Uneven brake pad wear

[Drock]

So I just changed my front brake pads. And both outer pads were worn, but the inside or piston side pads are barely worn? Also sense installing the new pads, the truck stops significantly better. The calipers & pads were the first things I replaced when I bought the truck 30000 miles ago.

 

[cucvrus]

I don't know if it is an M1009 or an M1008/M1028/M1010/M1031. But the all have slides that need to be kept lubed and cleaned. If they cannot return to nuetral and slide away. They just keep getting clamped to the disc. In other words the piston in the caliper pushes and that squeezes the caliper and brake pads when under pressure. When the pressure is released the piston in the caliper retracts and the caliper slides a bit into neutral. Little or no pressure in neutral. If the slides stick the piston returns and the piston side brake pad has little/no pressure but the outer pad is still held a bit tight and the caliper can not slide back into neutral/no pressure position. Does that make any sense? i always replace/clean the slide bolts and bushings on M1009's when I change brakes. And on the trucks I buff/polish the slide area on the caliper and caliper bracket. I also lube them with caliper lubricant. It is good to do on occasion during routine maintenance. I hope that helps. Happy Holidays.

 

[Chaski]

+1 on the caliper grease. I kept having issues on my front Dana 60 when I was using aluminum anti seize on the caliper. Now everything works much better after a good cleaning and synthetic caliper grease.

I didn't know the stuff existed until it was mentioned on the forum.

 

[cucvrus]

So I just changed my front brake pads. And both outer pads were worn, but the inside or piston side pads are barely worn? Also sense installing the new pads, the truck stops significantly better. The calipers & pads were the first things I replaced when I bought the truck 30000 miles ago.

And if you had Autozone brakes you could have taken them back and had a free replacement pair handed to you. I have ceramic brakes on my M1009's they seem to hold up well. And I bought them and the calipers at none other then Autozone. Just saying. The truck has stopped for the last 100K so no problems here. Happy Holidays.

 

[cpf240]

I really dislike floating calipers...

 

[cucvrus]

I really dislike floating calipers...

Yea I agree. They just keep stopping my truck everywhere. I just want to keep going. But that's the way it goes. I think after 40 some years of use they sure have proved to be an effective way to stop vehicles. Millions of vehicles can't be wrong. Happy Holidays.

 

[Drock]

Sorry it's a M1028 so I guess that means it's a Dana 60? It doesn't have the pins the calipers just slide on a groove. this is the lube I used originally & just now.

 

[doghead]

Ever drive in mud?

 

[cpf240]

Yea I agree. They just keep stopping my truck everywhere. I just want to keep going. But that's the way it goes. I think after 40 some years of use they sure have proved to be an effective way to stop vehicles. Millions of vehicles can't be wrong. Happy Holidays.View attachment 655754

I prefer solid calipers with pistons on both sides so the caliper hanging up on the slides isn't an issue. Never said they didn't work, just feel there is a better way.

 

[Drock]

No mud, this truck lives on the highway. I got 30000 miles out of this first set of pads. So I figure if I can get the calipers to function properly I should get at least a third more life out of this next set?

 

[rustystud]

I don't know if it is an M1009 or an M1008/M1028/M1010/M1031. But the all have slides that need to be kept lubed and cleaned. If they cannot return to nuetral and slide away. They just keep getting clamped to the disc. In other words the piston in the caliper pushes and that squeezes the caliper and brake pads when under pressure. When the pressure is released the piston in the caliper retracts and the caliper slides a bit into neutral. Little or no pressure in neutral. If the slides stick the piston returns and the piston side brake pad has little/no pressure but the outer pad is still held a bit tight and the caliper can not slide back into neutral/no pressure position. Does that make any sense? i always replace/clean the slide bolts and bushings on M1009's when I change brakes. And on the trucks I buff/polish the slide area on the caliper and caliper bracket. I also lube them with caliper lubricant. It is good to do on occasion during routine maintenance. I hope that helps. Happy Holidays.

I prefer solid calipers with pistons on both sides so the caliper hanging up on the slides isn't an issue. Never said they didn't work, just feel there is a better way.

