Windshield wiper parking problem?? More unusual that your average case!

[RickTheEngineer]

Howdy folks, wishing everyone a great weekend. Has been raining here for several days so the CUCV (M1009) has seen a lot of rain, and thus the need for wipers. Whenever I turn the wipers off, they usually park at the right spot (maybe .5 inches from the lowest portion of the wiping action at its tip). However, today I ran the wipers for 2 continuous hours on a road trip back home, however when I turned the wipers off, it consistently parked 3 inches up from its normal location. BUT THIS IS WHERE ISLT GETS WEIRD. When the truck engine isn't running it parks pretty close to normal, but when it's running it's pretty far off! Could it be because the motor is hot from continuous running time? Any thoughts? Contacts are good, wiper has been funtional. I recently sprayed a linkage with some T9 to lube it up a bit if that changes anything.

 

[Ordak]

Well that is very strange, Just out of curiosity did you try turning it off at different points (1/4 way, 1/2 way, etc)? Could you move them down to the "normal" position by hand? If that is the case perhaps it is just loose or it could be when you are moving it is raising them up from the speed your traveling.

 

[RickTheEngineer]

Yep, and it still returns too high especially when running. Also, I can't move them by hand, they are indeed too high, and it wasn't when driving. I was parked at the time when I noticed! Weird huh?

 

[Ordak]

I am puzzled, I have had my fair share of weird problems on vehicles this one is something new.

 

[cucvrus]

I would throw my hat in the ring and ask that you try a rebuilt wiper motor. You can then narrow down the problem. They are about $50. exchange and the rebuilt is warranted for life. And also may I suggest you check and clean the ground at the wiper motor? Good Luck. I hope it is not in the switch. This winter I am going to make another attempt at mastering the wiper switch replacement. But at $100. for a good used column the switch replacement is not a cost effective repair. Thank you. Have a great day.

 

[RickTheEngineer]

I will definitely look into it if that is what it comes to haha, but as a side note, I noticed today that when I turn my wipers on, and they are actively running their full wipe cycle, it actually doesn't go as far as they used to by about an inch... How is this possible when the whole thing replies on the rotation of the motor and the links which have been unaltered?

 

[cucvrus]

If I was to properly diagnose this issue i would remove the hood and cowl screen. Then remove the wiper transmission linkage and check it all out. it may be tweaked or bent a bit. But that area can always use a bit of cleaning and some touch up. It is a dirt trap under that cowl screen. Also a good time to grease and oil the wiper transmission linkage. And do it right with grease and real oil. No WD40. That is like using sugar water on parts. it works for the moment and then the moments gone. Nothing replaces an oil squirt can and some 30 W oil. And a little chassis grease goes a long way. Have at it and report back. make a fun project out of it and fix and paint everything as you go. if the bolts are rusty replace them.

 

[Tinstar]

I would bet that a good cleaning and new grease as mentioned on the joints will help a ton.
Totally agree on the WD40. Perfect for lots of things. Horrible for lots of things.

Cleaned mine and some good lithium grease on joints and replaced unit with a rebuilt ACdelco one.
Flawless ever since.

 

[sschaefer3]

I bought a rebuilt motor from 1986 and installed it and the newer tank with an electric motor, I think it works a lot better then the 1984 version. You can go to the Chevy Dealer and still get the GM gasket between the pump and tank, which is much better quality rubber, the pump motor and tank I have came from LMC. Wiper motor was AC Delco rebuild.

 

[nyoffroad]

When pulling the wiper linkage out there's no need to remove the hood! Just remove the two hinge bolts on each side while a helper holds the front of the hood up, once bolts are out just let the hood pivot on the springs and lower the front. The rear of the hood will be up in the air and easy to work around.
WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER!

 

[jpg]

If both wipers are in the wrong place, I would look first at the bolts that fasten the wiper motor to the firewall. If these are not solidly holding the motor in place, that could cause the symptoms you describe.

 

[rustystud]

I will definitely look into it if that is what it comes to haha, but as a side note, I noticed today that when I turn my wipers on, and they are actively running their full wipe cycle, it actually doesn't go as far as they used to by about an inch... How is this possible when the whole thing replies on the rotation of the motor and the links which have been unaltered?

The wiper motor has what I call a dead spot on the ring (commutator) that powers it. When it has power the motor spins around and when power stops the motor continues to run until it hits this dead spot on the commutator ring. If this "ring" has moved due to wear then the wipers will stop at different places. I agree with cucvrus and just get a rebuilt motor. As far as the linkage being loose, it will not effect the stopping place of he wipers. They will just flop around a bit. Remember the motor always spins in one direction and does this continuously until power is stopped. The back and forth motion is achieved due to the linkage arms at the wipers. Think steam boat paddle wheels.

 

[cucvrus]

When pulling the wiper linkage out there's no need to remove the hood! Just remove the two hinge bolts on each side while a helper holds the front of the hood up, once bolts are out just let the hood pivot on the springs and lower the front. The rear of the hood will be up in the air and easy to work around.
WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER!

On a nice clean, pristine truck it worth your while to remove the hood. Makes life easier for both you and the truck. Hanging forward out over the brush guard is not my idea of working smarter. Just sayin. When that hood is off a true enthusiast will find about 2 dozen things to clean, and fix. Why not? Not many times you can even get right in there at the fire wall with the hood obstruction in the way. Do it right the first time is a great motto to follow. I always ask why there is time to do it right the second time after the first time was a cobbled up rush job. It's a simple task. Good Luck and peace.

 

[rustystud]

On a nice clean, pristine truck it worth your while to remove the hood. Makes life easier for both you and the truck. Hanging forward out over the brush guard is not my idea of working smarter. Just sayin. When that hood is off a true enthusiast will find about 2 dozen things to clean, and fix. Why not? Not many times you can even get right in there at the fire wall with the hood obstruction in the way. Do it right the first time is a great motto to follow. I always ask why there is time to do it right the second time after the first time was a cobbled up rush job. It's a simple task. Good Luck and peace.

Couldn't have said it better ! There is an old saying among mechanics " if there isn't enough time to do it right the first time, there will be time enough for the second time" .

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Totally agree on the WD40. Perfect for lots of things. Horrible for lots of things.

Does a good job of displacing water, like advertised. Good as a gentle solvent for cleaning up moving parts that have gotten gunked up with old lube.


Then follow up with a decent lube, because WD40 is not a decent lube! Like the man said, here today, gone tomorrow. And as a penetrating oil, fuggedaboudit.

 

[rustystud]

Does a good job of displacing water, like advertised. Good as a gentle solvent for cleaning up moving parts that have gotten gunked up with old lube.


Then follow up with a decent lube, because WD40 is not a decent lube! Like the man said, here today, gone tomorrow. And as a penetrating oil, fuggedaboudit.

WD-40 also makes an excellent fluid when cutting aluminum . When I had to cut 1/2" and 3/4" sheets of aluminum I would use the 7-1/2" Milwaukee Hypoid drive saw and WD-40 spray. Also works great for drilling in aluminum. But your right Marcus, it is terrible as a lubricant and penetrating fluid.