If she leaked out all the hydro fluid I am sure it made you sad by taking your wallet away from you.Found out that a blowing a hydro hose will shoot way farther on a m816 than on a backhoe.However after fixing all the air leaks, it was the first time I got to see the crane move!
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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
big block 88
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This system can run up to 4 cameras at once through different screen layouts. I will be mounting a front facing camera with in the next couple weekends. May mount one on each mirror or front fender looking down the truck to the rear for blind spots.
I have thought about doing a discreet forward facing camera and maybe a rear one. I do drive mine a lot here in the city and people in Memphis can't drive, love to cut you off and turn right from the far left lane across all traffic. People tend to want to sneak in on places and try to get you to rear end them. I have my rear facing backup LED's for those bumper riders but just for insurance purposes the cameras can help you in case something was to ever happen in which some little car thinks he owns the road.
Another Ahab
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big block 88
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You will need to hook up a dvr system to record what the cameras are seeing if you want to use it in court. That said it wouldnt be hard to do either
TCD
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I changed the engine oil and filter and converted the transmission from 15w40 to DexIII. Old engine filter was Fram CH211A new is Napa 1954. Old trans filter was Fram PH3519A new is Napa 1268. I reused the gasket on the engine since Napa was going to have a long wait on it. I did not change the internal trans filter and the oil isn't perfectly red after driving it about 50 miles but it's still pretty clean. Also put some garage door lube on the ends of my shift cable. On my test drive it feels much better than it did before on shifts. Rather than downshifts feeling like launching a car sized anchor now it only feels like a refrigerator size anchor. I noticed my new horn button isn't working so I'll be taking that apart in the next few days. The wire in the column probably just came loose. Next up will probably be doing my floor mat and new insulation on the hardtop, then troop seat boards. One step at a time this truck is slowly becoming new again.
Howdy,
Which fluid did you use for your transmission (specifics please)?
Thanks!
Happy Tails,
tom n tyler
gottaluvit
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I used NAPA (Valvoline) dexron III. Here she is on her first test run last year.
https://youtu.be/JU5zSfJ_U94
TCD
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Howdy,
Thanks for the info!
Is this the product?
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCA75203/NCA75203
Happy Tails,
tom n tyler
Thanks for the info!
Is this the product?
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCA75203/NCA75203
Happy Tails,
tom n tyler
big block 88
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well I'll be ****ed. You are correct sir thats cool. I may look into that also.
I just run the wires nice and neat under the dash and grab the blower power switch for the monitor and straight to the batteries for the cameras into a hi amp rated toggle switch. The system i am running in our 925 is a 12/24 system i am running off 24volts right now and it has held up
gottaluvit
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Yes, that is what I used. Completely got rid of that rude downshift. I am about due to change it out again which should eliminate all of the remaining motor oil (or darn close to it). I changed both filters and will do so again this time as well.
Anyone ever thought of going to their local quick lube place and seeing if they will flush the whole system for ya at one time and just let the front pump do the work getting all the oil out? They may have to drain and refill their machine a few times but still. Just have to buy the quick connect fittings to go onto the lines at the cooler to go into their fittings. but I don't see why it wouldn't work if its circulating the system. Just bring your own fluid. Then once you see just pure red in their machine sight glass have em stop. Go home change your pan filter so that all the flushed crap is caught in it and then swap that filter and refill with DEX III.
I know my local cummins dealer has a big one for servicing automatics on semi trucks. I think they charge $200 for a flush or something like that up to 15 gallons.
I know my local cummins dealer has a big one for servicing automatics on semi trucks. I think they charge $200 for a flush or something like that up to 15 gallons.
Piper Cub
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I used 18qts of this: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCA75200/NCA75200 . 1 quart to flush, 1/2 quart for the filter, 16 1/2 quarts for the transmission. Probably would have been cheaper to get the 5 gallon but I wanted to be able to easily maneuver the container in the cab without risk of dumping it.
srodocker
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Anymore info on your 12/24 system?
BenRoberts
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installed an mrap air dryer
gottaluvit
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Great upgrade!
DinoShepherd
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Great idea. Really...
My only experience even close was asking my local tire dealer chain, les schwab, to swap an o.ring in my wheels. This place does Class 8, but they didn't even want to look at SuperGreen. Really couldn't get me out of there fast enough...
Replaced all my belts since I slung a water pump belt last Friday night. I did a video of all the belts that is on my youtube page.
I did not replace the alternator belts. Did that awhile back. I did pull the fan assembly all the way off to give me more room. All the belts with my 20% off coupon were $85 or so after tax.
I replaced all the U joints on the truck and the front center shaft bearing. I did not replace the jackshaft joints. They weren't bad and the replacements are just way to pricey. $275 ea from Meritor. About $200 each from Oshkosh. So I just made sure they were well filled with grease. Other ones I had to burn out all the front shaft ones and the rear rear shaft. Both of those shafts take the 5-279X spicer or Precision 333 U joint so 5 total. The Transfer case to rear axle takes the spicer 5-280X or Precision 334 u joint. I used a 210084-2x center shaft bearing. There are 3 variants that will work. Someone else had used the 212134-1x and when I got it on and either way it was just way too tight for my liking so I used the other type. I did install new bolts for the center shaft bearing mounting. 3/8 x 24 bolts that are 1" long. Getting the jackshaft back in was interested. I found it easier to pull the caps on one side off and get the transmission side bolted up and tightened down then put the transfer case side in. and slip them into the tabs. Of course we know all the driveshafts suck at being heavy. I had a vibration at slight throttle and Didn't know where it was. The center bearing did have some tears and looseness but it wasn't under power during normal driving to cause the vibration. I did loosen all the bolts to the transfer case from the mounts and retighten them as well. Now no vibration. Kept an extra U joint for emergency purposes. Dunno why they all couldn't be the same though. I don't think we have many issues with these joints but atleast I know all mine are new with all the driving I do. I don't know about anyone else but the jackshaft joints are hard as heck to get a grease gun on.
