need some 006 assistance. Fires right up, but won't stay running...

[yrkhummer]

It is a low hour (100) unit that looks like it had the Exciter, Voltage Regulator box Part number 30554-70-1367 recently replaced as it looks brand new.
I should also mention that they volt meter doesn't work and looks like someone left the smoke out.
Also worth noting that the frequency adjustment pot doesn't make the frequency go up or down...

I replaced all of the fuel filters, and more recently two of the fuel lines. It did this same thing before replacing the fuel lines.

When I fire it up, it starts right up and I can adjust the frequency using the manual cable adjust method.
Once it runs for about 30 seconds, you can hear the motor slowing down and the frequency also drops along with the motor speed.
Pulling out on the manual cable adjustment does not make the motor increase speed at all at this point, but does when it is first started up.

I was originally thinking that it was getting air in the fuel system somewhere as the one fuel line was leaking, but it does start right up and replacing the fuel line hasn't helped at all.

It does look like someone was messing with the load measuring unit. Would a faulty LMU make it shut down like this?
The motor will keep slowing down until it shuts off by itself if I don't shut it down using the run-stop switch.
No idiot lights are being thrown.

Ideas??

 

[yrkhummer]

More info that I forgot to post. If I immediately restart the unit it will only run for say 10-15 seconds. If I wait say a couple of minutes it will then again run for about 30 seconds.

I found some more info on cough another sight about the day tank not getting filled up. I am going to try the battle short ON and switch ON to try completely filling the tank up to see if this helps. If so then it looks like I either have a bad float switch or a bad K1 relay.

It's sleeting here now so i'll try this in the AM

Any other ideas??

 

[goldneagle]

It sounds almost identical to what happened to my 15KW unit. It ended up it was the check valve on the return line coming from the Injector Pump was clogged. My return line from the IP intersects the return line from the injectors. (they share the same line returning to the fuel tank) There is a check valve right at the IP before the T intersection. In the check valve is a small glass ball. that is where it clogged -causing back pressure into the IP. IP will shut down. If your IP shares the fuel return line with injectors try adding a small tube to it and run it directly to a temporary fuel can. (disconnect the IP return from shared return line) If the generator runs OK with temporary bypass then you found your problem.

In my case I was told to eliminate the check valve to resolve the issue permanently. It worked.

 

[yrkhummer]

Thank you very much, going to give this a try. Your 15kw unit sounds very similar if not the same as mine. The injector return line T's with the IP return, and both go back to the day tank.

It sounds almost identical to what happened to my 15KW unit. It ended up it was the check valve on the return line coming from the Injector Pump was clogged. My return line from the IP intersects the return line from the injectors. (they share the same line returning to the fuel tank) There is a check valve right at the IP before the T intersection. In the check valve is a small glass ball. that is where it clogged -causing back pressure into the IP. IP will shut down. If your IP shares the fuel return line with injectors try adding a small tube to it and run it directly to a temporary fuel can. (disconnect the IP return from shared return line) If the generator runs OK with temporary bypass then you found your problem.

In my case I was told to eliminate the check valve to resolve the issue permanently. It worked.

 

[Guyfang]

YRK,

This is good info from GOLDNEAGLE.

Also put some kind of cleaning fluid into the day tank. Injector cleaner, or what ever. Sometimes the check valve get a little build up on it and then you see the problem EAGLE described. Or just remove the valve and soak it in cleaner. If all else fails, like EAGLE wrote, toss it. The only problem it will maybe cause is that your fuel lines do not stay charged, and the set is harder to start.

As a matter of fact, I always filled up the day tank and ran the fuel pumps before starting the set. Just a habit I formed after working on the 60 KW (and all other genset for that matter)gen sets.

The 60 KW was a PITA to get all the air out of the fuel lines. I like to break the last injector line, at the injector, and have someone start er up. After you get a good stream comming out, crank down the fitting. Oh, do NOT completely remove the line. It tends to really gush out if you do.

The LMU has nothing to do with this kind of problem anyway.

You said the set is a MEP-006A. The MEP-006A is a utility set, hence, no engine/hertz control from the R-1 Frequency Control Rheostat. ONLY from the manual adjust.

Maybe you need to review the -12 manual. Starting procedures and differences between the three different models are described very well it it. If you do not have the manuals for the MEP-006A, they are in the manual/TM section of SS.

To test the float switch, remove it from the tank. Holding it in your hand, plug in the canon plug again. Place the S2 Start/Run/stop switch in the run position. Move the top float up and down. It should turn on and turn off your fuel pumps in relation to position of the float. Be careful of doing this too long! The day tank could, (it happened to me!!) overfill, and as the float switch is not in the tank, make a wonderful mess.

The bottom float should turn off the engine in case of the day tank running out of fuel. You can also test the floats with a multimeter, using the schematics. It's easy.

 

[yrkhummer]

Thank Guy
I have a feeling that the check ball is what is going on.

I'm also going to check out the float switch for proper operation.

The electric pumps do run when in battle short and run so I know that they work.

I will have to read up more in the manuals )

I do have all of them, just not enough time to dig through them all.

I do have startron diesel treatment and fresh fuel in the main tank and the day tank.

Thanks!

YRK,

This is good info from GOLDNEAGLE.

Also put some kind of cleaning fluid into the day tank. Injector cleaner, or what ever. Sometimes the check valve get a little build up on it and then you see the problem EAGLE described. Or just remove the valve and soak it in cleaner. If all else fails, like EAGLE wrote, toss it. The only problem it will maybe cause is that your fuel lines do not stay charged, and the set is harder to start.

As a matter of fact, I always filled up the day tank and ran the fuel pumps before starting the set. Just a habit I formed after working on the 60 KW (and all other genset for that matter)gen sets.

The 60 KW was a PITA to get all the air out of the fuel lines. I like to break the last injector line, at the injector, and have someone start er up. After you get a good stream comming out, crank down the fitting. Oh, do NOT completely remove the line. It tends to really gush out if you do.

The LMU has nothing to do with this kind of problem anyway.

You said the set is a MEP-006A. The MEP-006A is a utility set, hence, no engine/hertz control from the R-1 Frequency Control Rheostat. ONLY from the manual adjust.

Maybe you need to review the -12 manual. Starting procedures and differences between the three different models are described very well it it. If you do not have the manuals for the MEP-006A, they are in the manual/TM section of SS.

To test the float switch, remove it from the tank. Holding it in your hand, plug in the canon plug again. Place the S2 Start/Run/stop switch in the run position. Move the top float up and down. It should turn on and turn off your fuel pumps in relation to position of the float. Be careful of doing this too long! The day tank could, (it happened to me!!) overfill, and as the float switch is not in the tank, make a wonderful mess.

The bottom float should turn off the engine in case of the day tank running out of fuel. You can also test the floats with a multimeter, using the schematics. It's easy.