• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

D

DinoShepherd

New member
43
0
0
Location
Sisters/OR
simp5782 said:
Takes me longer to get the air out of the tire and to air it back up than to do the O rings or even a tire swap really. I did 10 O rings and 16 tire dismounts and mounts last week in the same day all 14.00s. I was so tired of hearing the air gun go off.
Click to expand...
After watching it done the first time, I can definitely believe that. No magic to it at all really. The scale of everything is just a bit much for me as I am not a big strapping dude. But if I ever find myself in TN, I will look you up for tire help.

:)
 
gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
28
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
DinoShepherd said:
Well, I am in the process of replacing all my torque arms. One by one. Got one more under today. Few more to go. My times are getting better. Still trying to figure out how to do the uppers.

Pulled the little lever off the air valve that automatically kicks the front axle in when low range is engaged. Now have full cmanual control over front axle. Great little easy mod BTW. 2 minutes, including finding the proper sized SAE Allen wrench.

I am am also accumulating a pile of parts in an attempt to make the truck as bomber (reliable) as possible. Mostly concerned that I have a solid air system. Here is what I have thus far. Any other suggestions for high wear items welcome.

. MRAP Dryer
. New PPV
. New air regulator
. Rebuilding air pump
. TMG air filter
. 3k Spring set, and tune pump
. New filters and fluids

. A2 belt tensioner is new
. CTIS works.... So far

As I tell everyone who asks about the truck. Cheap to buy, expensive to keep.

Doing a local cars and coffee this weekend. Should be fun. Will ll keep you all posted.
Click to expand...
The expense to keep, at least has small payments and you can make them when you want as long as it isn't your daily driver.
 
simp5782

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,122
9,366
113
Location
Mason, TN
Most shops don't do them or are unfamiliar with them. Last thing they want is the lawsuit and the liability of a worker who didn't know what he was doing getting hurt. i.e. taking the beadlock nuts off without deflating the tire. You can't fix stupid and he is everywhere. Stupid celebrates Christmas, he has a birthday, and you will meet him all the time.
 
simp5782

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,122
9,366
113
Location
Mason, TN
Flushed the transmission today. The front pump is not fast enough to suck from the bucket. It does get emptied very fast. I did 2 videos of how I did it. It is a standard JIC Fitting on the filter/cooler unit. I used 3/4" hose. The flow comes out of the front of the transmission cooler back thru the filter then to the transmission I then put the bucket in the cab and just used the hand pump and filled it while it pushed it out. I did end up crimping the hose off to slow it down. I ended up using about 9 gallons to make sure it was fully flushed and after I re drained the pan and put a new filter in and pan gasket. When I had it running it slowly turned red then it was just all at once. I then drove it for a bit and then drained and dropped the pan to replace all that. It did shift a little bit better.

If someone had one of those cheap 250gph fuel transfer pumps from harbor freight using it to push the fluid back into the system would work great. so it has a total circulation.
 
Last edited:
simp5782

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,122
9,366
113
Location
Mason, TN
Pan pictures. Date on the pan was june of 2008. I replaced the filter. The new kit does come with a new tube and O ring so make sure you do get the old one out of there. 1/2" bolt in the middle of the filter as well. Don't lose the washer. As always the passengers rear side of the pan even when putting it back on is going to drown you with fluid so stay out of its way. I think it was a total of almost 9 gallons for me once I drained the pan to do this after the flush. Some metal. not much. The rubber gasket sucked though after being wrapped up in plastic forever.

The tube does have to be in a certain spot for the bolt hole to line up with the filter. The center flat piece on the rear of the filter will line up center with the bolt in the picture

Also had some blue stuff in the filter dunno what it is from. maybe the original rtv used for the cork gasket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az3c0VfJWck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=md-2MMK-szI
 

Attachments

Ford Mechanic

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
simp5782 said:
Flushed the transmission today. The front pump is not fast enough to suck from the bucket. It does get emptied very fast. I did 2 videos of how I did it. It is a standard JIC Fitting on the filter/cooler unit. I used 3/4" hose. The flow comes out of the front of the transmission cooler back thru the filter then to the transmission I then put the bucket in the cab and just used the hand pump and filled it while it pushed it out. I did end up crimping the hose off to slow it down. I ended up using about 9 gallons to make sure it was fully flushed and after I re drained the pan and put a new filter in and pan gasket. When I had it running it slowly turned red then it was just all at once. I then drove it for a bit and then drained and dropped the pan to replace all that. It did shift a little bit better.

If someone had one of those cheap 250gph fuel transfer pumps from harbor freight using it to push the fluid back into the system would work great. so it has a total circulation.
Click to expand...
I really ment to post something in response to you today or yesterday. I've had bad reception lately at home.
On any other vehicle that cooler is pressure fed on one side. The other side just dumps into the pan. I would expect that allison to be the same way, but I could be wrong.

