Cross Reference STARTER REPLACEMENT Help

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

Hey my friends,

I need to know what starter to buy to replace mine that just caught fire last night. and looks like I'm going to do the dog mod under the dash too. need a new controller card because of the trouble shooting, I did hear the thump. here we go .... etched onto my starter is: 1109563 ... the sticker #'s: 10496887 ... and also 323 375

I found a starter on ebay new... here is the item number.. can i use this starter? ebay item #: 171214725020. oh yeah, i noticed the starter cable that runs to the firewall buss was caroated at the starter. when attempting to losen it it crumbled away. so looks like i need a starter cable, or if anything the metal end and splice it onto the cable, cause i can just cut a few inches off and crimp a new metal starter cable end.

Other starters I found on ebay but not sure they're the right ones. some of them are lower in Kw. If I'm not mistaking from the Tm. my original starter is pushing 4.5Kw. I do believe that's right. I read people are replacing the old starters with newer ones. saw some youtube vids on this stuff. the FB forums aren't helping. Read the TMs but I'm also not running the original military batteries. So I gotta work with what I got and get the truck running. plan on doing the doghead mod ( NAPA Part # SME 7018601 ) I'm guessing this is the best one to go with to do that doghead. So need some help my friends.

So I do believe I need:
New starter
glow plug controller card
glow plug solenoid/relay that is on firewall next to the brakes master cylinder (don't think so but maybe).

 

[Tinstar]

Do a search for cucv starter.
Also read the stickies
You will fine all the answers to your questions there.
Its been covered many times before.

 

[Stonepicker1]

Be careful on the eB*Y one that your looking at. Its not a DELCO...see part number they listed...SNK0033 by Total Power Parts. Also see their feedback.

 

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

thanks stonepicker and Tinstar. ... update: after reading all the sticky. already read the starter section of the TM before posting this thread. But never-the-less, gave it the benefit of the doubt and spent another full day sitting on my ass reading. Unfortunately unless I'm missing something I didn't see a cross reference of new RD starters that replace the old DD starters, since you can't buy these DD starters anymore looks to me like everyone is rebuilding them. I think it would be really helpful for those who don't feel they would successfully rebuild a starter completely (myself being one of them) to have a reference chart where you have the original delco DD starter numbers etched on the starter with a brand new RD starter that someone can look at the chart. see their DD starter and see the equivalent or replacement to buy. I certainly didn't see anything like that.

it appears to me the only part of the starter that is now bad in my situation is the relay on the top. I didn't find any information on what relay is specific to my starter, so I don't know what relay to buy if I can even get away with just purchasing that part. Not concerned with the doghead relay upgrade and wasn't my question in this thread. I even stated I knew the doghead relay part number and was going to get it from napa. I really only need to gain information specifically about this starter I own as to what if any there is a new relay that can be purchased to replace. Or what new starter equivalent will be the replacement since these old DD starters are no longer available. I'll also be hitting up the local GM to grab me that new bracket I'll need it's looking like since I don't be able to use the old one on a new RD starter.

Stonepicker = that part# you mentioned is the manufacturer ARROWHEAD's equivalent PN. They list several alternative manufacturer PNs to reference to assure you're buying the right starter. Which I found rather nice of them. see this info from there listing. the doubt I'm having is my starter # is ( 323 375 95 A and 10496887 ) ... there listing has 323 375. but doesn't list the other one. however 10479611 comes close.

AC DELCO	323-375, 323-408
ARROWHEAD	SNK0033
CARGO	110604, 113435
DELCO	10461453, 10465015, 10479611, 1998409
J & N	410-12149
LESTER	6541, 6598
NIKKO	0-23000-1940
NIKKO DENKI	02-23-1017
WAI	50-8433

And regarding their feedback, I hear ya my friend, no doubt on that I always review the feedback on fleabay.... it's rather good feedback. 2 neg out of well over 800 pos. that's the definition of above good in my humble opinion. I was able to find a positive feedback specifically on that item number by a buyer who purchased within the past month and left their positive feedback "just as described fast shipping thanks" on that specific starter listing. So that says good to me additionally.


