lash would have to be set with each change. It has the stock NON MODIFIED on it now.
My recommendation would be to leave it that way if you buy the truck. If you want to modify something then do it yourself versus taking a chance that someone else did it right and didn't just screw it up.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,082
3,404
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
My recommendation would be to leave it that way if you buy the truck. If you want to modify something then do it yourself versus taking a chance that someone else did it right and didn't just screw it up.
Agree. One concentration though is the conversion did work. Ben (seller) said it cruised easy 65 and drove it for 1200 miles that way
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
50
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Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
I just drove a bone stock LMTV 3000 miles through 5 states with a M101 in the back plus an apartments worth of stuff while towing a Jeep JK. It was totally fine. I would throw my hazards on when I got under 45 pulling grades and I can count on one hand the number of times that was required. Your truck your time your money but personally I don't think any of this fiddling is required. It's a good truck as-is.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/albums/72157666596683451
 

Shark Bait

Active member
720
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Location
Charleston, West Virginia
I just drove a bone stock LMTV 3000 miles through 5 states with a M101 in the back plus an apartments worth of stuff while towing a Jeep JK. It was totally fine. I would throw my hazards on when I got under 45 pulling grades and I can count on one hand the number of times that was required. Your truck your time your money but personally I don't think any of this fiddling is required. It's a good truck as-is.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/albums/72157666596683451
Awesome pictures!
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
If my goal were to break driveline components, this is how I'd do it. You could exacerbate it further by turning up the motor and adding igger tires....
shhhhhh... get some pop corn instead
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
and let things marinade a little :)
 
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