Engine Runs Like Poop

[cpotato2001]

been three daze
not heard a thing here

That's the result of a 50hr work week and 3 nights of school,


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[frank8003]

That's the result of a 50hr work week and 3 nights of school,
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I forgot what I taught myself
The only difference between working and being retired is that now I decide when I will be tired and what I will do next.
Worked for 49 years and be done now and did forget really fast about schools and work weeks.
my bad

 

[cpotato2001]

I forgot what I taught myself
The only difference between working and being retired is that now I decide when I will be tired and what I will do next.
Worked for 49 years and be done now and did forget really fast about schools and work weeks.
my bad

I would be a lot happier if I had time to work on things that make me happy. I am hoping things slow down a little bit soon. I will get to it soon! ; )


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[7Dust]

Checking in. I really suck at this.

1. Pulled radiator to put breaker bar on front bolt just to be sure. Put pointer on front pulley marker per FSM for LDT 465 C (I have LDT 465 D but should be the same).

2. Checked window on injection pump. Its spot on the mark.

3. Pulled cover from hydraulic head. Hard to see - but I can see the red mark - just not sure if its spot on. Should be - its a NOS injection pump and I did not monkey with the HH timing.

I'm pretty sure engine is at TDC because I pulled valve covers before when I checked.

SO - now I'm thinking I need more fuel? I have a 100 psi fuel pressure gauge I picked up from Ebay. Do I hook this up to the bolt on top of the fuel filters with the spring underneath? What kind of bushing do I need to make the connection? Of course the fittings that came with the gauge do not thread in. :/

 

[7Dust]

How do I turn up the fuel if I decide to just go rogue and see what happens?

 

[SCSG-G4]

How do I turn up the fuel if I decide to just go rogue and see what happens?

Search for threads on turning up the fuel, usually done one or two 'flats' at a time. A pyrometer is usually recommended between the exhaust and the turbo as the first step (too much fuel= hotter exhaust temps, esp under load) because the pistons will start melting at 1200 degrees F. Have you 'pop tested' your injectors (I can't remember if you said you did). There are several threads about doing that and getting them all up to snuff before starting on the fuel delivery increase.

 

[7Dust]

Checked fuel pressure today at the bleed on top of the fuel filters.

7 PSI from the lift pump with engine stopped.

49 PSI with engine running at idle.

Is this good?

 

[rustystud]

Checked fuel pressure today at the bleed on top of the fuel filters.

7 PSI from the lift pump with engine stopped.

49 PSI with engine running at idle.

Is this good?

That's good.

 

[7Dust]

To update:

Fuel tank is spotless and new filters. Fuel pressure A-OK per rustystud (thanks!).

Injection pump is NOS off ebay. Verifed timing at Harmonic Balancer, IP, and HH.

Symptoms:
Hard to start. Must monkey with the Go Pedal to get to fire off and monkey some more to find idle spot or it dies.

Sometimes surges over and over - hunting for idle.

Way down on power when driving. Slow to rev.

Seems to lose prime if left sitting a bit.

No visible external leaks.

Dies on deceleration - engine sometimes wont "catch" itself when RPMs fall. Have to use pedal.

Do not want to turn pedal linkage up - idles a little high when it finally idles.

 

[Floridianson]

I would start by double checking timing. Harmonic Bal. on correct mark and # one pistion is TDC. Four bolt cover on IP/ Advance unit window on mark and the Head is now one tooth to the rear of it's pointer. From there we will tweek the IP. Is the FDC bypassed? Needs to be done but ether way you might need to check Droop or increase main just a bit to help in the starting. As for the fuel 4 min. on intank, 30 min. on idle and 60psi min. at 2000 rpm.
Most important is to remove valve cover and watch intake drop and close to find TDC!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[7Dust]

Ive pulled radiator and valve cover to ensure the timing is spot on at TDC (taken radiator out twice to make sure).

I cannot find a procedure to set droop but think that is my next step (based on my searches).

Can someone point me to specific TM or a walkthrough post?

 

[Floridianson]

Not a TM but Trouble shooting the 465 is a good one for trouble shooting and set ups. Posted by G
I don't know if you even have a droop. You might just have smoke cam. So the easy way is since the FDC is bypassed just remove the whole FDC and look inside for the droop screw. Then it is done through the rear plug that we take out and use a allen on it. The droop is very touchy. Need to remember how many degree's it is turned. You could turn it one half turn and test. What we are looking for is a truck that is running good and we tweek it. So if every thing is right then we are looking for the lowest droop setting that the motor will start at. Any lower it won't. Counter clock wise will increase fuel on the droop.

