Frame question??

[Uberlandwerks]

Does anyone know where/ if there is a chassis identification number on the LMTV 1078s?

 

[porkysplace]

Does anyone know where/ if there is a chassis identification number on the LMTV 1078s?

[h=1]LMTV M1078 ID Number[/h]

 

[jesusgatos]

Have a 1079 here and would not hesitate to remove that C-channel subframe and add wheelwells/drivetrain clearance. No big deal. A lot of these guys don't like modifying military trucks, and seem to think that it's impossible to improve on anything designed/built by the OEM's.

If you want to put a custom camper on a 3-point mount, think one of the best ways to do that would be to make a tray with a 5th wheel kingpin on the bottom of it, use a tractor 5th wheel plate as the main mount. and then secure the rear corners to the rear shackle mounts.

 

[expeditionnw]

interesting thread, and one I will be watching. I have a 1078 and plan on either lowering the original bed, or removing it completely and replacing it with a custom bed to achieve a lower bed height. I believe the extra channel is there simply to add clearance for tires and other misc add-ons.

 

[coachgeo]

interesting thread, and one I will be watching. I have a 1078 and plan on either lowering the original bed, or removing it completely and replacing it with a custom bed to achieve a lower bed height. I believe the extra channel is there simply to add clearance for tires and other misc add-ons.

As has been discussed in other threads.. the C channel appears to be a STRUCTURAL MEMBER for the bed to carry the amount of weight it is designed. For example the M1079 has a similar channel below the large box. And yes it ends up improving clearance also. For example if you remove it then reinstall the bed, you would have to have modified the battery box because you could not remove the top. Also you would need to modify bed to put in wheel wells. Possibly other changes as well.

BUTTT... that being said...... how much weight will you ever put back there might dictate that if you do the above items you would be fine. No one has done it yet. Person bought mine from had explored the idea.

see first page and half of below thread for more info

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...LED-(removing-rail-from-under-bed)&highlight=

 

[expeditionnw]

I read that thread. sound like a lot of self proclaimed experts from the school of "it came that way so its the best".

the C channel appears to be a STRUCTURAL MEMBER for the bed to carry the amount of weight it is designed

I wonder how the rest of the Medium-Heavy duty trucks ever get down the road ok without an 8" stack on top of the 12" frame rail. The argument that it needs to be there for the weight capacity holds no merit. the truck is "rated" for 2.25 tons, or 5k lbs. my F350 pickup is also rated for 5k lbs, yet it has an 8" frame. Using the logic on this thread, How is that possible? With the frame strength this LMTV has, it should haul 30-40k. But of course the springs wont hold that, so we are back to the question of how much frame is needed to haul 5k lbs?

 

[Duckworthe]

expeditionnw I like your comment. The older trucks only came green/black camo pattern (someone will say "no they didn't!) If you change the color you have already altered the truck and it's load carrying capacity. I painted mine white, so it should stop running and tip over any minute! Of course I'm just joking. What ever happened to the thought of "DO what ever you want to do." If you want to make your truck 20 foot high, add or remove a rail, and max out the gross weight, nock yourself out. However, whatever you decide to do just be ready to take responsibility for the results that come from your decision making. Remove the rail and give it a go. You might be onto something. Most of this was meant as a joke. If it hurt anyone's feelings, ask someone for a hug. LMAO

 

[coachgeo]

.... The argument that it needs to be there for the weight capacity holds no merit. the truck is "rated" for 2.25 tons, or 5k lbs. my F350 pickup is also rated for 5k lbs, yet it has an 8" frame. Using the logic on this thread, How is that possible? With the frame strength this LMTV has, it should haul 30-40k. But of course the springs won't hold that, so we are back to the question of how much frame is needed to haul 5k lbs?

Believe the 5,000 lb figure is misleading. While as you suggest structurally it is designed to carry significantly more for sure then why the 5000 rating..... seems others have come to the conclusion that the 5000 figure is more of an OFF ROAD rating that takes into account other factors such as how much weight makes it to easy to roll over. This conclusion seems to have merit. Thus that 5,000 figure may well not be derived same way it would be for an F350 etc. and thusly it becomes an apples to oranges comparison.

