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M35a2 465 Psb6a injection Pump timing.

MattJ

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Honeyville Utah
Well I think I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My M35 injection pump stopped working. I pulled the pump off the engine, probably my first mistake was removing the pump.

I took the Hydraulic Head (HH) off the pump. I got looking and the head has a timing mark which I lined up to remove the HH.

I noticed later the pump has its own timing mark under a cover in front of the HH. The timing mark for the pump and the HH head do not line up together when the pump timing is set on the pointer. Are they supposed to line up?

I found the reason the HH was not working was the high pressure pump piston in the center of the head was gummed up. I cleaned it and it moves freely. I'm just not sure about the two timing marks and if they have to align with one another. Any help would be awesome:)
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
Cincy Ohio
Well I think I've bitten off more than I can chew.

My M35 injection pump stopped working. I pulled the pump off the engine, probably my first mistake was removing the pump.

I took the Hydraulic Head (HH) off the pump. I got looking and the head has a timing mark which I lined up to remove the HH.

I noticed later the pump has its own timing mark under a cover in front of the HH. The timing mark for the pump and the HH head do not line up together when the pump timing is set on the pointer. Are they supposed to line up?

I found the reason the HH was not working was the high pressure pump piston in the center of the head was gummed up. I cleaned it and it moves freely. I'm just not sure about the two timing marks and if they have to align with one another. Any help would be awesome:)
They do not line up!
The mark inside the fuel shut-off area is only to show you when to take the hydraulic head out.
The mark under the 4bolt window, in front of the hyd head is to time it to the motor.

Now, all that said, when you bolt the IP to the motor, you'll need the valves in the no.1 cyl to be closed. Thats how you know your at TDC(the correct comp stroke).
You want to be at the LD mark on the harmonic balancer if you do not have a turbo, LDT/LDS mark if you have a turbo.
The last step is to look at the window in the fuel shut off. If you can see the red/scored tooth, your good to go. JUST SEE IT, NOT BE LINED UP.
If you cannot see it, you are 180* out of time, spin the IP over once.

Post up if you have more questions.
 

MattJ

New member
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Location
Honeyville Utah
Thanks, that was exactly what I was going to ask next was how to time it without pulling the front cover, I noticed I didn't see any timing marks in the IP drive gear. It's actually a pretty best way to set the pump up.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
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I forgot!
In addition, the front gear of the IP has one nut in the center and three bolts around the gear face. Loosen all 3 bolts so the gear can move independent(ish) of the shaft its on. Slide the IP into place and with the center nut, line up the tooth in the 4 bolt window with the score on the disk. Once thats done tighten up the 3 bolts, all set.

Re-assemble everything else.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Interlachen Fl.
Jello

Gear should look like this on install. Also it is much easer to install the gear after the IP is install and bolted down. Then put in the drive gear as the pic shows and check the timing. Adjust if needed by the center nut and when correct tighten down the three bolts on drive gear. If you try and slide the IP and gear on the way the gears are cut it will rotate the IP shaft and timing will be way off.
 

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