Just bought a M1009

[NVMessner]

So you don't have to go back with rope...I was having a little trouble tracking them down. That's good to hear if so. When I was under Judd cleaning up I noticed the oil pan had a lot of Orange RTV. Am I safe to assume it's been off before or was that standard?

 

[NovacaineFix]

Yeah, those neoprene seals only leak if you put one in backwards, lol.

 

[cucvrus]

Could be standard. But if it is sloppy and oozing I would say it has been off before. Just ask if you have any questions. I have changed many rear main seals and most times the transmission lines and the dip stick nut are my biggest problem. That and many are missing clamps and holders for the transmission lines and the battery cable. Good Luck. Ask anything. No dumb questions are never dumb. Only the unasked ones.

 

[cucvrus]

Yeah, those neoprene seals only leak if you put one in backwards, lol.

No they leak if you line up the seams /halves with the halves of the block and main bearing cap. That was my first and last time I made that mistake only once. the 2 seams can NOT line up on the engine block and the main bearing caps. That is a NO NO.

 

[usabamaman]

It was the oil filter...The rear main is leaking, but not that bad.

Check your oil filler cap. It must be air tight. It works in conjunction with the CDR valve to keep a small amount of back pressure on the seals to keep them from leaking. There is a metal flange and rubber gasket beneath it. I took the handle part of a plastic grocery bag and wrapped it around the cap filling in the gap between the gasket and flange. I used a rubber band to hold it in place. This tightened up the gasket and stopped the rear main and front seal from leaking. I am going to order a new cap soon.

 

[cucvrus]

You need a breather cap on a CUCV. A HMMWV has a tight fitting cap. The CUCV has the tall breather cap. NOT air tight. Far from air tight.Note the breather type cap. I showed it twice so I was sure you will see it is a breather type cap.

 

[usabamaman]

I think by the rattle that there is a pressure type valve in it. That would also explain the huge height of the thing- space for the valve. In any event my oil leaks stopped suddenly and completely when I got a tight seal on it.

 

[NovacaineFix]

No they leak if you line up the seams /halves with the halves of the block and main bearing cap. That was my first and last time I made that mistake only once. the 2 seams can NOT line up on the engine block and the main bearing caps. That is a NO NO.

I agree with you 100%, not arguing, probably should have worded it better on my part. What I meant for the others, just in case anyone didn't get it, there is a wiper edge on the seal
, if they're not aligned the same way then it will create a big leak. The seal will fit in either way, you just gotta remember not to flip it around the wrong way. It's easy to do if your rushing around and especially if you are working under the truck and trying to get ot done quick. Take your time and make sure the wiper edges are aligned or you're gonna be doing it again.

What CUCVRUS is saying is true. When I 1st started wrenching, I would place the seal flush with the main cap and dab a little RTV on each end, it helps, but still has the potential to leak, so you rotate the seal about 1/4 way into the cap so the ends are not flush with the cap ends like so...

I grabbed this online, didn;t have a main seal and cap just laying around.

 

[cucvrus]

NovacaineFix I did see they are marked outside. But all and all it is a fairly simple job. If you are a ground layer like me. be prepared to get dirty. I have work uniforms that are laundered by Cinta's and I don't worry about getting clothes dirty. They always come back clean and on new hangers. The stream out back is the shower and always has clean clear running water. What ever it takes. Winter time the work coats take a beating.

 

[NVMessner]

I know that the seal on my filler is shot. I can try Jimmy rich in somethin in there to tighten things up.