My MEP003a story and Hertz issue

[Another Ahab]

I have a 93 Suzuki Intruder 800, and a 2012 Yamaha Midnight Star 1300. These are my everyday bikes.

Also in the garages, (I rent 4 extra garages) is a 1990 Yamaha 650 Drag Star, a 2017 Ninja 900, a Yamaha 250 dirt bike, a 1938 R-23 BMW 250, (needs some work, but 98% there) a 1954 Victoria KR125, (in boxes) a 1951 Victoria KR125, (my parts source) and several others that the kids have added without me knowing much about it.

That's an interesting collection of motorcycles. I'd love to see the R-23 running! I'll end my hijack, but it's always fun to find out our other hobbies overlap.

I used to ride a BMW R-50/2; I'm real fond of the BMW machines (especially those opposed twin cylinders, actually might have saved me from losing my foot one rainy day).

I don't mean to drift too far, but it sure would be sweet if you could post a pic.

 

[Another Ahab]

You are right.

BUT is it full output voltage if it comes through or from a Currant transformer? Now that I think about it, there are at least two transformers AND the freq transducer in the control cabinet.

So yes, its AC. My mistake. Keep mixing up the DED and the MEP sets. And the MEP sets also have AC, but only the meter I think. And TB's also.

I am not paying a lot of attention. We are having another terror attack here in germany, and I have been reading and listening with with only half a brain. At least 6 dead. Many wounded and the crap heads are still unaccounted for. Been on the horn to friends in München and its a mad house. Supposedly the crap heads have split up and are in several different parts of the city. And the new stations are not broadcasting reliable news. Oh well.

That is horrible, and I send prayers that you remain safe and unharmed. And my additional prayers here sent for the victims of the brutality.

 

[RGJ58]

Hello all thank you for your responses as well as i would like to give a special thanks for SS member Guyfang for his continued help. It appears to me that someone went through my generator set and disabled a bunch of key systems. After knowing what i know now about the frequency transducer i realize now that the output should be in DC forum. I observed several cut wires and smashed connection on the frequency transducer it self so i removed it and fixed all these issues. After reinstalling it and reinstalling the old hertz gauge it worked as it should and i was able to set the unit at 60 hertz.


I still however did not have any charging system DC so i removed the front cowling to see why. Once i did so i observed two wires on the back of a fuse cut off with no clue where they should lead and then another wire disconnected from a power distribution block. I tested two wires that appeared to be coming from the stator and they read 37 volts DC i assume that is good news.




I am not sure exactly what is missing here so i did not try to reconnect anything yet and was hoping someone here would have some insight on where everything goes.

 

[Triple Jim]

You're doing a great job of getting this generator back in working condition. Keep it up!

The bottom photo shows where the DC regulator should be, but it's missing. It bolts through the three holes. The two stator wires connect to it, and it has two wires that go to the fuse holder, and also a positive 24v output wire. Ground is through its mounting bolts to the generator frame.

 

[Guyfang]

If you clean up a bit around the TB, (terminal board) you will find the TB number. When you know that, you can check the wire diagrams and schematics to see what gets hooked up to the TB, and where it goes. All the wires have wire numbers, so this should not be a show stopper. Two of the wires go to the fuse holder. I would de solder the cut wires from the fuse holder and replace them with wires long enough to reach the TB again.

And, as Triple Jim saw, the DC volt regulator gets hooked up there also. I suspect someone needed a volt reg more then he thought you needed a volt reg.

 

[Triple Jim]

Actually, a replacement regulator will have two wires coming out of its top that go to the fuse holder. The terminal block should have the two battery charging alternator's stator wires and the 24v wire out to the battery on the bottom three terminals. The regulator connects to those wires via the top three terminals.

That wire hanging down with a screw in the ring terminal is likely to be the wire that carries 24v from the regulator to the battery. If the rest of the wiring is still OK, use caution because it has battery + on it.

Used and NOS regulators are usually available, and I make a new replacement. Some guys just get a small 24v charger made for something like wheelchair battery charging and plug it into the convenience outlet so it charges the batteries when the generator is running.

 

[RGJ58]

I did not have time to go out and work on the unit today but i would like to thank all that posted a reply. I was not aware that the voltage regulator was missing but it makes sense now as i could not find out where it was located. I also thought it was odd that you had wires going to no where. So i assume that purchasing a new 24v regulator is a must since it is missing. I did a little research online and found new never used military examples as well as new production units for around 150 dollars give or take. I like those units that you make Triple Jim they look to be built with very good quality. I am now also wondering if the charging system problem might possibly have something to do with why the fuel shut off solenoid would not hold open when i let go of the start knob? Again thanks to all that are willing to share there knowledge to help people like me that know very little bring a old piece of equipment back to life!

