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Mile Marker Winch Operation

Stevepsc

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Conway, SC
I bought a M1038 hmmwv with a Mile Marker hydraulic winch. No controller. So I bought a controller off of &bay. Plug it in, fire up the truck and try it. It feeds out under power, but does not winch in the cable. I read something about 2 different types of controllers, but I did not understand how to get around it.

I considered rewiring the control wire. If I reverse the connection the is power feeding out cable to the other conductor, in theory the winch should pull cable in.


Has anyone else had this problem? If so, can you rewire the connections or do you need another controller all together?


steve
 

Stevepsc

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Conway, SC
So it is not supposed to operate winch cable out? I was not sure if it would power the winch cable out and in. Do I take the handle apart to change the wires or the coupler end?

steve
 

Retiredwarhorses

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I bought a M1038 hmmwv with a Mile Marker hydraulic winch. No controller. So I bought a controller off of &bay. Plug it in, fire up the truck and try it. It feeds out under power, but does not winch in the cable. I read something about 2 different types of controllers, but I did not understand how to get around it.

I considered rewiring the control wire. If I reverse the connection the is power feeding out cable to the other conductor, in theory the winch should pull cable in.


Has anyone else had this problem? If so, can you rewire the connections or do you need another controller all together?


steve

We have no no idea what controller your purchased....milemarkers are a distinctive yellow plastic controller.
 

Stevepsc

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Conway, SC
Ok. Until last night I was not aware that the type of handle you had made a difference. So forgive me for not knowing to share that I have the black(wrong) type.

That being said, the question i need an answer to is,

Does the power spool the cable out? What I mean by that is, when you engage the out selection on the control handle does the winch free spool and you pull the cable off the reel, or does it actually power turn the drum? The reason why I ask that is mine will power the drum and spool cable off, but does not pull the cable back in when I use "in" on the control handle. I am trying to figure out if I can modify the control handle I have or will I have to buy the yellow type for mile marker? There are only 3 wires in the control handle I have and the yellow type. My electronic background and the schrmatic I looked at tell me there are only 3 possible combinations. All contacts open, contact 1 to contact ground, or contact 2 and ground, so that being said, I should be able to rewrite the handle I have, or change the order of the wires at the winch and make my handle work. The only thing not accounted for there is if the metal connector is a fourth point of contact.

My wife went on eBay and did a nice thing. She bought all the things I had in my watch list without telling me. She was bummed last night that the control handle didn't work, so I am trying to make it work, so she won't feel bad for doing a nice thing for me.

Any constructive help is appreciated.

Steve in SC.
1986 M1038
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Most winches have a "free spool" position so that you can pay out all the cable needed for a recovery, you never want to payout your cable for long lengths via the motor.
but still, with no pic of your actual controller, I have no idea what you have, sorry...but there are just to many controllers on the market lately on eBay and I've noticed a lot of them are not what's the norm for a Hmmwv winch....be it electric or hydraulic.
 

Stevepsc

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It is a hydraulic winch. I will get pictures later today. It was too dark last night to get good pictures.

The free spool thing i understand, what I didn't was the power pay out. When you push the switch on the control handle to out the winch I have powers the roller to feed out the cable. I don't know if that is normal. If it is then I the plan I had to just rewire the handle prob won't help. I will provide more info later. I do appreciate any help that I can get.

steve
 

Stevepsc

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Conway, SC
I bought the proper controller for the mile marker (yellow), so I did not cut the wires. I paid 50 bucks for the right one, so I am going to offer the black one for sale.
 

Gear Report

Active member
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Location
Nc
You should have 3 wires White , Black , and Green. Switch the green with the black wire and it should take care of the winch not winding back in.
I have the exact same issue with ebay cable (NSN 2590-01-448-1105, Cage 3B8L1, P/N 12447171).
I have taken the screws out of the clamp on the collar in hopes of taking the plug apart to swap the green and black wires. Can the wires be pulled out and swapped in the housing, or do I need to cut and splice them to switch them. Probably a dumb question, but I haven't had one of these plugs apart and am hesitant to try to take it apart.
 

Bill McClung

New member
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Location
Monroe, NC
You need to go in further, unscrew the cap and you have to get out the clear cap inside as well as the Grey isolation insulator between the pins out, take needle noose pliers and grab the back of the pin and use the case as your fulcrum and pry the pins out. You will need to also cut the Grey isolator with a razor length wise, if not the Grey isolator will not go back in since the wires are crossed now
 

Bill McClung

New member
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0
1
Location
Monroe, NC
I made the switch of the pins and have just tried it out, doesn't work, all I have done is reverse the switch operation, still doesn't spool in, now it just spools out while pressing the "in" button. I must have another issue.
 

3000gt

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hernando ms
Run a jumper wire from the common lead to one of the other 2 wires. note which direction it goes then take jumper wire and connect to other wire (should be opposite way). u can buy a cheap toggle switch to get u by.
 

AndyC

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Lovettsville Va
I made the switch of the pins and have just tried it out, doesn't work, all I have done is reverse the switch operation, still doesn't spool in, now it just spools out while pressing the "in" button. I must have another issue.
Bill, there are 3 different controllers. If you have the push button one you will need to switch the white wire connector end to green handle end - black wire connector end to white handle end and green wire connector end to black handle end!

If you have the toggle switch controller you need to switch the black wire connector end to white and the white wire to black wire. Leave the green wire alone.

If you have the yellow controller it should work with no mods!
 

Gear Report

Active member
265
45
28
Location
Nc
You need to go in further, unscrew the cap and you have to get out the clear cap inside as well as the Grey isolation insulator between the pins out, take needle noose pliers and grab the back of the pin and use the case as your fulcrum and pry the pins out. You will need to also cut the Grey isolator with a razor length wise, if not the Grey isolator will not go back in since the wires are crossed now
I don't see a way to further unscrew the cap. Do you have a picture of one disassembled? I've searched online and found nothing.
 
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