Best way to check prime?

[wheelspinner]

With the pressure I have added to the system via the filler neck, fuel dumps out of the strainer at the filter. Still nothing though.

You need the active pressure while cranking. Its a two-man job.

 

[Bucho]

You need the active pressure while cranking. Its a two-man job.

I had rigged a way to do it by myself so that there was pressure while cranking.

 

[Bucho]

Did you check to see if the glowplugs are getting power?

After further researcher here, I decided to test the plugs. I know they are getting power, via a test light. I put an ohm test to them. I grounded off of the block, and pulled each boot separately and each one says 0.00. It is my understanding that they are supposed to read 2.0? Does this mean all this was for nothing and I need to pull them, or am I still doing something wrong?
Everything that I have tried has left me with still no fuel at the injectors.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Yes there is supposed to be some resistance. I forget how much. Put a clear line on the return yes at the front of the pump about 3 inches long or so. If you see fuel flowing when you crank it's a good sign. If you see a lot of air, you are sucking air from somewhere. Still betting glowplugs. I didn't seem to get much fuel at the injectors when I had my problems. They probably used ether at some point or you did? I know on mine they did to get it rinning and then I did after I put new plugs in, I was having a leaky pump. Got the seals replaced and they still couldn't get it to start. I ruined the glowplugs I pUT in just using ether a few times.

 

[Bucho]

Yes there is supposed to be some resistance. I forget how much. Put a clear line on the return yes at the front of the pump about 3 inches long or so. If you see fuel flowing when you crank it's a good sign. If you see a lot of air, you are sucking air from somewhere. Still betting glowplugs. I didn't seem to get much fuel at the injectors when I had my problems. They probably used ether at some point or you did? I know on mine they did to get it rinning and then I did after I put new plugs in, I was having a leaky pump. Got the seals replaced and they still couldn't get it to start. I ruined the glowplugs I pUT in just using ether a few times.

Yep I think that is the problem.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Now the fun begins.....I had to buy a glowplug puller and still broke off a little chunk from one. I didn't notice the tip missing started it up and talk about a racket.....luckily it happened to get out the exhaust valve after 30 seconds of running..... JJ and A racing products has the puller. Make sure you buy glowplugs with the bullet connector 24V.

 

[Bucho]

Now the fun begins.....I had to buy a glowplug puller and still broke off a little chunk from one. I didn't notice the tip missing started it up and talk about a racket.....luckily it happened to get out the exhaust valve after 30 seconds of running..... JJ and A racing products has the puller. Make sure you buy glowplugs with the bullet connector 24V.

I will research. Hopefully I get them quick.

 

[cwc]

It could be that your control box is powering the glowplugs all the time causing them to burn up. My Nartron box was powering the glowplug relay all the time, and had several things connected to the output of the relay that should not have been, such as the #5 wire to the alternator. And several things that should have been driven by board logic were directly wired together, such as the starter connection. It appeared to be that way from the factory...it never could have worked right.

Just as a point or reference, I recently took off my intake manifold and injector lines to detail the motor, along with changing the fuel filter. I used tank pressure to force fuel out the vent fitting of the filter, used a small funnel to fill the rubber line going to the IP (everything very clean!) and then connected it quickly to minimize air getting in. Then with the lines loose at the injectors, it took 40 seconds of cranking (10 seconds 4 times, waited 10 minutes between) to get fuel at each injector. Then cranked with glowplugs disconnected until some smoke appeared, then connected glowplugs and it fired right up.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

If you are in Phoenix, and it is hot outside, it should start even if the glow plugs are bad.

I'm in FL and I could start my truck after a couple cycles of cranking when I had bad glow plugs.

So back to the fuel issue. Can you smell fuel from the exhaust, when you try to crank? Of you loosen an injector line where it enters an injector, and you crank it, do you get fuel squirting out or not?

 

[Bucho]

It could be that your control box is powering the glowplugs all the time causing them to burn up. My Nartron box was powering the glowplug relay all the time, and had several things connected to the output of the relay that should not have been, such as the #5 wire to the alternator. And several things that should have been driven by board logic were directly wired together, such as the starter connection. It appeared to be that way from the factory...it never could have worked right.

