Power for Accessories?

[JAGWAH]

New M998A1 owner from San Diego - glad to be here and I have a power for accessories question.
I'm looking to power a few things up front, such as a USB charger for my phone (don't want to be stuck and a dead phone) and maybe an interior LED, backup camera, etc.

What's the best way to install power for devices where the radio rack sits? I can certainly install an inverter in the battery box, and run a wire. But this does mean a device left on would drain the battery...

What if I want to keep things 24V, is pulling directly from the battery the only method? Does it make sense to leverage the slave battery port?

Any way to tap into the circuit for the lights, to have one switch to worry about (lights and accessories)? Bad idea?

Crazy thought: Any power available at the diagnostic port near the parking break? I would assume minimal if any was available here.

I tried searching through the previous threads and TM, but no real answers to these questions...

Thanks! Chris (aka JAGWAH - Just a Guy With A Humvee).

 

[juanprado]

Pulse tech makes a "pulse distribution panel" with weatherproof 12V and 24V fused taps. It was specifically made for the HMMWV and can sit in the battery box where the first aid kit goes. It also pulses the batteries to desulfate them. It is major big $ OE but tons have been surplussed through GL and can be found on epay. I just picked up another I think for $40 shipped from a vendor in Ohio.

http://www.pulsetech.net/PCMDS-PulseTech-Pulse-Charge-Monitor-Distribution-System-7377.aspx

The ones on ebay just have the box. If you wan the one with the solar panel maybe $150. Solar panel is not required for install. The battery test panel is optional and not required either for install. I do have an extra battery test panel if interested going this route. Just send pm if you do.

 

[JAGWAH]

Thank you Juanprado. This is exactly what I was looking for.

PM sent.

Chris.

 

[NormB]

New M998A1 owner from San Diego - glad to be here and I have a power for accessories question.
I'm looking to power a few things up front, such as a USB charger for my phone (don't want to be stuck and a dead phone) and maybe an interior LED, backup camera, etc.

What's the best way to install power for devices where the radio rack sits? I can certainly install an inverter in the battery box, and run a wire. But this does mean a device left on would drain the battery...

What if I want to keep things 24V, is pulling directly from the battery the only method? Does it make sense to leverage the slave battery port?

Any way to tap into the circuit for the lights, to have one switch to worry about (lights and accessories)? Bad idea?

Crazy thought: Any power available at the diagnostic port near the parking break? I would assume minimal if any was available here.

I tried searching through the previous threads and TM, but no real answers to these questions...

Thanks! Chris (aka JAGWAH - Just a Guy With A Humvee).

Look at my posts in "What have you done with your HMMWV today."

I actually fabricated a (somewhat bulky) switch box and used 24 volt Marine switch panel I got off amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_s...ps&field-keywords=Marine+switch+panel+24+volt

should show you a good selection of them. I would've gotten green, but didn't need six switches or have room - I thought - to put the box where I have the 4-gang box now.

 

[formula223]

Search "pulse distribution panel" on epay. There are two listed for $14.95 plus $14.95 shipping.

 

[orgnal]

New M998A1 owner from San Diego - glad to be here and I have a power for accessories question.
I'm looking to power a few things up front, such as a USB charger for my phone (don't want to be stuck and a dead phone) and maybe an interior LED, backup camera, etc.

What's the best way to install power for devices where the radio rack sits? I can certainly install an inverter in the battery box, and run a wire. But this does mean a device left on would drain the battery...

What if I want to keep things 24V, is pulling directly from the battery the only method? Does it make sense to leverage the slave battery port?

Any way to tap into the circuit for the lights, to have one switch to worry about (lights and accessories)? Bad idea?

Crazy thought: Any power available at the diagnostic port near the parking break? I would assume minimal if any was available here.

I tried searching through the previous threads and TM, but no real answers to these questions...

Thanks! Chris (aka JAGWAH - Just a Guy With A Humvee).

I would suggest tapping into the horn circuit. It is powered only when the switch is turned to run position. You don't have to worry about forgetting to turn a switch off and draining the battery.

McReddy