So hopefully someone can simply chime in here and recommend a new replacement. Here are the numbers from the starter:
etched into the starter is: 1109563 3E 6 DELCO REMY
an orange sticker looks to be ACdelco: 323 375 95 A and 10496887
from my research this old DD is ... 4.5Kw .. 10 teeth .. 24v .. clockwise rotation

really, since I don't have the knowledge and years of experience, was hoping someone with the knowledge could help me here. With this old DD starter with these specs and PN numbers, would the new RD replacement equivalent be this item I've found on fleabay? item # 171214725020 .... I'm just guessing but the ACDelco 323-375 says to me it will work. But again I'm not seasonally experienced and grovel at the feet of the supreme masters of SS who can assist. As I humbly acknowledge that I'm just taking an educated guess. Maybe I'm thinking too deeply into it, I don't know, but I don't want to get beat with a wooden spoon by my wife by spending money on the wrong part. Hillbilly has a starter for $225 and I'll be ****d if I can afford to spend 100 bucks more than this fleabay starter at 100 bucks and still not know if either one is right. But looks to me like hillbilly is selling the exact same 28T upgrade new starter for 125 bucks more than the same one I just found on fleabay for 97 bucks... ya see what I mean. .... And don't even get me started with autoparts stores. When I replaced my Alts. I bought 3 new Alts all wrong, none of them were right, until it took a seasoned mechanic who owned one of these trucks who figured out that I'm running K30 Alts. my Pass bracket is not the typical bracket to accomedate the different Alt that is typically in these m1009s. So.... I leave it in your seasoned hands please. thanks.

 

[edpdx]

OTWPeck, Here is a link to starter woes I got help with. I ended up trying 4 starters, before I got where I am today. My M1009 starts strong, and nearly 100% reliability.

I pulled the starter than came in my purchase of the Blazer- it was 12 volt. and a brace was missing. This may have helped damage my flexplate?

After 30 or so times pulling and replacing the starters, I ended up with a 24volt Wilson that I ordered through o'reilly. It cost more, but if you hate R&R'ing starters that weigh a ton, a reliable starter, fresh wiring, painful installation of requires braces, Doghead relay mod, and a fresh card from Antenna Climber, will put you in good shape the first time.

A couple of things to make this go easier:

Use appropriate bolts for: a. starter brace- it's metric not SAE. (7mm- but don't quote me). b. The starter itself. The two bolts should be replaced when installing a fres sarter. They are dealer parts, and affordable, so don't use parts house substitutes.
Replace the battery cables- at least the one that goes to the starter. Use new 2 or better gauge with hi quality clamps. (I soldered and covered the connections with mil-grade heat shrink tubes from Fry's). The cable I had looked fine with a cleaned-up insulation, but they were corroded inside.
The purple wire can be a PITA to replace, but you should for the same reason as 2 above. I clipped the old connector at the starter solenoid, and then wrapped and taped about 10 feet of BRAIDED chalk line to the end of the purple wire. Search out the purple wire where if passes through the taped bundle in the engine bay- cut a hole in the tape and pull the purple wire until the braided line appears. Now thread the other end of the braided line through the insulation of a new purple strand- I found purple wire online. Tape and fish it through. Clip the original purple wire, and solder and wrap the new section. Retape. Leave the starter end bare for now.
To make the starter R&R way faster in the future- or in the case that you find you have flexplate issues as well. I'd recommend adding pigtails to the starter before installing it. Use 18" of matching battery cable- terminate with an Anderson connector that plugs into the cable that runs to the battery. The other wires can be but spliced to their respective line (purple 18" pigtail attached to starter to the new purple wire to the under dash relay). Solder or butt splice them easily once the starter is installed and tightened in place. The 18" gives you lots of room to make the connection under the vehicle- and then fold, bundle and tape excess wire out of the way. Sounds convoluted, I know, but you'll be glad it saves you from all that monkey -fingering to get the wires connected up to the starter with tiny wrenches that are impossible to wield, on studs that are impossible to see.

Lastly, I have noticed that all of the reman'd starters require a shim or two. Even though they are stamped "DO NOT SHIM". This stamp appears on new cases, but once the starter is rebuilt, and the mounting surface is remilled, a shim is almost a certainty. My Wilson starter came with a fat shim, so you may need to start with a thicker one.

