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Glad-hands

rustystud

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There is a thread in the regular deuce section about Glad-hand service air-hose lengths I've been following. A few days ago someone was talking about how the valves must be open to use the air and that they open opposite to what you would normally think they should. I remember dealing with them a few times in the past, thinking they where open when in reality they where closed. Also my emergency valve was sticking real bad. So I decided to replace the valves. I had some 1/2" NPT Stainless Steel valves and fittings so I decided why not use them.
I finished the replacement today. I figured I should be posting something here in the deuce section since I've been working for so long on the CUCV .
 

rustystud

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I used my super secret decoder ring and came up with HardWare. Maybe the OP (Original Poster o the question) will chime in and confirm or refute this deciphering.
OK if that's what he means then I assume he wants to know where I bought the stainless steel valves correct ? There are several places on the Internet that has good deals on stainless steel fittings and valves. One that comes to mind right now is www.stainlesssteelfittings.com . Another is www.pneumadyne.com . The last that I can think of just off the top of my head is www.mcmaster.com . I have bought at other places too I would just have to dig through my shipping orders.
I should add that I have buckets of new parts. I have buckets for brass fittings, steel fittings and stainless steel fittings. When I'm working on a project I'll usually buy extra parts just in case. These extra parts go into the buckets. So if you want the exact company I bought the part from I can only guess.
Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

dmetalmiki

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I used exactly the same set up on my deuce a few years ago, to operate the brakes (on the deuce) when being towed by my wrecker, or the 5 ton. A useful source for air supply for inflation etc as well. (Red. Emergency line. And Yellow, service line).
I believe there is a post way back somewhere on the modification. But I can not find it, must be on the old forums pre-move.
 

rustystud

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For those who don't want to buy new valves you can change the handle position. You must grind off the handle pin and drive it out, then reposition the handle and drill a new hole for the new pin or small bolt. These original valves are quality units but they are the "wedge" friction sealing type and I don't like that style. The Teflon seal units are far superior and much easier to turn.
 

rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Yes, HW = hardware.

I checked my truck yesterday and my valves work properly.
The problem I find with the "Wedge" style valves is they will be working great one day then the next day they get something stuck in the valve and it takes a 300Ibs gorilla to turn the handle. Last month mine where working fine then last week after all the talk about glad-hands I went out to check them and I couldn't turn the "Emergency" one. The "Service" one worked great. After I took them off I could see some "gunk" had built up in the valve. Since these are "wedge" action valves that gunk gets pushed into the sides and then the valve just becomes impossible to turn. Now I don't have to ever worry about them again !
 
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