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Looking for a simple 1,5" - 2,5" Lift Kit for the M1008 / K30

TM1008

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I am looking for a simple way to lift my '85er M1008 max. 2" or 2,5".
Because I would like to assemble 315/75/R16 tires, without cut the fenders.

I drive mainly street, terrain rather 2 to 3 times a year in an off-road park.

I thought to mount on the front longer shackles and rear blocks.
But I do not really like something.
Very many kits are from 1988 and thus not for my pickup.

Can anybody help me further?
Ideal would be a complete kit :whistle:

Greetings from Germany
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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That small of a lift kind of leaves you in never never land. You could do all new springs, shocks and brake hoses for a bunch of money. You could do ORD 1 inch add a leaf with the ORD FUSH kit and longer shackles in the front and the ORD 2.5 inch rear shackle flip. DIY4x has the same basic kits as ORD but the price is less. I am not personally sure on DIY4x quality though. There are also about 5 other combinations of things you could do all over the internet.

The tire size you listed is what the H2 trucks came with. Depending on your truck and how your front axle is positioned. H2 rims and tires might just bolt on with no issue. I write your truck because every one of mine has the front axle just a little bit different front to back spacing as the other.

I would suggest getting the rims and tires you want first. Put them on and see if you can get full turn lock to lock on the front without rubbing. If not, pick up the truck at the bumper and see how far you have to go to get lock to lock. The rears will clear without out doing anything as long as you aren't flexing the heck out of it.
 

kblazer87

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Skyjacker, BDS, tuff country, rancho, superlift, Procomp, ...
Most of the suspension lift companies should have what you are looking for. Using 1985 k30 2.5 inch lift kit will probably bring up more hits than using cucv, m1008, etcetera.
 

Drock

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Quick, cheap, easy, and better springs is the skyjacker kit. ORD makes really good stuff, but it's a lot more work and mite cost a little more. Also they're 2.5" shackle flip kit ands up being more like 4".
 

TM1008

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First thank you for the many suggestions.

Unfortunately, I have not understood Barrman so completely, sorry ... is my bad english :(


The skyjacket set is a bit too expensive, but it is certainly the cheaper set.


Currently I have 285/75 / R16 tires mounted on the original rims.
Would like to install a number larger to have a little less speed on the transmission.

As previously understood, the shackles at the front and the blocks at the rear are the best solution.
And I find it with ORD.

Are there smaller lift kits than 2.5 in.?
1.5 or 2 in. Would be enough for me, I think.
 

Barrman

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Sorry if I was confusing. I didn't mean to be. Let me try again.

As pointed out by me and others since my first attempt. There are several companies that make lift kits which include springs, shocks and new brake hoses. All of which are required to do a lift safely. However, they can be costly. But, they are the get everything you want solution to your question.

Everything else is a product for the front and another product for the rear. Some work good together and some don't. ORD is one company that makes several different options for both front and rear. DIY4x is another.

I suggested you find the wheels and tires you want to run first because the solid front axle Chevy trucks were built with a very wide tolerance when it came to component locations. Many of us consider it to be sloppy building. Whatever you call it. The front axle could be perfectly centered in the fender opening on both sides or it could be front or back of center. Each side could be different even. This could be from the factory or it could be from worn out or damaged parts.

The passenger front fender metal closest to the cab is where you are most likely to have the tire contact the fender when turning to the right. Each combination of wheels and tires will be different due to back spacing and tire design. If you get the wheels and tires you want first, put them on and see if they contact. Then you will know if you even have to do a lift of any kind. If they don't contact, leave it stock.

They most likely will with 315 tires though. How much lift will you need? That was also a question you asked. With the wheels and tires you want to run mounted on the truck. Measure from the center of the bumper to a concrete surface on the ground. Start lifting the frame up until the tires clear and measure again. This new measurement minus your original measurement is the minimum amount of lift you will need.

All of the above is dealing with the front axle. The rear will clear 315 tires no problem. However, you want the truck level so it will also have to be raised. While holding the front of the truck where it needs to be, do the same with the rear. Get that measurement and then check to make sure your front is still high enough. That should get you started.

Or, you could just cut the fenders some. Front and rear openings of both front fenders will allow 315 tires to clear without a lift of any kind. You wrote you didn't want to do that so I only mention it as a last resort option.

Hopefully, that is easier to understand.
 

Drock

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With a 33" tire your going to need 2.5" lift for proper clearance with no rubbing. Besides it just looks better.:driver:
 

Sharecropper

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Why not use a set of ORD's 1" Zero Rates with a simple body lift? This would be relatively fast, easy, and inexpensive, and circumvent the higher cost and effort for suspension work.

Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Why not use a set of ORD's 1" Zero Rates with a simple body lift? This would be relatively fast, easy, and inexpensive, and circumvent the higher cost and effort for suspension work.

Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
This is a viable solution. If it were my truck I would limit the body lift to about an inch. That gives you 2" total and might be just enough. I've run 33" tires without a lift but stuck with narrow wheels.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
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Location
Denver, CO
I'd just like to state that diy4x stuff is phenomenal. I have quite a few pieces from them as well as ruffstuff specialties and both companies make well made beefy products.

I have an m1009 but I have a 2" lift using front springs from ORD and a zero lift shackle flip with long shackles in the rear. You could easily do a 2.5" shackle flip out back and would probably be easier. I also have 315/75/16 bfg ko2's with 4.5" backspacing 8" wheels and I had to really hack away at the fenders by the cab. With the same lift and 33" tires I had zero clearance issues.
 

Jozseph

Member
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Location
New York
This is a viable solution. If it were my truck I would limit the body lift to about an inch. That gives you 2" total and might be just enough. I've run 33" tires without a lift but stuck with narrow wheels.
FWIW.............

LMC sells 3" body lift kits for less than $200.00

Have not use it, just looked at it.

See: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=58

zone offroad has;

"Universal 3500 Pickup Chevy 1986 Body Lift Parts"

from 1 1/4" to 3"

See: http://zoneoffroad.com/display?ma=9&yr=1986&mo=276&ca=95&un=1

ORD has a 1" lift kits

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/oneinchlift.htm


Regards
 
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