Put a new flap seal on the shifter release valve on the transfer case. They are about $9 from Memphis Equipment. I have a source checking on getting them for me for about $1 or so each. I also pulled all the lines off and hooked em all back up correctly. It still hasn't puked any oil out of the switch, but who knows. It is so random on when it does it.
I am going to change my transmission over to Dex III tomorrow. I bought some fittings to hook into the cooler lines for the transmission. I am going to see if using those lines and letting it suck from the DEX III bucket and dump into a empty 5 gal bucket if it circulates well enough to flush it all out. I know the front pump can move some fluid in a hurry so itll be a trial and error. $60 for the bucket of DEX III from Napa.
I plan on working on my second air tube for my cold air intake tomorrow as well. Got the plasma ready to cut.
I may start on my oil cooler install as well. It is 8.75" wide 7.5" tall and 2" wide 25row cooler with 1" hose inlet/outlets
I did not replace the alternator belts. Did that awhile back. I did pull the fan assembly all the way off to give me more room. All the belts with my 20% off coupon were $85 or so after tax.
I replaced all the U joints on the truck and the front center shaft bearing. I did not replace the jackshaft joints. They weren't bad and the replacements are just way to pricey. $275 ea from Meritor. About $200 each from Oshkosh. So I just made sure they were well filled with grease. Other ones I had to burn out all the front shaft ones and the rear rear shaft. Both of those shafts take the 5-279X spicer or Precision 333 U joint so 5 total. The Transfer case to rear axle takes the spicer 5-280X or Precision 334 u joint. I used a 210084-2x center shaft bearing. There are 3 variants that will work. Someone else had used the 212134-1x and when I got it on and either way it was just way too tight for my liking so I used the other type. I did install new bolts for the center shaft bearing mounting. 3/8 x 24 bolts that are 1" long. Getting the jackshaft back in was interested. I found it easier to pull the caps on one side off and get the transmission side bolted up and tightened down then put the transfer case side in. and slip them into the tabs. Of course we know all the driveshafts suck at being heavy. I had a vibration at slight throttle and Didn't know where it was. The center bearing did have some tears and looseness but it wasn't under power during normal driving to cause the vibration. I did loosen all the bolts to the transfer case from the mounts and retighten them as well. Now no vibration. Kept an extra U joint for emergency purposes. Dunno why they all couldn't be the same though. I don't think we have many issues with these joints but atleast I know all mine are new with all the driving I do. I don't know about anyone else but the jackshaft joints are hard as heck to get a grease gun on.
Put a new flap seal on the shifter release valve on the transfer case. They are about $9 from Memphis Equipment. I have a source checking on getting them for me for about $1 or so each. I also pulled all the lines off and hooked em all back up correctly. It still hasn't puked any oil out of the switch, but who knows. It is so random on when it does it.
I am going to change my transmission over to Dex III tomorrow. I bought some fittings to hook into the cooler lines for the transmission. I am going to see if using those lines and letting it suck from the DEX III bucket and dump into a empty 5 gal bucket if it circulates well enough to flush it all out. I know the front pump can move some fluid in a hurry so itll be a trial and error. $60 for the bucket of DEX III from Napa.
I plan on working on my second air tube for my cold air intake tomorrow as well. Got the plasma ready to cut.
I may start on my oil cooler install as well. It is 8.75" wide 7.5" tall and 2" wide 25row cooler with 1" hose inlet/outlets
Attachments
Takes me longer to get the air out of the tire and to air it back up than to do the O rings or even a tire swap really. I did 10 O rings and 16 tire dismounts and mounts last week in the same day all 14.00s. I was so tired of hearing the air gun go off.
DinoShepherd
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Well, I am in the process of replacing all my torque arms. One by one. Got one more under today. Few more to go. My times are getting better. Still trying to figure out how to do the uppers.
Pulled the little lever off the air valve that automatically kicks the front axle in when low range is engaged. Now have full cmanual control over front axle. Great little easy mod BTW. 2 minutes, including finding the proper sized SAE Allen wrench.
I am am also accumulating a pile of parts in an attempt to make the truck as bomber (reliable) as possible. Mostly concerned that I have a solid air system. Here is what I have thus far. Any other suggestions for high wear items welcome.
. MRAP Dryer
. New PPV
. New air regulator
. Rebuilding air pump
. TMG air filter
. 3k Spring set, and tune pump
. New filters and fluids
. A2 belt tensioner is new
. CTIS works.... So far
As I tell everyone who asks about the truck. Cheap to buy, expensive to keep.
Doing a local cars and coffee this weekend. Should be fun. Will ll keep you all posted.
Pulled the little lever off the air valve that automatically kicks the front axle in when low range is engaged. Now have full cmanual control over front axle. Great little easy mod BTW. 2 minutes, including finding the proper sized SAE Allen wrench.
I am am also accumulating a pile of parts in an attempt to make the truck as bomber (reliable) as possible. Mostly concerned that I have a solid air system. Here is what I have thus far. Any other suggestions for high wear items welcome.
. MRAP Dryer
. New PPV
. New air regulator
. Rebuilding air pump
. TMG air filter
. 3k Spring set, and tune pump
. New filters and fluids
. A2 belt tensioner is new
. CTIS works.... So far
As I tell everyone who asks about the truck. Cheap to buy, expensive to keep.
Doing a local cars and coffee this weekend. Should be fun. Will ll keep you all posted.