So the way the Trans flush machines work is they have a pressure vessel with a diaphragm across the middle. So you fill one side of it with the fluid, it collapses the diaphragm to the bottom. The port at the bottom is hooked to the pressure line coming from the Trans, the top hooks to the other side of that fitting.

So when you start the vehicle the pressure that the Trans produces on that line, fills the vessel from the bottom and pushes the fresh fluid out of the top and into the cooler. Then of course there is a bypass valve when it gets full.
 
B

Beast52

New member
32
0
0
Location
Wyoming
Can any one tell me, does the front end engagement on the transfer case need air to both sides, to engage and to disengage? Or does it diengage by air release?
 
Jbulach

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,654
2,170
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
simp5782 said:
Flushed the transmission today. The front pump is not fast enough to suck from the bucket. It does get emptied very fast. I did 2 videos of how I did it. It is a standard JIC Fitting on the filter/cooler unit. I used 3/4" hose. The flow comes out of the front of the transmission cooler back thru the filter then to the transmission I then put the bucket in the cab and just used the hand pump and filled it while it pushed it out. I did end up crimping the hose off to slow it down. I ended up using about 9 gallons to make sure it was fully flushed and after I re drained the pan and put a new filter in and pan gasket. When I had it running it slowly turned red then it was just all at once. I then drove it for a bit and then drained and dropped the pan to replace all that. It did shift a little bit better.

If someone had one of those cheap 250gph fuel transfer pumps from harbor freight using it to push the fluid back into the system would work great. so it has a total circulation.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't recommend this. Maybe some automatic transmission gurus can jump in here. I did this years ago on a pick up truck and killed the transmission. From the way it was explained to me is, you are starving the transmission. Basically the only thing that is be a lubricated is the pump, the fluid does all its business after the cooler.
 
tobyS

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Working on my M35A3 with the AT1545 it was explained that the pump feeds the valve body and clutch pistons, then goes to the torque converter, then out to the cooler and feeds back into the tranny which lubricates all the bearings. In my case, a worn input hub on the torque converter could let fluid leak and then the pistons will not hold, burning up clutches. Burned up clutch will generally not pass the filter but any debris that gets out of the torque converter will contaminate bearings and or deposit in passages.

So what we are worried about is keeping lube where it needs to be while removing the old. If there were a direct input to the pump and you had an elevated supply, that would seem to be the optimal solution. Simply putting fluid into the return line would seem to work, but it would mix with old fluid and there is no or little suction. Expecting it to siphon from a container does not seem to be a good choice, since there is no actual suction where the return line puts it into the tranny.
 
Last edited:
simp5782

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,122
9,366
113
Location
Mason, TN
Well all flush machines usually use shop air to force it back into the system. Well the BG one I used did this. Just watched the sight glass across the front for the ATF to get clear and all the old dirty stuff to get by it. but I am certain that the use of an electric pump to push it back into the system would work. Just use the JIC fitting at the filter. Not like you need to use the filter cause what is going back in is clean. I took mine out today for a 50mile drive and I towbar'd another 923 back home then headed back and did it again. No issues. I can notice a better shift when I am empty. I just hate the power I lose when the torque converter locks up.
 
D

DinoShepherd

New member
43
0
0
Location
Sisters/OR
Funny story, check it out.

Big thanks to simp5782 for helping me with a quick diagnosis.

Truck has always been a strong runner. Clean rebuild. Never to the sandbox.

Anyway, would not build air. No pressure. Nada. Very strange, it worked last nite. Very bad timing with July 4 here. I have visions of compressors and unloaders and valves and pipe and relays and connectors and hundreds...

Wes suggested starting with the dryer, so I did. Even though I was wanting to dive to compressor and regulator. Crawled under the truck and felt the line going into the dryer. Pulsing, so it's getting air. Big relief.

I then felt air coming from around the middle of the air dryer. A clue. Messed around with the dryer. Knocking on different areas. And the air stopped. Pressure builds immediately and it started making all its happy air noises. Expello seems to be closing tight. I cleaned best I could, shot some wd40 up there because the can was close. Took it for a spin and everything is cool.


I think I will treat BigGreen to an MRAP dryer this month.

Update: stupid spin.on cartridge will not stay tight.
 
Last edited:
Andyrv6av8r

Andyrv6av8r

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,200
457
83
Location
Spartanburg,SC
I installed a backup camera in the wife's 923A2. Now maybe she will be able to back into the driveway without hitting something!

20160701_162334.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,697members
165,189threads
2,324,299posts
1,249online users
Top