Just as a point or reference, I recently took off my intake manifold and injector lines to detail the motor, along with changing the fuel filter. I used tank pressure to force fuel out the vent fitting of the filter, used a small funnel to fill the rubber line going to the IP (everything very clean!) and then connected it quickly to minimize air getting in. Then with the lines loose at the injectors, it took 40 seconds of cranking (10 seconds 4 times, waited 10 minutes between) to get fuel at each injector. Then cranked with glowplugs disconnected until some smoke appeared, then connected glowplugs and it fired right up.

Admittedly this is my first go around. The "control box" you reference is the one I have read about under the dash by the left knee of the driver? The one there is the KDS with the yellow sticker. Also the temp gauge on the back is the yellow one. I am assuming that all of it is connected together correctly.
I have fuel up to the filter (driver side firewall) and when I was pressuring the tank, it would free flow out the drain. I wasn't using a huge compressor, but I thought it would do the trick. I also pulled the hose from the filter that goes to the center of the IP while cranking and a ton of fuel comes out. From there, I have nothing.
I spent 3 hours yesterday, with lines cracked, pressure and everything else I could think of and barely had any fuel drip out the of the lines that were cracked up at the IP. I was told by our shop mechanic to start there. By the time I closed them based upon advice here, there was enough fuel to get the top half of the IP wet but there was never a drop to be seen falling from the open lines into the valley. I never saw anything at the injectors. I could only break free 2 at the block, the others would turn the whole thing instead of just where the line connected.
I did that for 8 -10 seconds while waiting about 30 seconds in between each crank.

 

[Bucho]

If you are in Phoenix, and it is hot outside, it should start even if the glow plugs are bad.

I'm in FL and I could start my truck after a couple cycles of cranking when I had bad glow plugs.

So back to the fuel issue. Can you smell fuel from the exhaust, when you try to crank? Of you loosen an injector line where it enters an injector, and you crank it, do you get fuel squirting out or not?

No I can't say that I really smell fuel at the exhaust, nor do I see any smoke.
I have not been able to get any fuel to come out of the injector lines.
I will put a clear hose on the return of the IP as mentioned previously by others.

 

[Bucho]

So here is where I am at.
The tank is about half full, of fresh diesel.
The truck was last started at inspection prior to auction in Sept of last year. It was empty per the gauge when I got to it.
There is power to both wires on the top of the IP and to the glow plugs. The glow plugs when put to a tester read 0.00.
I have a good supply of fuel to the filter, which I pulled and looks clean. I can not find any leaks from the injector back to the fuel tank, I traced the lines all the way back.
I have no smoke at the exhaust and nothing really coming out of the intank. The only place I have seen a slight amount of smoke was where the trans and motor mate, which I was guessing was the starter.
I have tried pressure, lines cracked and nothing.

 

[Action]

I didnt crack my lines. I completely unscrewed them from the injectors and placed a towel under each, one at a time until fuel flowed. If you have smoke at the starter, you may be cranking it too long. You should only crank a few seconds each time.

 

[cwc]

Are you getting a distinct click at the IP when you turn the switch to run?


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[Bucho]

I didnt crack my lines. I completely unscrewed them from the injectors and placed a towel under each, one at a time until fuel flowed. If you have smoke at the starter, you may be cranking it too long. You should only crank a few seconds each time.

I read here somewhere that you should crack the right rear, so i completely disconnected it. I have not been able to get anything. Yep, I learned that the hard way in my younger years about starters.

 

[Bucho]

Are you getting a distinct click at the IP when you turn the switch to run?


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I am, but I thought that was the KDS which sends signal to the GPC and that is what makes the click. Then the light blinks for about 7 seconds.
I will double check that it is the IP later tonight.

 

[Action]

The light is not supposed to blink. It is probably doing that because of the dead plugs.

 

[Bucho]

The light is not supposed to blink. It is probably doing that because of the dead plugs.

Ok, I thought I had read somewhere on here that when you turn the switch to run, the light was supposed to come on and blink for a short period and then shut off. I also thought that if it stayed on that meant there was an issue.
If I understand you correctly, the light should come on solid for seconds and then shut off?

 

[Action]

Yes, it is supposed to stay on for a few seconds. It will be lit at the same time the glow plugs have power. If the engine is already warm, say you go in a store and come back out, the light should not come on at all. because there is no need for the plugs to warm up.

 

[Bucho]

Yes, it is supposed to stay on for a few seconds. It will be lit at the same time the glow plugs have power. If the engine is already warm, say you go in a store and come back out, the light should not come on at all. because there is no need for the plugs to warm up.

Ok so then I think the Glow Plugs are shot. But what an I missing to getting this thing started?