 

[jamawieb]

I did not have time to go out and work on the unit today but i would like to thank all that posted a reply. I was not aware that the voltage regulator was missing but it makes sense now as i could not find out where it was located. I also thought it was odd that you had wires going to no where. So i assume that purchasing a new 24v regulator is a must since it is missing. I did a little research online and found new never used military examples as well as new production units for around 150 dollars give or take. I like those units that you make Triple Jim they look to be built with very good quality. I am now also wondering if the charging system problem might possibly have something to do with why the fuel shut off solenoid would not hold open when i let go of the start knob? Again thanks to all that are willing to share there knowledge to help people like me that know very little bring a old piece of equipment back to life!

In response to your comment about the fuel solenoid shutting off when you let go of the start switch. When starting the unit, it bypasses the 2 safety switches (oil pressure and temperature). When you let off the start switch, if these two are not reading, the unit shuts down because it thinks it doesn't have oil pressure or the temperature is to high. You can use a jumper wire on both safety switches to see if they are working. But since several items on the unit have been tampered with, they may have also disconnected the temperature switch so it wouldn't stay running. The temperature switch is behind the exhaust flaps and goes directly into the block, they may have just disconnected the wires.
The batteries could play a part in the fuel solenoid shutoff but they would have to be extremely low for it not to hold and your fuel pumps would stop too.

 

[Another Ahab]

I like those units that you make Triple Jim they look to be built with very good quality. I am now also wondering if the charging system problem might possibly have something to do with why the fuel shut off solenoid would not hold open when i let go of the start knob? Again thanks to all that are willing to share there knowledge to help people like me that know very little bring a old piece of equipment back to life!

And even though there some of us not helping you with advice, we appreciate the lessons from the learn-ed; and we're rooting you on, brother.

 

[Guyfang]

If the batteries are so low that the solenoid and switches are not working, then it would never start.

Good call jamawieb! I did not think about further tampering. A short piece of wire and insulated roach clips, oops, alligator clips, is an integral piece of troubleshooting equipment. Never leave home without it!

 

[Another Ahab]

IGood call jamawieb! I did not think about further tampering. A short piece of wire and insulated roach clips, oops, alligator clips, is an integral piece of troubleshooting equipment. Never leave home without it!

 

[RGJ58]

I received this very quality built looking regulator from triple Jim and proceeded to install and wire it up. I was happy to see that the regulator came with installation instructions as that is very helpful for a generator newbie like me!

I know my multi-meter is a cheapo! However it would appear to me that the DC charging system is working at-least in my mind as anything over 24v is charging the batteries. I was measuring the above voltage directly from the batteries and my stator was producing 37v.

So at this point the AC side and the DC side are running well and the Hertz gauge is fixed due to having found the frequency transducer being disconnected. The only thing left is I just need to figure out my fuel cut off solenoid problem since i use a long screw driver to turn the unit off.

 

[oldgenset]

if you have power to the solenoid, You may be able to repair the solenoid itself. I just got my mep-003a and the solenoid was intermittent so I took it apart, I figured I didn't have anything to lose.
remove the screws on the wire posts. Be careful to not rotate the stud. After all screws and washers are removed, you can work the housing up and off the posts. Inside you will see a pair of contact points. Take some emory paper and drag it on all point surfaces until they are shiny again. Then put it back together. I did this, and Now the solenoid is working perfectly gain.
Hope this idea helps.

 

[Triple Jim]

I know my multi-meter is a cheapo! However it would appear to me that the DC charging system is working at-least in my mind as anything over 24v is charging the batteries. I was measuring the above voltage directly from the batteries and my stator was producing 37v.

Yes, it looks like you have DC charging now. With some run time, the battery voltage should reach something over 28, and level off before 29. As the charge current levels off, the yellow LED on the regulator should start coming on to let you know.

 

[RGJ58]

OK i would like to say thank you to everyone who has helped me along the way in solving the various problems with the Mep003a that i bought. As well as sorry that it takes me so long to reply but work has been rough! I know that i seemed to have solved the issue with my Hertz gauge by reconnecting the transducer however after working for a while it stopped again so i decided to by-pass it and install the Yokogawa 254350AJ-AJ9 gauge that i had. I took a few pictures maybe to help someone else like me that had no idea what they were doing at first.


I removed the Frequency transducer with the thought of using the AC input side to power the new gauge as it requires 120v AC.


I took the wires that run down to the place where the old gauge was and connected them securely to the AC input wires that used to run into the frequency transducer.


I made sure to insulate and secure the new wiring setup


Now with 120v AC at the new gauge it measures Hertz properly as it does not require the AC current to be converted to DC to work. The new Yokogawa 254350AJ-AJ9 gauge also fits into the original hole and it is not required to do any drilling or cutting.

 

[87Nassaublue]

Wow, it sounds like your 003 was in a similar condition to my 016B that I recently finished repairing. That thing was loaded with extra gifts but I whipped it into submission! Good Job, hang in there. It sounds like you're getting close to getting yours back 100% too.