 

[texas30cal]

This may seem like a stupid question, but is the fuel fresh? I ask bc I didn't really think diesel could get very bad, much less bad enough for one of these to not run well on it, "they are supposed to run on anything" right? Lol. I recovered two trucks a couple months back from Brazoria Tx, the winch truck ran, but would not start without throttle, would only run smooth above 1500, and would surge from about 500-1800 then die if I gave it no throttle. If I let off the throttle REAL slow it would sometimes idle for a few seconds, then surge, after surging a few times it would finally fall and not catch itself and die. Changed filters, drained tank added 15 gal fresh fuel and a quart of atf. It ran better and tried a little harder/longer to stay running at idle but would surge and die. We hit the road, it was very weak, about 5 miles down the road we filled it up with diesel and another quart of att. 30 miles later all was well and is to this day!!!! Both trucks had been sitting, without being started for 2-3 yrs, the other (not the one we drove home) truck had a stuck HH which was just gummed up, the fuel in both was orange and smelled like turpentine and pesticide of some sort, the previous owner had left them full but when we got to them they were half empty. I'm assume all the good stuff evaporated and left the junk behind? Anyway, sorry for the long story but it sounded VERY familiar when you mentioned it had been 2 years and I wanted to tell it so it made sense to you, I hope.

 

[texas30cal]

Well poop,I just went back reading again and saw, fresh tank of fuel, dam

 

[frank8003]

Perhaps it is not anything you did wrong.........
post #1 is bought + installed "a NOS injection pump".
To me "NOS" implies it should be all as per design and tested BUT
many times that is NOT what it ends up to mean.
I wish I had a known good one to install in there without changing anything else.

TM 9-2910-226-34 applicable information
and a few pictures





There probably is no longer a running test stand but we all wish there was.
TM 9-2910-226-34 page 3-103

 

[texas30cal]

While we are thinking about the nos ip, I just o ringed two hydraulic heads, if that bridge across the fuel cutoff shaft is a little too tight it can make it surge and die. Maybe it's too tight in the new pump?

 

[frank8003]

A couple years ago the truck stopped running - from what appeared to be a snapped quill shaft in the Injection Pump. Over the course of a confused year or so I bought a NOS injection pump and gave it my best to install it. Well, my best wasn't good enough. Truck was extremely hard to start, made gutless power and died on deceleration most of the time. SO, it sucks and I let it sit.

I am going to try again to fix it and the only thing I can think of is I got the injection pump timed incorrectly. I am pretty sure it was at TDC (but I suck at this so who knows) and I timed it to the mark on the harmonic pulley for an LDT 465 1C (I think). I am also pretty sure I had the IP mark lined up correctly AND the quill shaft timed (I think).

Ive had months and months and months to think about why my truck sucks and it occurred to me that my truck shows to be an LDT 465 1D on the engine plate. Will it use a different mark?

FSM TM9 2815-210-34-2-2 Page 5-172 Doesn't show a mark to use for an LDT 465 1D - so I guessed.

Please note which pump model was replaced with which pump model.
That information would alleviate some concerns......................

 

[7Dust]

Solved.

I hate reading through trouble threads and never finding out what the solution was.

In my case, the sluggishness was caused by a slightly sticky fuel rod AND mostly I think that the fuel screw adjustment was out of whack on the bypassed FDC.

I swapped my old FDC on (which had old settings) and played with the fuel rod until it moved freely.

I hope this helps someone else out so they don't go through the same frustration I did.

 

[rustystud]

Solved.

I hate reading through trouble threads and never finding out what the solution was.

In my case, the sluggishness was caused by a slightly sticky fuel rod AND mostly I think that the fuel screw adjustment was out of whack on the bypassed FDC.

I swapped my old FDC on (which had old settings) and played with the fuel rod until it moved freely.

I hope this helps someone else out so they don't go through the same frustration I did.

If your "Fuel Density Compensator" was bypassed then it would not matter at all if the adjustment screw was out of adjustment. The sticky "operating rod" would cause all the problems though.