FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Mark1954]

Ok, who won the heaters?

No me!

 

[Mark1954]

One thing I forgot to mention is that there are two versions of the Group 31 Optimas. One has regular battery terminals, which allows using the original battery cables, and the other has the better 5/16" studs that would require modifying the cables.

Thanks!

 

[The FLU farm]

Ok, who won the heaters?

From what I heard, it's irrelevant who won them. The price went up so high that it'd be cheaper to burn dollar bills in the cab for warmth.

 

[MSMOG]

From what I heard, it's irrelevant who won them. The price went up so high that it'd be cheaper to burn dollar bills in the cab for warmth.

I was still bidding when my phone died. EI has them for $525. There were 7 brand new units. I needed at least one. Figured as long as I had less than $1000 total in the deal after shipping, I would be ok. Not particularly upset that I didn't get them though. The deal was a lot more attractive at the starting bid of $25 for the lot!

 

[The FLU farm]

http://livhaven.com/blog/hydac-stat...olutions/?utm_source=FTemail&utm_medium=Email

If the above link works (never tried this before), you can learn about a new potential problem for us FLU owners.
Apparently fighting off rats and chasing rust particles in the air system are only parts of the battle, now there's risk for internal thunder and lightning, too.

Yes, I like to learn, but in cases like this...? There's something to be said for being in the ignorance-is-bliss camp.

 

[Another Ahab]

Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water....

 

[General Hood]

I was still bidding when my phone died. EI has them for $525. There were 7 brand new units. I needed at least one. Figured as long as I had less than $1000 total in the deal after shipping, I would be ok. Not particularly upset that I didn't get them though. The deal was a lot more attractive at the starting bid of $25 for the lot!

I bid on them up to the last 3 minutes, when I realized the $$$ was going beyond my comfort zone

 

[FOD]

http://livhaven.com/blog/hydac-stat...olutions/?utm_source=FTemail&utm_medium=Email

If the above link works (never tried this before), you can learn about a new potential problem for us FLU owners.
Apparently fighting off rats and chasing rust particles in the air system are only parts of the battle, now there's risk for internal thunder and lightning, too.

Yes, I like to learn, but in cases like this...? There's something to be said for being in the ignorance-is-bliss camp.

As a chemical engineer with over 20 years in the petroleum industry I can say this smells like some serious marketing BS.

 

[The FLU farm]

As a chemical engineer with over 20 years in the petroleum industry I can say this smells like some serious marketing BS.

Thanks, FOD. Hearing that saved me from the hassle of pouring the old 10W back in again.

 

[Mark1954]

I got 2 new batteries from the Interstate. I think they were a little over $200 each, but they bolted right in, all of the cables hooked right up. Also they are very large, so I don't expect to ever have starting problems. I felt the same way about having to build a new way to secure them.

I pulled the batteries to check water levels, charge levels, etc. One was 70% and the other 95%, so I suspect I may have some other issue, although I may have a dead cell or something, how does that affect a 2 batteries in series system? They are about 7 years old. (Mfg 2011)

 

[The FLU farm]

I pulled the batteries to check water levels, charge levels, etc. One was 70% and the other 95%, so I suspect I may have some other issue, although I may have a dead cell or something, how does that affect a 2 batteries in series system? They are about 7 years old. (Mfg 2011)

When just sitting with the main switch off, they're just two batteries with individual properties.
When you're running the engine (charging) they are both happier, but it's not perfect.
It's if you leave the master switch on with the engine off that the batteries' differences have an effect. Now the 70% battery will drag its 95% neighbor down to its level. Two batteries hooked together will always have one that is worse, and that one will win.
Put a good 12 Volt charger at a low setting (about 2 Amps) on the 70% battery (ideally with desulfation) and you might be able to bring it back.
It might take several days, but worth it if it works. Otherwise, please do yourself a favor and buy two new batteries. Ideally they should have come off the assembly line one after the other.

 

[Mark1954]

Thanks, I kinda figured that's where we were, I can still use the survivor to power a winch on a trailer for it's remaining life.