Problem is almost all calipers are sliders. It is extremely costly to build 4 piston calipers and only aftermarket has them except for a very few high-end vehicles.

 

[Ordak]

I have had problems with caliber slides in the past but with a little cleaning and some grease they work well. I would imagine with a 4 piston caliper it has a higher chance of wearing uneven due to 1 of 4 piston sticking or hanging up versus having just 1 or 2 pistons. Yes the same thing could be said with slides but keeping them greased should alleviate that issue. I have never worked with 4 piston calibers.

 

[rustystud]

I have had problems with caliber slides in the past but with a little cleaning and some grease they work well. I would imagine with a 4 piston caliper it has a higher chance of wearing uneven due to 1 of 4 piston sticking or hanging up versus having just 1 or 2 pistons. Yes the same thing could be said with slides but keeping them greased should alleviate that issue. I have never worked with 4 piston calibers.

Your right about the sticking piston issue. I have worked on 4 piston calipers on our buses and some other vehicles and they can be a pain.

 

[Drock]

So I guess my question boils down to this. Is there a different type of grease or lube I should try? Perhaps just anti seize?

 

[cucvrus]

If it were me. I would remove the calipers and use a 2" rolok disc and polish the caliper brackets at the mounting area and the calipers in the mounting contact grooves. I would either polish the wedge and filler or get a new one. I just put rebuilt calipers and new fasteners on the Easter Find rebuild project. After everything was painted I polished both areas and applied caliper lubricant. This truck still had the OEM front pads on it and they were still half decent. I put new ones on anyway. But that is my advise. others may vary. But it works on my trucks. Happy Holidays.

 

[Drock]

If it were me. I would remove the calipers and use a 2" rolok disc and polish the caliper brackets at the mounting area and the calipers in the mounting contact grooves. I would either polish the wedge and filler or get a new one. I just put rebuilt calipers and new fasteners on the Easter Find rebuild project. After everything was painted I polished both areas and applied caliper lubricant. This truck still had the OEM front pads on it and they were still half decent. I put new ones on anyway. But that is my advise. others may vary. But it works on my trucks. Happy Holidays.View attachment 655900

I just walked in the house from doing just this LOL!! There was some (slightly) rusted spots but I cleaned them up with a wire brush and a piece of sand paper. Re-lubed everything and put it back together. The only other thing I could think of was maybe I was installing the little, jamb nut, spring, slide thing in incorrectly? But it only seems to go together one way, with the tabs of the spring facing down.

 

[cucvrus]

You done good. That is the correct way. Thanks for reporting back. many times people ask for help and then all you get is crickets. Never hear back again.Happy Holidays.

 

[Drock]

Well.... A new problem has reared its ugly head. I just got back from a 100 mile trip and the drivers side caliper is holding pressure. I pulled it all apart AGAIN! And with the caliper off and sitting on top of the axle. I pumped the brakes and the piston moves out. I used a compressor to push it back in and reinstall everything, but same problem? I cracked open the bleeder and some of the pressure released, could it be a proportioning valve?

 

[cucvrus]

Could it be the caliper? The calipers are not expensive. But I am not sure that the proportioning valve would just effect 1 side. I only seen them go bad by leaking. But I guess it is possible. But I would try the caliper first. Less then $30. core was $25. last time I bought them. happy Holidays. Good Luck.

 

[rustystud]

Well.... A new problem has reared its ugly head. I just got back from a 100 mile trip and the drivers side caliper is holding pressure. I pulled it all apart AGAIN! And with the caliper off and sitting on top of the axle. I pumped the brakes and the piston moves out. I used a compressor to push it back in and reinstall everything, but same problem? I cracked open the bleeder and some of the pressure released, could it be a proportioning valve?

Replace your hose's. This is a common problem. The inner lining starts to break down and you can get "flaps" of lining that act as valves holding brake fluid in or not allowing brake fluid to enter. I went with the PTFE hose for mine years ago and have had no problems since. These are the same type of hose "Peashooter" was selling for the deuce. You can find them in Summit's catalog (website) or Jeg's. Just type in stainless steel Teflon brake hose.