Here's a link to more CUCV starter help: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-Ford-quot-type-remote-starter-solenoid/page1

 

[Tinstar]

Hillbilly is wayyy overpriced on that starter.
A little online searching will find the exact starter for almost half.

Amazon also carries the factory GM starter bracket.
CUCV 24v starters too.

I would recommend having your starter rebuilt.
Sounds like you might only need the solenoid replaced.
Replace cables as needed.
Doghead mod already covered.

Any good alternator and starter shop can rebuild yours.
Price usually depends on what's wrong.
Do not get rid of your Delco starter. It can be rebuilt.

I have a brand new spare starter and will post number and pics tonight.
Its not a Delco.
A brand new one was on the truck when I bought it, so haven't had issues.

 

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

right on, thanks edpdx and tinstar. .... yepp the only part that got burnt was the plastic cap on the solenoid. regarding the shim, when I pulled it off, it was using a pretty thin shim, I kept it, kept my original bracket n all the bolts and all. I did read that I should replace all the bolts and hardware. I read on one of those stickys the gm PNs for those. will be going back to that and copying those PNs to order bolts n stuff. Richard over at FB told me about antenna climber and gave me a company in PA to send the starter too. like you mentioned, guess it all depends on price. looks like I have some phone calls to make. I'd really hate to go through several purchases before getting it right. I simply don't have the time for that, winter is coming. I don't think I have an issues with flex plate, my starter was bolted up surely when I looked up in there the teeth looked great also on the starter too.

unfortunately, while screwing around with my starter after removing it, trying to get the cap off, I broke the bottom wire that was clipped to the backside of the cap. would be nice if I could simply replace that solenoid on the top, cause I agree, the only thing wrong with it is the cap burnt up and the metal clip on the starter cable was corroded at the starter end of the cable. I do believe was possibly part of the cause of my starting issues. but narrowing down using the test procedures, I came to the conclusion that the control card was bad, cause I was getting the thump as the relay engaged running through the glow plug tests and all. just put new GPs in. anyway thanks a bunch guys. really appreciate the help, big league!

 

[Tinstar]

You can replace just the solenoid.
Just make sure it's 24v.
Should be a shop in your area that you can drop off for rebuild, instead of shipping it.
Yellowpages or online search will tell.


Amazon also sells factory GM starter bolts for a really good price.
As mentioned, do not reuse them.

 

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

thanks tinstar. looking up those amazon bolts now. and Alt / starter shops in the area. Also have a contact here I purchased parts from in the past looking into stuff for me too. yep really wasn't enthused about shipping a starter either.

 

[Tinstar]

Shippings fine, just pricey.
Find a shop close to you. I prefer face to face if I can.
That way you can build a relationship with them.

At some point you will need your alternators rebuilt and you can use the same shop.
Assuming your happy with the shops work.

The solenoid is usually the part that fails first.
Get a spare

Don't forget the heat shield.
Not needed now but will be in summer.

 

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

solenoid from GM. PN 1114531. napa ... guy says this thing is for 24v or 12v ... it's only about 16 bucks. ... seems offly too good to be true. he is calling Wilson to double check... but he said it comes up for my 27MT. any thoughts?

 

[OuttaTheWayPECK]

yep shield is still there. regarding the Alts. yepp been there already. bought 2 brand new Alts months ago, they've been going strong since. still have my old Alts and plan on getting those rebuilt when money allows it.

 

[Tinstar]

solenoid from GM. PN 1114531. napa ... guy says this thing is for 24v or 12v ... it's only about 16 bucks. ... seems offly too good to be true. he is calling Wilson to double check... but he said it comes up for my 27MT. any thoughts?

Its either 24v or 12v.......not both.
The starter shop will/should have them in stock.
It might not be GM, but should be decent quality.
Have not used NAPA ones.
Truckers, etc don't like their equipment down any more than you do.

 

[Tinstar]

yep shield is still there. regarding the Alts. yepp been there already. bought 2 brand new Alts months ago, they've been going strong since. still have my old Alts and plan on getting those rebuilt when money allows it.

Good you kept the old ones.
Hard to find now.
I also bought new ones. Had originals rebuilt and installed them back on truck.
Now the new ones are the spares.