 

[The FLU farm]

Mark, you'd be surprised what desulfation can do for aging batteries. From cheap BatteryMINDers to very effective Canadus products, there are several ways to revive old batteries and to keep any battery alive longer.
It may be coincidental, but the battery in my Jeep is an Optima deep cycle prototype - that's about mid Nineties. The batteries in the Pete are from 2008. I have regular wet batteries still in service that are from the late Eighties. Found out about desulfation technology around '90 and have faithfully used it ever since.

 

[FOD]

Thanks, FOD. Hearing that saved me from the hassle of pouring the old 10W back in again.

If you look at their little chart on the bottom left it mentions Group 1 fluids having high zinc and heavy metals content increasing the conductivity. Any decent hydraulic fluid should not be high in zinc and heavy metals. The other two groups in the study show little to no conductivity which is likely what you are already using (meaning you probably don't need to try and fix a problem you likely don't have). If you are using standard conventional motor oil from 1985 you may want to consider a change of fluids

 

[The FLU farm]

If you look at their little chart on the bottom left it mentions Group 1 fluids having high zinc and heavy metals content increasing the conductivity. Any decent hydraulic fluid should not be high in zinc and heavy metals. The other two groups in the study show little to no conductivity which is likely what you are already using (meaning you probably don't need to try and fix a problem you likely don't have). If you are using standard conventional motor oil from 1985 you may want to consider a change of fluids

After looking at the results of the analysis of the "hydraulic fluid" in my SEE (as well as most all of them offered at GP), that 10W oil came out rather quickly.
In the process I changed to AW-32, thinking that maybe it was better to run hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics rather than regular oil. Easier to come by, too.
Besides, as top heavy as a SEE is, to also have heavy metals up there in the backhoe's hydraulic circuits doesn't seem appealing.
Heck, I removed the spare and tools to get the CG down a bit, not only making it a wee bit less likely to roll but also easier to get back on its wheels when I do.
And as far as having sparks blow holes in the filter goes, in my case that's most likely to happen when I hit our underground power - which is before the transformer, so supposedly a few hundred thousand Volts. So far I've only dug up some pieces of red tape, which should be about six inches above the cables.

 

[Another Ahab]

And as far as having sparks blow holes in the filter goes, in my case that's most likely to happen when I hit our underground power - which is before the transformer, so supposedly a few hundred thousand Volts. So far I've only dug up some pieces of red tape, which should be about six inches above the cables.

As long as you're not grounded, um, you SHOULD be fine!


https://youtu.be/6_NEAEGeFIw

 

[The FLU farm]

As long as you're not grounded, um, you SHOULD be fine!

I must admit that I was holding onto the levers by the knobs only. Surely that would've made all the difference had I snagged the cables.

 

[General Hood]

Hey, are you insinuating that I should slow down when driving my AH Bugeye, or Lotus Super 7 replica?? They're already quite a bit slower than the 300-hp MGB I recently sold, and there's a limit to how slowly I can drive. On the road, that is.

And speaking of leaving things behind in the rear view mirror, does anyone here happen to have an extra pair of mirror brackets for a SEE?
I don't need the mirror heads, but the tubing and the little brackets that hold the tubing to the cab.

Hey Flu Farm, you have already slipped and told us you used to race, so this is how I visualize you in the HMMH heading to town

 

[The FLU farm]

Hey Flu Farm, you have already slipped and told us you used to race, so this is how I visualize you in the HMMH heading to town
View attachment 656507

Close, Mr. Hood, but no cigar. As of now anyway, the HMMH only has one strobe light on top, no additional lighting (although all the work lights are changed to LED) and there are two spot mirrors (larger than what is pictured) added.
I like the idea of bigger front wheels, though. It would allow lifting stuff higher than what's possible now.

 

[BigBison]

Good point, Mr. Hood. But please remember that I already bought two of those fancy laminated things.
And now that Ahab alerted the enemy (in a roundabout way) to my plan, I may have to get moleskin seat covers. If that even helps.
Might have to install a stereo in the SEE so I can play the Kinks song Rats. Loudly. 24/7.

Oh, I love the Kinks! I've been to Europe where taxi drivers favor sheepskins, but Hong Kong and China, they all have those bead thingys. My SEE seats are pristine, the HMMH seats could use some beady seat cover thingys!