Brake locking

[firefox]

This is for the M1008

Could someone pleas help me figure out what to
do or point me to the right part of the TM that deals with this.

I just lightly tap on the brakes and I end up burning
rubber. This is at very slow speeds. Less than 5 mph.
Once it is running for a while it clears up a little.

I figure it is just an adjustment of the brake shoes,
but I want to make sure before I really screw it up.
I am partially dissabled and this is my daily driver.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Chaski]

Which wheel?

 

[firefox]

Not sure yet, and it may be more than one. My guess is that it is the
rear wheels. I will have to do some more investigatin to determine
which ones. I am in the middle of other crisis so it is going to be difficult.
Please bear with me.

Thank you very much for your response.

 

[PJL]

Leaky brake cylinders will cause that too. Brake fluid on the shoes makes them real grabby. If you can take a peak at the inside of the wheel and see if there is any sort of fluid coming out of the drum. Also check your brake fluid reservoir. A loss of fluid could be catastrophic.

 

[porkysplace]

TM9-2320-289-20.pdf
TM9-2320-289-20 Unit maintenance manual for all variants CUCV.

Table 2-3 Mechanical Troubleshooting
page 2-35

 

[nyoffroad]

Leaky brake cylinders will cause that too. Brake fluid on the shoes makes them real grabby. If you can take a peak at the inside of the wheel and see if there is any sort of fluid coming out of the drum. Also check your brake fluid reservoir. A loss of fluid could be catastrophic.

A leaking axle seal will do the same thing, lot of people think oil on brake shoe will make em slip, WRONG! They'll lock up at the lightest touch of the pedal and then as the oil is burned off work normally (unless there really soaked)

 

[Jack Lope]

My truck was doing this on the rear tire. The problem turned out to be a leaky oil seal causing gear oil to splatter on the inside of the drum. It also would sometimes be stuck where that one wheel would drag or turn very slowly, feeling like the brakes were still pressed. I replaced the seal, cleaned up the drum and it's been good for over a year now. I'm no mechanic, but I made a video of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ22gKn5xXc

 

[rustystud]

My truck was doing this on the rear tire. The problem turned out to be a leaky oil seal causing gear oil to splatter on the inside of the drum. It also would sometimes be stuck where that one wheel would drag or turn very slowly, feeling like the brakes were still pressed. I replaced the seal, cleaned up the drum and it's been good for over a year now. I'm no mechanic, but I made a video of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ22gKn5xXc

Nice job ! Only one problem, those are oil bath bearings not greased bearings. It should hurt though as you didn't hand pack the bearings right ? Also make sure your oil level in the differential is correct since you lost some oil.

 

[Jack Lope]

Nice job ! Only one problem, those are oil bath bearings not greased bearings. It should hurt though as you didn't hand pack the bearings right ? Also make sure your oil level in the differential is correct since you lost some oil.

Yeah, after putting everything together, I filled the oil in the differential back up. It was a little low, but not too much since I had just changed that oil a couple months prior. I didn't know at the time that the oil is supposed to be there. I should add that as an annotation to the video. I might have added some grease to the bearings but whatever I did, it seems to still be ok after a year, and I drive the truck almost daily. I'll know next time. One thing about owning this truck, I've learned quite a bit.

 

[rustystud]

Yeah, after putting everything together, I filled the oil in the differential back up. It was a little low, but not too much since I had just changed that oil a couple months prior. I didn't know at the time that the oil is supposed to be there. I should add that as an annotation to the video. I might have added some grease to the bearings but whatever I did, it seems to still be ok after a year, and I drive the truck almost daily. I'll know next time. One thing about owning this truck, I've learned quite a bit.

These trucks are pretty tough. It takes a lot to break them. I would invest in a wheel nut socket for the front and rear wheel bearing nuts. You can take them apart without them but to properly seat the bearings you need the correct tools.

 

[reaper556]

These trucks are pretty tough. It takes a lot to break them. I would invest in a wheel nut socket for the front and rear wheel bearing nuts. You can take them apart without them but to properly seat the bearings you need the correct tools.

What size is it for the rear? Im fixing to tear my 1028 down front and rear. I found the lisle hub nut socket for the front but haven't seen one for the rear

 

[porkysplace]

What size is it for the rear? Im fixing to tear my 1028 down front and rear. I found the lisle hub nut socket for the front but haven't seen one for the rear

It should be listed in the special tools list in the parts TM.

 

[reaper556]

For anyone who has replaced your front rotors and rear drums did you replace the wheel studs when reattaching your hubs or is this overkill?

 

[Barrman]

Besides the possibility of gear oil or brake fluid. Just regular moisture in the air could cause low speed grabbing the first few times you hit the brakes. I have that in one of my trucks. No leaks. Just O'Reilly's house brand shoes.

New studs are are cheap and in theory should be better. However I have had some new studs break lately. Find NOS or make sure they are US made.

 

[rustystud]

For anyone who has replaced your front rotors and rear drums did you replace the wheel studs when reattaching your hubs or is this overkill?

Unless their damaged I would leave them alone. As far as getting the correct tool "porkysplace" is correct. Look in the parts TM .

 

[rustystud]

Besides the possibility of gear oil or brake fluid. Just regular moisture in the air could cause low speed grabbing the first few times you hit the brakes. I have that in one of my trucks. No leaks. Just O'Reilly's house brand shoes.

New studs are are cheap and in theory should be better. However I have had some new studs break lately. Find NOS or make sure they are US made.

A truer statement has never been said ! The new stuff lately like studs are more then likely made in some third world country out of who knows what kind of metal. At work our wrecker needed new studs on the front hub. We ended up replacing them over 4 times ! Just after using the truck for one week they would start breaking ! We finally called Meritor and told them to come down and fix this problem ! When you have over 1400 busses and all have Meritor axles they will come over to your place and try and fix the problem.