Im with you in that I do not think it "needs" that C channel structure for most of our purposes beyond raising the bed above Tranny, Tires, Battery Box etc. I say go for it. Drop the bed and have fun.

 

[Rebuilder]

I can't comment on whether it's a good idea or not because I'm still building but I cut mine off because my camper is removable and the rails interfered with the waste water tanks which hang below the box. The camper is mounted with two hitch balls in front and a 5th wheel hitch in the back. I built my own manual jacks and can unload it in about 20 minutes.

 

[Duckworthe]

That looks like another great way to do it. Love to see everyone's thoughts and methods on this site.

 

[1951M1078]

I'm going to leave it.But the box I will use is from a box van and has a 6" C on it. But that is going to come off and I will add (4) 3" x 3" box to take its place. Something like this. The box is 8' w x 14'6" L x 7'9" T. this will give me a max height of 12'1".

 

[Duckworthe]

Mine is right at 12 foot 2 inch to the top of ac

 

[Rebuilder]

Something to keep in mind for those thinking about removing the upper rails is that the trans/transfer case also sticks up above the main frame rails so even if you moved the battery box, as mentioned above, you'd still have that to deal with.

 

[expeditionnw]

Something to keep in mind for those thinking about removing the upper rails is that the trans/transfer case also sticks up above the main frame rails so even if you moved the battery box, as mentioned above, you'd still have that to deal with.

That is interesting. perhaps a custom bed is the way to go then. I am more partial to that anyway given the features I want.

 

[coachgeo]

Something to keep in mind for those thinking about removing the upper rails is that the trans/transfer case also sticks up above the main frame rails so even if you moved the battery box, as mentioned above, you'd still have that to deal with.

Glad your reinforced that. Mentioned it around 6 post earlier but it often gets overlooked.

 

[MaiNiaK]

I plan to separate my subframe from the main frame. Slightly bend (or cut and weld) the attachment plates, to help align the subframe back in place when it comes down. Add heavy duty hinges to the backend and a 15k lb hydrolic cylinder. Making it a dump bed. We (myself and my heavy equipment mechanic friend) may add some reinforcement to high stress areas like the hinge point and hydrolic lift location. The subframe on these trucks almost looks purpose built for this, leading me to believe it's for load support.
My truck will still look stock in the down position, but this will make moving compost or gravel so much easier. I bought this truck for our farm which is on the side of a mountain and at times our driveway is rough at best. Thus far I've carried 3 cord of stacked firewood, 5 yards of gravel, 9 yards of compost and 1,200 gallons of water with it. It's very capable of carrying 10,000 lbs as long as the weight is distributed evenly and the center of gravity is kept as low as possible.

 

[Jbulach]

I wonder how the rest of the Medium-Heavy duty trucks ever get down the road ok without an 8" stack on top of the 12" frame rail.

I cant think of any tuck, other than a factory pickup truck bed, that has a bed or box that is not designed this way?
The only way to find out what the bed frame rails do for your application, is to remove them, then report back with how you mount the bed and how well it holds up and behaves. Just don't consider welding it to the truck frame!

 

[coachgeo]

I can't comment on whether it's a good idea or not because I'm still building but I cut mine off because my camper is removable and the rails interfered with the waste water tanks which hang below the box. The camper is mounted with two hitch balls in front and a 5th wheel hitch in the back. I built my own manual jacks and can unload it in about 20 minutes.

Any updates on this build?

PS... pics that go with this quote is at https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?154910-Frame-question&p=1969474&viewfull=1#post1969474

 

[Rebuilder]

Any updates on this build?

PS... pics that go with this quote is at https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?154910-Frame-question&p=1969474&viewfull=1#post1969474

No big updates... I've been working on the truck more than the camper. Mainly building a flatbed with a slide out deck for the camper and prepping the cab for paint. Once that's done I'll be concentrating on getting the camper done.

 

[coachgeo]

No big updates... I've been working on the truck more than the camper. Mainly building a flatbed with a slide out deck for the camper and prepping the cab for paint. Once that's done I'll be concentrating on getting the camper done.

View attachment 695781View attachment 695780

An elevated crank up camper with a pull out overlook porch.... sweet. Smart idea... you know to keep the Tigers and Lions safely down below you