New head gasket - advice on oil leak

[cattlerepairman]

Block surface checked for flatness, factory-new heads, new-style headgasket (latest).

Non-TD block. Torqued in stages up to 130 ft.lbs.

During second hour of operation I wailed on it a bit more. I noticed ok EGT (1100) but the turbo happily boosted to 15 psi and a bit beyond. I eased up and that was that.

Befor this run, the heads were bone-dry. After this run there is a clear track of oil from the passenger side head gasket.

No active leak. No running issues or weird noises. No oil in coolant.

Should I re-torque right away (had not planned on retorquing new style gasket) or turn down the fuel and chalk it up to experience?
Chances that damage occurred?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I doubt any dammage occurred. Recheck torque and go back at it (inmho).

 

[WillWagner]

Where is the leak starting from? IIRC, the heads are oiled at the front rt side....could be mistaken, old age ya know! so if it is on the fuel pump side, it ain't a h-gasket. Also, a leak always starts out high and ends up on a lower portion of the engine, look higher for the point of origin.

 

[cattlerepairman]

The leak seems to be from the HG behind the exhaust manifold (of course; anywhere else you could actually see it!!). There is a chance it is the valve cover, but I doubt it. Oil pressure on the rebuild is really good, runs at around 90 psi when fully loaded.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon assembly (double-checked).
I wonder if the "new style head gasket does not need any re-torque" is really true.

I did not re-adjust valves; the engine did not move during valve train removal and it went on the same as it came off.

Test drive: runs fine, no strange noises, no leaks, dry block when I came home. I am carefully optimistic!

Also, noticed absolutely no blow-by on idle today. I think the rings are getting seated!

Also...I really should put a fan on....did not want to mount the stock steel fan back onto the water pump. I want to get a nylon one, but have been driving without fan. It is summer hot here, and the coolant sits at just over 200, goes up to 220 when leaning into it. Probably runs cooler with a fan. Radiator was cleaned/repaired and flow tested and I flushed the coolant system. I guess the LDS runs a tad hotter than the LDT.

 

[rustystud]

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon assembly (double-checked).
I wonder if the "new style head gasket does not need any re-torque" is really true.

I did not re-adjust valves; the engine did not move during valve train removal and it went on the same as it came off.

Test drive: runs fine, no strange noises, no leaks, dry block when I came home. I am carefully optimistic!

Also, noticed absolutely no blow-by on idle today. I think the rings are getting seated!

Also...I really should put a fan on....did not want to mount the stock steel fan back onto the water pump. I want to get a nylon one, but have been driving without fan. It is summer hot here, and the coolant sits at just over 200, goes up to 220 when leaning into it. Probably runs cooler with a fan. Radiator was cleaned/repaired and flow tested and I flushed the coolant system. I guess the LDS runs a tad hotter than the LDT.

Just go with an electric fan. There are some NOS 24 volt military ones on eBay right now for under $20.00 . If you want I can give you a link. I plan on installing the two I bought when I get all these other projects done.

 

[brianp454]

Get other projects done. HA! I keep shooting for that and it never happens...

Just go with an electric fan. There are some NOS 24 volt military ones on eBay right now for under $20.00 . If you want I can give you a link. I plan on installing the two I bought when I get all these other projects done.

 

[Wildchild467]

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon assembly (double-checked).
I wonder if the "new style head gasket does not need any re-torque" is really true.

I did not re-adjust valves; the engine did not move during valve train removal and it went on the same as it came off.

Test drive: runs fine, no strange noises, no leaks, dry block when I came home. I am carefully optimistic!

Also, noticed absolutely no blow-by on idle today. I think the rings are getting seated!

Also...I really should put a fan on....did not want to mount the stock steel fan back onto the water pump. I want to get a nylon one, but have been driving without fan. It is summer hot here, and the coolant sits at just over 200, goes up to 220 when leaning into it. Probably runs cooler with a fan. Radiator was cleaned/repaired and flow tested and I flushed the coolant system. I guess the LDS runs a tad hotter than the LDT.

I would still adjust the valves. even after I retorqued my heads, I noticed the valves got a little tighter. Its easy to do and is zero cost. Also I would put your fan back on. Getting it over 200 would make me a little nervous. No sense on getting things hotter than they need to be if it can be prevented. Just my opinion on the fan. As for the valves, definitely adjust them after every re-torque. You will be surprised.

 

[Wildchild467]

What pistons are you using?

 

[cattlerepairman]

What pistons are you using?

I re-ringed the 3-ring pistons that were in the engine; they checked out ok. Engine was already rebuilt once by Continental.